This is topic Car needs to got to a test only smog. in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by 1993 GT (Member # 3104) on :
 
I finally found a hook up for smog and then he tells me that my car was randomly chosen for a test only smog station. He said I need to take off all my ilegal parts. My question is what parts do I need to take off?

306
Cobra intake
E-303 cam
longtubes, offroad H-pipe
edelbrock 6037 heads
30lb injetors with matching mass air.
150 Shot of NOS
BBK CAI

I know the longtubes, Hpipe,NOS,BBK CAI, all have to go.What else can you think off? Also when it comes to the visual what do they check?
 
Posted by Black94 5.0 (Member # 655) on :
 
The E303, Cobra intake and Edelbrock heads should all pass... [patriot]
 
Posted by Black94 5.0 (Member # 655) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Black94 5.0:
The E303, Cobra intake and Edelbrock heads should all pass... [patriot]

EDIT~Your car might run rich with those injectors though...Your combo should only need 24#s....
 
Posted by 1993 GT (Member # 3104) on :
 
Should I switch the injectors?
 
Posted by onesicklx (Member # 285) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by 1993 GT:
Should I switch the injectors?

just get another stock motor...thats what i would do....
 
Posted by mtbaughs (Member # 4052) on :
 
You can get a chip burned through Apex for those 30# injectors. The car will run fat with them without chip help.

[ April 12, 2004, 08:32 PM: Message edited by: mtbaughs ]
 
Posted by Jimbo (Member # 1456) on :
 
You might want to start with a pre-test before ripping everthing off, see where your at tailpipe wise. Unless you have CARB EO numbers for them, like you said the CAI, long tubes, nitrous(suprisingly allot of NOS's Dry kits have Carb #'s), and h-pipe would fail visual. The cam is legal anyway, the intake SHOULD be considered stock replacement(tell them to consult their smog check manual, appendix K-5, if they want to fail visual on the cobra intake), as for the injectors I would be suprised if the tech noticed anything abnormal unless you have aftermarket fuel rails or something. This may sound wierd but if you want a good, honest, cheap smog check take it to the state referee. Most of them really know whats up or at least can take the time to check out your aftermarket parts, unlike most private shops who just freak out at the sight of mods. I would highly recommend the referee at the Alameda referee site, very honest and through. You can make an appointment at 800-622-7733, its only $38.25 too! Just tell them you have some mods on the car and want a honest smog check. Hope this helps!
 
Posted by 1993 GT (Member # 3104) on :
 
Thnaks for all the help Jimbo I'll make an appointment tomorrow. I dont think I sould have to switch to a stock motor, I find it easier to remove the shit I have on now.
 
Posted by 87 Saleen (Member # 1549) on :
 
That bbk intake doesnt' have a carb number. The mac one doesn though...
 
Posted by shade- (Member # 298) on :
 
I think you'll be more than fine with the 30# injectors. I passed with 30# injectors on a stock motor in '03(stock intake) and GT-40 heads with flying colors, idle HC was zero in fact, and the 2500 rpm test was under 10% of the limit.

I'm going to pass this month with the same 30# injectors and a spare stock motor again, be happy to show anyone the smog dyno #'s [Razz]
 
Posted by 88DroptopGT (Member # 2535) on :
 
Take off the longtubes and ORH and replace with shorties and catted pipes, hide nitrous accessories. I heard of some people passing with 30# injectors if everything else motor-wise had emission-friendly mods. Do a $50 pre-test to see if you need a chip to lean it out, you might pass. Otherwise, just find some guy selling 19 #'s inj. really cheap and swap those in. I would also have CARB #'s for the BBK just in case the visual guy was a stickler. Make sure you have your smog pump connected also.

Cover all bases to save time and another $50-70 for a re-test. Pre-test at least.
 
Posted by Jdub07 (Member # 2728) on :
 
the test only station is the same as the dyno. the only difference is they tend to be more strick with the visual inspection part...but as for the dyno/sniffer part its all the same across the board. I'd be more worried about the visual inspection. Test only stations have nothing to gain or lose by failing you or passing you. Test only stations suck. like suggested get a pretest done first...it can really save you some $$$ in the end.
 
Posted by Jimbo (Member # 1456) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Jdub07:
the test only station is the same as the dyno. the only difference is they tend to be more strick with the visual inspection part...but as for the dyno/sniffer part its all the same across the board. I'd be more worried about the visual inspection. Test only stations have nothing to gain or lose by failing you or passing you. Test only stations suck. like suggested get a pretest done first...it can really save you some $$$ in the end.

Test only's are no more or less strict than a test and repair smog station, it all depends on the smog tech and or the management of the shop. The state setup Test Only's to benefit the customer actually, because they cant repair the car they have no reson make you fail(which test and repair stations have been accused of doing when they need business)
 




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