This is topic M&M's Grip in a box? in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


To visit this topic, use this URL:
https://californiafords.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=003307
Posted by rokcrln (Member # 2536) on :
 
I just bought a 91 GT fast back and need to redue the front suspention. I car is a salvage due to a good curb hop. The K-member is shifted but the unibody is fine. The rest of the car and suspention is stock. What I am looking at is at least the road and track kit for $2,100 or the Maximum for $4,200. The diff between the two is night and day. But since I am looking at replacing my stock K-member with a new one should I just go for the Maximum box kit. It will give a tubular K-member and A-arms full coil overs front and back and the Tork-arm plus all the standard stuff they have. Has any one here used the Maximun kit? I searched and found a good write up on the road and track kit and it sounds great. But is the Maximum kit even that much better? I plan on just playing with this car for now it is a spare. But I am the kind of person that tends to go all out once in to something. So what are your thoughts?

[ March 07, 2003, 03:49 PM: Message edited by: rokcrln ]
 
Posted by Quick 88LX (Member # 1950) on :
 
Go with MM if you have the $. They had a stock 89lx outhandle a few porches and vipers when they installed their grip in a box kit on the stang. I was very impressed and if I had 4200 to spend on suspension I would go with MM for SURE! Or griggs, but they are WAAAAAAAAAAAAy more expensive
 
Posted by 93ex-chp (Member # 1688) on :
 
if the front end is tweaked id suggest just selling it and getting something more solid as a starting point. no point throwing alot of money at something to make it handle like stock
 
Posted by rokcrln (Member # 2536) on :
 
The front end is not tweaked just the K-member is slid in the stock adjuster holes. I pulled the frame and diamond checked it so I know it is fine. It is just to put the k-member back to stock spec it is as much work as changing it out.
 
Posted by rokcrln (Member # 2536) on :
 
Or would I be better off buying their road and track kit w/o shocks and struts (mine are new) but add in the torque-arm kit. Then spend another 2k on new H pipe and flows out the back and headers. Also a larger throtle body, air intake and computer.
 
Posted by Black94 5.0 (Member # 655) on :
 
I think for your purpose of the vehicle I would just get the "Road & Track Box"($2,142.)....I think you will be very happy!!!...
As for your K member allign it to the rest of the car....If you think that the stock K member is at all fucked up, then I would go with the "Maximum Grip Box"($4209.)..Its a lot more but you dont just get a K member, you get the coil overs, torque arm and front control arms....

With the money you save if you get the "Road & Track Box", you should buy gears(3.55/3.73), ASP Pullies, an off-road pipe(no cats), C&L 76mm MAF, and you will easily have a solid 13 second car!!
[burnout]
 
Posted by rokcrln (Member # 2536) on :
 
Black94, That is just what I have decided to do. Get the road and track kit then get the 5 lug disk conversion ( so I can run your rims) and then cam my 92 OMC Cobra marine 302 and drop it in with the EFI set up off the GT or may be put in my 351W. I am leaning tward the 302, It is bullit proof and made to run 6k all day long. It is stock with the high nickle block, beefed up mains, steel crank, forged pistons, HD rods and only has 20hrs then 10k miles on it. Then headers "x" pipe and stage 2 flows out the back. Then would be time for the bolt ons like intake, larger T-body and all the normal Sh!t.
 




Fueled by Ford Mustang Owners
on CaliforniaFords.com