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Author
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Topic: What upper control arms to get?
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bunchmyfunky
CAFords Drag Racing Mod
Member # 360
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posted
 
 
Im going to be getting some UCA's soon which ones do you recommend and should I get solid or adjustables. I have lakewood lowers allready.
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01 GT 5spd
1.76 12.79@105.49
Posts: 2433 | From: Vacaville | Registered: Jul 2001
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Stimson
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Member # 51
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posted
I'm for getting all the same kind/brand of suspension parts... so get lakewood uppers or stock replacements ![[patriot]](graemlins/patriot.gif)
Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000
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biggmatt
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Member # 1124
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posted
ive got some ground pounder uppers for sale, 50 bucks
Posts: 392 | From: pittsburg | Registered: Apr 2002
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season'd 88
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Member # 169
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posted
I personally would not touch the uppers on a street car, unless it was to remove them.
Posts: 1383 | Registered: Feb 2001
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Primer GR40
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Member # 476
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by season'd 88:
I personally would not touch the uppers on a street car, unless it was to remove them.
![[worship]](graemlins/worship.gif)
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Superdupercharged Cobra
No Transmatic Notch
Posts: 2108 | Registered: Sep 2001
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BlackNGold
CaliforniaFords.com
Moderator
Member # 655
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posted
I'm running the FMS HD uppers....They work hell of a lot better than the stock uppers...My car jumps when I hit 1st to 2nd gear, instead of lighting the tires up, like it used to...My stock uppers had all four mounting bushings split when I pulled them off! ![[Roll Eyes]](rolleyes.gif)
Since I know you drag race your car a lot, I would recommend some adjustable UCA's with sperical bearings at both end...Spherical bearings at both ends completely eliminate urethane bushing deflection during extreme launches...This reduces axle windup, and allows the car to react more quickly...Unlike any hard bushing material, spherical bearings also allow proper articulation of the rear suspension, which reduces torque box damage...
For drag racing, I would choose Steeda's Hardcore heavy-duty UCA's...(Matching lowers too)
***5.0 Mag Aug 03 pg.131:
After the Hardcore upper and lower arms, the sphrical upper bushings, and the antiroll bar were installed the 60-foot time dropped to 1.43 and the et now stands at 11.04 @123***
[ July 30, 2003, 09:30 PM: Message edited by: Black94 5.0 ]
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-SLOWER TRAFFIC KEEP RIGHT-
Posts: 5132 | From: Bay Area, CA | Registered: Dec 2001
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bunchmyfunky
CAFords Drag Racing Mod
Member # 360
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by season'd 88:
I personally would not touch the uppers on a street car, unless it was to remove them.
Who's got a street car ![[Wink]](wink.gif) Unfortunatly I have a clunking noise that is not going away. I have a feeling its the bushings in the uppers.
Black94 thanks for the info. I was thinking about going with the Steeda adj. uppers.
Posts: 2433 | From: Vacaville | Registered: Jul 2001
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John91coupe
CAFords OG
Member # 18
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posted
My advice is to get double adjustable uppers and not just adjustable uppers or non adjustables. With the double adjustables you can set your pinion angle easily by turning the adjust nut without removing the arm at one end. Regular adjustables require removal of one end of the arm to make adjustments. Brand and bushing type depends on what your goal is. If you are looking for maximum effect on launch capability then all spherical ends are the best. If you are looking for a compromise then poly bushings are the way to go. Either way, you should have the torque boxes welded up if you haven't already done so. Road noise and ride harshness will be increased once the factory rubber bushings are removed.
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D-2R ProCharged R302 331
1.410 60 ft.
5.784 @ 122.92 1/8
8.953 @ 155.08
MM&FF Feature June 2003
Posts: 1361 | From: Grass Valley, CA | Registered: Sep 2000
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turbo302
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Member # 2786
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posted
John is absolutely right about his comment about spiral bushings or urethane, if you're going to be looking for that real mean 60ft, I'd defintely go with the control arms with spiral bushings (urethane as a second choice), the spiral will hold up under the shock load of the launch better (and not put the rear in a bind) than urethane. Either way you go, if you change your control arms from the stock factory ones, you are going to need to get your torque boxes fully welded and the lowers plated (I'm talking from experience). If you do not get them fully welded, the urethane or spiral bushings will destroy the boxes over time and you may wreck your car. I did, I had a '90 Mustang LX that I ran low 12's with had south side lowers and the south sides destroyed my lower torque boxes causing me to loose control of the car cruising to work one day. If you need torque box work done, let me know. I can weld them up the right way.
turbo302
10.20/133
Big Boy Racing Fabrication
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turbo302
10.20/133
Big Boy Racing Fabrication
www.bigboyracing.com
Posts: 83 | From: bay area | Registered: May 2003
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PumaFiveOh
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Member # 2322
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posted
Well I'm no "Expert" but MM is and this is what they have to say:
"Maximum Motorsports has found the Ford Racing Performance Parts rear upper control arms to be the best choice for your Mustang. These arms have rubber bushings which allow proper articulation of the Mustang's 4-link rear suspension. Part number M-5500-A comes with bushings at the chassis end which are approximately twice as stiff as the productions bushings."
