This is topic What type of control arms? in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by 91 5.0 (Member # 1527) on :
 
What type of upper and lower control arms do you guys recomend for a fox body?
 

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Posted by st5150 (Member # 51) on :
 
For drag racing? I'm a big fan of stock suspension + slicks + gears
 

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Posted by 91 5.0 (Member # 1527) on :
 
I have gears and slicks. I pulled a 1.81 60 ft with that and ran a 98 mph trap. The car should pull a much lower 60 ft now that its faster. I want more though. I cant go driving around town on my slicks, and without them, I might as well skip 1st and 2nd gear cause I have no traction.
 

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Posted by st5150 (Member # 51) on :
 
On street tires, stiffer control arms and a stiffer suspension will only "hit" the tires harder on the launch and cause even more spin.
 

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Posted by 91 5.0 (Member # 1527) on :
 
Then what can I do for traction?
 

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Posted by st5150 (Member # 51) on :
 
I've seen locals do well with the Eibach drag spring kit and nitto's on the street.
 

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Posted by 91 5.0 (Member # 1527) on :
 
Anyone else have any input?
 

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Posted by 66 AC COBRA (Member # 904) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by st5150:
On street tires, stiffer control arms and a stiffer suspension will only "hit" the tires harder on the launch and cause even more spin.

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the concept sounds good but i have to disagree
i did control arms on a basically stock 97 gt
stock it could spin the tires alright, but not great (its an auto)
after i put steeda lower control arms on it, it would barely scratch a tire, the only change was the lower arms
just my .02
 

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Posted by st5150 (Member # 51) on :
 
I've seen exact opposite results on a 5 speed car with a reasonably "grippy" clutch.
 

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Posted by castor (Member # 2765) on :
 
I've those "factory five" ones that they advertise in 5.0 mag. i'm not sure how well they work, but they were damn cheap! upper and lowers for 150!!!
 

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Posted by season'd 88 (Member # 169) on :
 
changing out the stock uppers on a street car is a bad idea. as far as the lowers, i replaced mine with a set of global west tbf whatevers. they are very stout and have served me well over the years. mega bite jrs work very well for street strip duty.
 

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Posted by 91 5.0 (Member # 1527) on :
 
whats the difference between the megabite jr's and Sr's???? Why is changing the UCA's a bad idea?

[ May 28, 2003, 03:50 PM: Message edited by: 91 5.0 ]
 

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Posted by season'd 88 (Member # 169) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by 91 5.0:
whats the difference between the megabite jr's and Sr's???? Why is changing the UCA's a bad idea?

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quote:

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Originally posted by 91 5.0:
I cant go driving around town on my slicks

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why not, i do
 

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Posted by 91sleeper (Member # 779) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by 91 5.0:
Why is changing the UCA's a bad idea?

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I think its ok to change the uppers and lowers as long as the uppers are rubber and not polyurethane. If both upper and lower bushings are polyurethane they will bind like mentioned above.
 

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Posted by Black94 5.0 (Member # 655) on :
 
What kind of driving do you do????.........

If you like to drag race then more than corner carve then I would recommend a set of lower control arms that have sperical bearings at BOTH ends...Sperical bearings reduce axle wind up compared to polyurethane bushings and also keep the correct articulation of the rear suspension...

For upper control arms I suggest going with either the FMS HD uppers or (if your into drag racing) I would recommend some adjustable uppers with sperical bearings...Sperical bearings will help the rear axle move more freely without bushing bind!..The reason you should get "adjustable" uppers is so you can adjust your pinion angle for optimum traction...

Its been said before, but traction is only as good as the tires!..
 

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Posted by 91 5.0 (Member # 1527) on :
 
im only into drag racing.
 

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Posted by mustanggt5091 (Member # 444) on :
 
I would say the eibach drag luanch kit and a set of Mega Bite Jr.s, you can get spherical bushings for the Jr.s also!
 

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Posted by rokcrln (Member # 2536) on :
 
Don't know about on the track but on the street I just installed a full M&M box kit plus the torque arm set up and it can bearly burn off now. Before it would flip flop side to side and lite up forever. With the new location of the torque arm it adds tons of traction. When dropping the clutch the rear pinion wants to twist up and with the T-arm it wont let the pinion do this and what happens instead is when it tries to lift it has to lift the car first and this only adds more weight to the rear tires. Before when you dumped the clutch the rear would squat abit and lift the fron some and now it feals like you are being pushed from behind straite forward if that makes sence. No squat just strait a head.

[ May 29, 2003, 07:39 PM: Message edited by: rokcrln ]
 

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Posted by Blown Mystic with a POS 90 ranger (Member # 476) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by 91 5.0:
Then what can I do for traction?

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quote:

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Originally posted by Blown Mystic with a POS 90 ranger:

quote:

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Originally posted by 91 5.0:
Then what can I do for traction?

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ET STREETS

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quote:

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Originally posted by KCmustangboy:

quote:

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Originally posted by Blown Mystic with a POS 90 ranger:

quote:

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Originally posted by 91 5.0:
Then what can I do for traction?

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ET STREETS

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well said

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Posted by 91 5.0 (Member # 1527) on :
 
Let me clarify... Besides slicks or ET streets, what can I do for traction?
 

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Posted by 92coupe (Member # 1957) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by rokcrln:
No squat just strait a head.

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