T O P I C R E V I E W
|
91 5.0
Member # 1527
|
posted
I pulled the codes and got a 41 and 91. These are supposed to mean there is lean condition, but im not using my supercharger nor have I given it more than part throttle. Ive got 24lb injectors and 73mm c&l mass air meter. The check engine light only comes on after running the car for about 15 minutes. I had to extend the o2 sensors for the long tube headers, could this have anything to do with it? Anyone have any ideas?? Thanks.
|
shade-tree
Member # 298
|
posted
those are the codes I fear the most. It means a ground is probably misconnected--- or like you said you may have fubared the O2 sensor wiring.
hope you get it worked out, check your plugs, they should be black as that's what happens(rich) when the comp thinks you're lean through errant O2 readings which could just be a ground. (wiring harness ground by the firewall/injector harness or even the motor mount/block grounds, etc. etc.
|
st5150
Member # 51
|
posted
Did you only cut/solder ONE wire at a time when you extended your O2 sensors to make sure there is absolutely no way you can possibly mix up the wires?
|
91 5.0
Member # 1527
|
posted
hmm, but if it was a ground, wouldnt it start right away? The check engine light only comes on after 10-15 minutes of driving. Do you still think it could be a ground or wiring problem?
|
91 5.0
Member # 1527
|
posted
quote: Originally posted by st5150: Did you only cut/solder ONE wire at a time when you extended your O2 sensors to make sure there is absolutely no way you can possibly mix up the wires?
yep, one wire at a time. They cant be crossed.
|
st5150
Member # 51
|
posted
Yes, it sounds like your O2 sensors are not wired up right. Even a shorted O2 sensor will take 10-15 minutes for the EEC to turn on the check engine light for.
|
91 5.0
Member # 1527
|
posted
all the wires should be in the right spot. I did them one at a time. could this simply be because the ground might not be hooked up? Also, should I think about getting new o2 sensors, and how does my new air/fuel ratio guage hook into the o2 sensors?
|
st5150
Member # 51
|
posted
Yes, if the O2 sensor is not grounded (back of passenger side head), then the heater for it won't turn on and the sensor won't function, giving EEC codes.
If you got an Autometer air fuel ratio guage, it connects to the signal wire from the O2 sensor. Its the one putting out about half a volt at idle. I highly highly recomend you return that sensor because its pretty useless and more of a light flasher than an air fuel ratio guage. A real air fuel ratio guage is a "wide band O2 sensor/meter"
|
street_illegal_stang
Member # 1554
|
posted
check the driver side cylinder head.in the rear of the head towards the fire wall there is a orange wire that is grounded to the heads .supposly that is a ground for the fuel pressure regulator or fuel injectors.. the wire comes from the harness right above the pvc valve grounded to the head.commonly broken when doing head swaps.
|
91 5.0
Member # 1527
|
posted
Thanks. Those two grounds were disconnected. I hooked them both up to the intake bolt. Will that work? I erased the codes and drove it, but still got another 91???? I noticed that the tach is bouncing around a whole bunch, looks like an electrical problem, but when I remove the spout connector to adjust timing, the tach steadies out???? Any ideas what that could be from.
|
street_illegal_stang
Member # 1554
|
posted
you can't ground them to the heads?in the back of the head there should be a screw specificly for that ground wire...in fact its on both heads but i'm talking about the driver side.
|
5PT SLOW
Member # 638
|
posted
dustin why is it when i tell you what to try you go and ask these people and get the same answers????
|
5PT SLOW
Member # 638
|
posted
quote: Originally posted by street_illegal_stang: "in the back of the head there should be a screw specificly for that ground wire"...in fact its on both heads but i'm talking about the DRIVERS side.
see dustin "back of head not intake brother"
but what do i know? im "built starky tough" weve never ran into these problems before so i wouldnt know anything!!!! [ March 08, 2003, 12:30 PM: Message edited by: 5PT SLOW ]
|
91 5.0
Member # 1527
|
posted
It doesnt matter where the fuck its grounded. Its all the same thing and it all conducts electricity.
|
5PT SLOW
Member # 638
|
posted
your right. good luck with it.
|
street_illegal_stang
Member # 1554
|
posted
yeah,i guess it does'nt really matter.but i always strive for a better grounding [ March 09, 2003, 12:47 AM: Message edited by: street_illegal_stang ]
|
87Back-N-Black
Member # 325
|
posted
quote: Originally posted by 91 5.0: It doesnt matter where the fuck its grounded. Its all the same thing and it all conducts electricity.
he's right, as long as there is a good ground, it will work no matter if he grounds it to the block, or to his butt hole! (not reccomended!) dont feel bad dustin, mine ripped when i pulled the motor, luckly i saw it when it happened...
|
87Back-N-Black
Member # 325
|
posted
[/qb][/QUOTE] but what do i know? im "built starky tough" [/QB][/QUOTE] hey mike... Im "built Ryan tough" because MY name is Ryan and I built mine! LOL
|
5PT SLOW
Member # 638
|
posted
quote: Originally posted by 87Back-N-Black: [/qb]
but what do i know? im "built starky tough" [/QUOTE] hey mike... Im "built Ryan tough" because MY name is Ryan and I built mine! LOL[/QB][/QUOTE]
its a inside joke to chris M who was talking about how i didnt build my new motor that i had someone build it, when infact he didnt build his on motor, he had someone build it. in my case i saw the motor for sell i baught it. different story. and he said that i should take my "built ford tough" incon off and put "built starky though" so now i just go around saying im "built starky tough" plus he has no idea what ive even done to that motor anyways so hes talking out his ass!!
|