T O P I C R E V I E W
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gercolla1
Member # 3068
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posted
My car was having an idle problem. Most of the time it takes a second or two for the rpm's to drop back to idle when I'm cruisin and I throw it into neutral. I removed my c&l mass air meter and started the car w/o it. As soon as I raise the mass air meter back in place to the air inlet tube, the idle starts to race up and drops once I remove it. All I did afterwards was put my stock one back in and now it runs good. What was exactly wrong with my c&l? I want to repair it. BTW, my car is 98% stock. Thanks again people.
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Black94 5.0
Member # 655
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posted
Send your C&L back and have it re-calibrated....Make sure you tell them about the 2% of mods that you have on the car....
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94gt
Member # 3060
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posted
are c&l's common to this type of problem? ive seen a few posts like this before!
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87 Saleen
Member # 1549
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posted
pro-m's are the same story
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94gt
Member # 3060
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posted
damn! any suggestions on a rock solid unit?
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Yung Than
Member # 728
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posted
The CL's are fine, if you use an IST air adjuster or Pro-M optimizer to adjust the air voltage. The Pro-M meters are cool too but you'll have to pay like $110 each time to calibrate for bigger mods and different injectors.
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azl
Member # 2112
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posted
My brother had issues with both C&L and Pro-M meters causing idle problems as well as the hanging-idle problem you have while driving. After replacing every sensor on the car and adjusting timing (which improved things slightly), he ended up disconnecting the idle bypass valve from the computer and tuning the car (via throttle screw) to idle at 700 or so. Idle has been rock solid since then.
Basically the computer is now not allowed to meter the air charge anymore because it is incapable of doing it properly since some mod that was installed and is yet to be diagnosed.
Not the real solution but a solution nonetheless. My bet is the real solution is in the form of a $400 TwEECer or similar computer tuner.
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