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Author
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Topic: Help me hook
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QWICK46
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Member # 1843
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posted
 
 
Alright, the time has come for me to think about traction. It seems like every time I head out to the track, people are telling me to get tires, and I tell them that I can't see spending the money on tires when my current factory tires still have plenty of tread.
Anyway, I was checking the tires last weekend, and they are starting to look worn. So, I'm thinking about going with a set of 15" Draglites, 3.5" in front with normal street radials, and 8" in the rear, probably with BFG drag radials. I want to keep my factory rims & tires for now for wet weather, but am thinking about possibly running my track tires full time come this spring. I've been told that the 15" Weld rims will work with a spacer, but I'm thinking about intalling longer studs for safety.
Does anyone know where I should go to get studs installed, and if I should be thinking about other upgrades to make it safe? I still have the factory control arms in place, and was thinking about swaping them out and getting the torque boxes welded. Would it be best to do that first, or can I get by just getting the tires and then saving for the arms & welding?
I talked with the Cheif Financial Officer last night (read wife), and we approved putting my year-end bonus toward this, which I won't see until about the 31st, so I have a little time to mull this over, plan it out.
Basically, any suggestions that might help me out would be welcome.
Thanks in advance,
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Michael
'02 GT ~ sold for a Big, Slow Dodge Ram
'03 SV650S
'04 R1100S ~ The daily driver
Posts: 243 | Registered: Sep 2002
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BlackNGold
CaliforniaFords.com
Moderator
Member # 655
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posted
Get your torque boxes welded first, THEN get some tires.....Better safe than sorry....
If your gonna have a seperate rim and you're keeping your stock wheels, then I think you should buy a full slick or atleast ana ET street tire...Fuck drag radials if you have another set of rims!....Drag radials are more directed to people how DO NOT have another set of wheels and have to drive to the track..
Good luck!...
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-SLOWER TRAFFIC KEEP RIGHT-
Posts: 5132 | From: Bay Area, CA | Registered: Dec 2001
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Black94 5.0:
Get your torque boxes welded first, THEN get some tires.....Better safe than sorry....
Dumb question, don't mean to hijack the thread, but where are the torque boxes? I'm assuming they're in the rear of the car?
[ December 18, 2003, 08:39 AM: Message edited by: wilit ]
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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KCmustangboy
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Member # 1927
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by wilit:
quote:
Originally posted by Black94 5.0:
Get your torque boxes welded first, THEN get some tires.....Better safe than sorry....
Dumb question, don't mean to hijack the thread, but where are the torque boxes? I'm assuming they're in the rear of the car?
your control arms lead to them. ![[Wink]](wink.gif)
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03 Cobra... Factory long block, with Whipple and AED tune... 812rwhp 10.0s @ 140... almost there!
WWW.AEDHP.COM
Posts: 1691 | From: San Jose, CA | Registered: Oct 2002
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QWICK46
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Member # 1843
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Black94 5.0:
Get your torque boxes welded first, THEN get some tires.....Better safe than sorry....
If your gonna have a seperate rim and you're keeping your stock wheels, then I think you should buy a full slick or atleast ana ET street tire...Fuck drag radials if you have another set of rims!....Drag radials are more directed to people how DO NOT have another set of wheels and have to drive to the track..
Good luck!...
Yeah probably good advice. I know low 13s and perhaps high 12s are in my future, and I'm getting antsy to see those time slips. Getting the welding done sooner than later will put them off a little longer, but your probably right, better safe than sorry. Thanks for the advice.
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Michael
'02 GT ~ sold for a Big, Slow Dodge Ram
'03 SV650S
'04 R1100S ~ The daily driver
Posts: 243 | Registered: Sep 2002
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TangerineLX
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Member # 3046
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posted
I agree with welding your torque boxes up first. I highly agree with Black94 5.0 when he said(it's better to be safe than sorry) espcially with any type of drag slicks. Just from my own stupidity I as well wanted to throw on my new bought prostars-slicks and worry about suspention later. About six months later with only around 20 passes down the track I tweaked my upper boxes really bad which resulted in more work trying to bang them back into shape.
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*2000 expedition
*1991 mustang
*1971 Toyota Corolla/5.0project
*2007 Toyota Avalon
*2005 H.D. Road King
*1971 H.D. Shovster
*2008 H.D. Nightster
Posts: 97 | From: Sac. Cal. | Registered: Jul 2003
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chosen1
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Member # 1906
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posted
The only Drag Radial worth getting is the Mickey Thompson DR; and those wont be available until February.
Get Hoosier QTP's (Quick Time Pros). Those hook better and have less section width than an ET Street, and they arent terrible in the rain. Those are perfect for street driving and work great at the track. With 30-32 lbs of air, they are almost as stiff as a radial and will last just as long if not longer than a BFG DR.
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1967 Fastback. Should go 10's -but doesn't
1993 Cobra
2003 Suzuki SVS
1966 Coupe -For Sale
Posts: 2205 | Registered: Sep 2002
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