This is topic Advice: Pro-M or C&L MAF for sn95? in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners .
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Posted by 94Blackout (Member # 2541) on
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Well, the two perf. parts missing from the engine when I bought it was a CAI and MAF. I picked up a Densecharger (recommended BTW), but now I am deciding what MAF I should use. I didn't have to deal with one much in my 87 (speed density), and when I finally did I was given a kit with a Pro-M, and it worked fine. But it seems most people have C&L in here. Please make a recommendation. Is it worth it to even get a 76mm when I'm runnin a 65mm T/B? Where is the best pricing? Look at my sig and tell me what would suit my current setup best, my first hunch was 73mm C&L.
[ June 06, 2003, 12:37 PM: Message edited by: 94Blackout ]
Posted by Jdub07 (Member # 2728) on
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I was going to go with the 73mm c&l for my 65 mm tb but ended up going with the 76mm. it was my first mod i did when i bought the car and DAMN I could tell a huge difference as soon as I pulled away from my house. I hear Pro M is just as good if not better but in my excperiance the 76mm C&L is great. if you go 73 and need more air later because of future upgrades you'll wish you went 76mm.
Just my .02
Posted by 88gt (Member # 579) on
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If you plan on getting an Apex/RACESystems tune later on you'll want the Pro-M. They'll only tune your car if you have a Pro-M.
Posted by hidnn.o.s. (Member # 1219) on
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Pro M for sure. Many people have the C&L because they are much less expensive.
Posted by Chico Stang (Member # 801) on
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Pro-M
Posted by castor (Member # 2765) on
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quote:
Originally posted by Chico Stang:
Pro-M
Posted by 91 5.0 (Member # 1527) on
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Pro-M
Posted by Red97SVT (Member # 2811) on
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Pro-M.
The C&L costs less because you use your original electronics and use a sampling tube to tune. One example of getting what you pay for.
quote:
If you plan on getting an Apex/RACESystems tune later on you'll want the Pro-M. They'll only tune your car if you have a Pro-M.
I don't think this is necessarilly true. Although Bill definately reccomended the Pro-M over C&L to me. I just don't want anyone thinking they shouldn't call Apex just cuz they have a C&L on their car.
Posted by mustanggt5091 (Member # 444) on
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Pro-M
Posted by Black94 5.0 (Member # 655) on
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I'm running a 75mm Pro-M Bullit on my 94 5.0.....
I had sooooooooo many issues with Pro-M its not funny....I had to send my Pro-M back 3 times for re-calibration and its still wasnt right!!!!....I finally faxed a letter to Jim Gonzales(owner of Pro-M) and he sent my a MAF adjuster (Optimizer) for free....My car runs great now, but knowing what I know about Pro-M, if I buy another MAF it will probably be Ford or C&L...
I can second JDUB07 on his C&L....His car was A LOT faster with the new 76mm and power tube...JDUB07 is also still using the factory air box with a panel type K&N....
Posted by 94Blackout (Member # 2541) on
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So is there an issue with the sampling tube that would make it a hastle or somethin to tune? Using the existing electronics seems like more of an advantage than a disadvantage to me. And with a price difference of 100 bucks, I would like to know what the major advantage is.
Posted by Black94 5.0 (Member # 655) on
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Pro-m 75mm Bullit= $189.95
C&L 76mm with pipe = $269.95
These prices are from Dallas Mustang........www.dallasmustang.com
I know you can get the C&L with a K&N filter and a heat shield....http://www.cnlperformance.com/76mm_94-95cobra.html
If you run a cold air kit with the Pro-m it has to be calibrated for a 45* elbow...The 94-95 75mm Bullits have a set bolt on position and can not be turned to pick up the air from the cold air kit better...
I think you will be happier with a C&L....
Posted by Red97SVT (Member # 2811) on
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The electonics consist of the module (which includes the internal sesnor) that is mounted on the maf. With the C&L you put the original module on the new maf. The "module" is used to read the information (a voltage indicating air flow) from the sensor. This info is used by the computer to determine the pulse width of the injectors. If you need to tune it, you do so by physically adjusting a sampling tube on the sensor. If the injector size is increased or you need to adjust the fuel delivery for some other reason then you would need to adjust the sampling tube to fool the sensor in to seeing an increase or decrease the amount of air flowing through the maf. The problem is, when is it set correctly? This can be determined with the seat of the pants method or Dyno time.
The Pro-M comes with the electronics already calibrated for a given set up. If you want it changed you send for a new calibration. It is normally plug and play. The con here is the time to get a new calibration.
Personally I had a C&L 80 (because it was cheaper) it netted me a whopping 1 hp, over stock, on the dyno. It is in a box in my closet if you would like to but it???
Posted by Black94 5.0 (Member # 655) on
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quote:
Originally posted by Red97SVT:
Personally I had a C&L 80 (because it was cheaper) it netted me a whopping 1 hp, over stock, on the dyno. It is in a box in my closet if you would like to but it???
You only gained 1 rwhp over the stock MAF?..Was your dyno on the same day and on the same dyno?...Did you have a custom chip when you dynoed your stock MAF?...
Posted by 94Blackout (Member # 2541) on
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quote:
Originally posted by Red97SVT:
Personally I had a C&L 80 (because it was cheaper) it netted me a whopping 1 hp, over stock, on the dyno. It is in a box in my closet if you would like to buy it???
What sampling tubes do you have for it, and what would you be askin for it? I currently have 19 pounders, and don't see myself going any higher up, seeing as though this MAF is the last mod I will be doing to the engine (besides a good oil cooler and pump).
Also, 80mm a little big for what I'm running? Or does it not matter because the 65mm T/B?
Posted by Red97SVT (Member # 2811) on
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All I have is the maf. There were no tubes shipped with it from C&L. It is an 80mm for a Cobra mod motor so I don't think your current piping to the intake would fit. Besides, like you said 80mm is a bit big. Probably hurt your performance rather than help.
Posted by Red97SVT (Member # 2811) on
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Oh, yeah the dyno runs were back to back. The motor was basically stock. This is when I first got the car and was just spending $$$ for things I saw in magazines.
Posted by Jdub07 (Member # 2728) on
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I really like how the c&l looks, the easy install and use of stock equipment, the tube looks good and there is no down time for recalibration. I was really leaning toward the 73mm but am happy I went with the 76mm. If you get the meter, tube and k&n you will be pleasantly surprised. Honestly I have no idea how you could only get 1 added hp from the c&l if I remember right the 76mm c&l on a stock motor was like 8-10hp and with mild mods up to 15hp. I would honestly say I gain between 12 and 15 hp when I put mine one.
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