Plus they test the crap out of everything and I'm pretty certain they know what they are doing.
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"Pain is temporary, Pride is forever!"
"The object of war is not to die for your country, but to make the other bastard die for his."
-Patton
Posts: 718 | From: Bay Area! | Registered: Jan 2003
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Jeff S
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Member # 371
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by PumaFiveOh:
Well I'm no "Expert" but MM is and this is what they have to say:
"Maximum Motorsports has found the Ford Racing Performance Parts rear upper control arms to be the best choice for your Mustang. These arms have rubber bushings which allow proper articulation of the Mustang's 4-link rear suspension. Part number M-5500-A comes with bushings at the chassis end which are approximately twice as stiff as the productions bushings."
Plus they test the crap out of everything and I'm pretty certain they know what they are doing.
Unfortunetely they DO NOT know what they are doing when it comes to going down the 1/4 mile which is what bunchmyfunky likes to do.
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'90 Mustang LX: 8.53 @ 157.92 w/ 1.33 60' on DR's
'10 ZR1: FOR SALE
'14 E63 S: RENNtech ECU
'04 Gallardo: UGR TTG
Posts: 2121 | From: San Jose, CA | Registered: Aug 2001
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Jeff S
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Member # 371
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by st5150:
I'm for getting all the same kind/brand of suspension parts... so get lakewood uppers or stock replacements
Have you ever thought about doing anything using logic?
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'90 Mustang LX: 8.53 @ 157.92 w/ 1.33 60' on DR's
'10 ZR1: FOR SALE
'14 E63 S: RENNtech ECU
'04 Gallardo: UGR TTG
Posts: 2121 | From: San Jose, CA | Registered: Aug 2001
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bunchmyfunky
CAFords Drag Racing Mod
Member # 360
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posted
Thanks for all the input looks like I will be going with double adjustable, battle boxes and some welding. ![[burnout]](graemlins/burnout.gif)
Posts: 2433 | From: Vacaville | Registered: Jul 2001
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mustanggt5091
All I need is.....
Member # 444
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posted
good pick! I went with the HPM Mega Bite ajustables, great quality, havent got to use them yet though ![[Mad]](mad.gif)
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88 GT 357w (SOLD):(
06 Limited Edition R6 !!!!!
Posts: 2353 | From: Fairfield / Santa Rosa , Ca | Registered: Sep 2001
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TriplePLAY
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Member # 948
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by mustanggt5091:
good pick! I went with the HPM Mega Bite ajustables, great quality, havent got to use them yet though
when is the expected date to run??? wassup??
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1996 Mustang GT Vert
Philippians 4:13-
Posts: 332 | From: Bay Area, California | Registered: Feb 2002
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turbo302
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Member # 2786
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posted
You do not need to spend the extra money on battle boxes(they're a pain in the ass to install), just get your boxes fully welded. Why pay the extra money for the boxes when you'll have to weld them anyway, just weld the torque boxes & you will never have a problem.
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turbo302
10.20/133
Big Boy Racing Fabrication
www.bigboyracing.com
Posts: 83 | From: bay area | Registered: May 2003
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season'd 88
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Member # 169
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by turbo302:
You do not need to spend the extra money on battle boxes(they're a pain in the ass to install), just get your boxes fully welded. Why pay the extra money for the boxes when you'll have to weld them anyway, just weld the torque boxes & you will never have a problem.
You are absoulutly correct. Mine were welded up years ago by the late Charlie Bruno. I have beat snot out of my car, and have never had a problem.
Posts: 1383 | Registered: Feb 2001
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mustanggt5091
All I need is.....
Member # 444
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posted
I have battle boxes on my lower boxes( really easy to install!) but only welding up the uppers!
Tripleplay-
Im just waiting on my spherical bushings now and my motor!Hopefully inside a month! Still got a couple parts left to buy ![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
[ August 01, 2003, 11:43 PM: Message edited by: mustanggt5091 ]
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88 GT 357w (SOLD):(
06 Limited Edition R6 !!!!!
Posts: 2353 | From: Fairfield / Santa Rosa , Ca | Registered: Sep 2001
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