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Author
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Topic: A/C Delete Question
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Gear Head
JARED
Member # 779
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posted
 
 
Someone told me that you can delete your ac by switching your tensioner around so that you do not have to buy a ac delete kit. Is this true? I can't really go out and look at my car because I am at work so I am trying to picture it in my head. If it is true does anyone have anymore info on it?
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Posts: 5685 | From: EASTBAY | Registered: Jan 2002
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rokcrln
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Member # 2536
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posted
91sleeper~ I just went out and checked my 91GT and it looks like you can do it with the right belt installed. I do not see how you can change your tentioner around to help at all. It is just a mater of the right belt length so your tentioner is at FULL tention not just in the range. This is due to now going from the top of your PS pully over the H2O pully (clearing by 1-2") and on top of the alternator and then back to reg. Hope this helps.
Posts: 448 | From: Winters Ca. | Registered: Mar 2003
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Stimson
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Member # 51
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Yes, it can be done. You have to flip the spring inside the tentioner around. I hear its a project because the spring is so stiff.
Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000
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JoeT
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Member # 298
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options for jury-rigging the front end dress of your motor are virtually limitless.
Do you need to save 40 lbs. off the nose of your car that badly? Somewhere around 0.03-0.05 in ET? Put in a lightweight battery and call it even?
At WOT the drag from the A/C compressor is comparable to an idler pulley.
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1984 Ford Tempo AOD--- RIP
Posts: 6785 | From: San Jose | Registered: Jun 2001
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Gear Head
JARED
Member # 779
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by shade-tree:
options for jury-rigging the front end dress of your motor are virtually limitless.
Do you need to save 40 lbs. off the nose of your car that badly? Somewhere around 0.03-0.05 in ET? Put in a lightweight battery and call it even?
At WOT the drag from the A/C compressor is comparable to an idler pulley.
I did not ask for an opinion on if I should take it out or not I simply asked if it could be done and how. Thank you.
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Posts: 5685 | From: EASTBAY | Registered: Jan 2002
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Gear Head
JARED
Member # 779
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posted
Is there any step by step article explaining how to do this?
Thanks ![[patriot]](graemlins/patriot.gif)
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Posts: 5685 | From: EASTBAY | Registered: Jan 2002
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88gt
Custom
Member # 579
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 91sleeper:
quote:
Originally posted by shade-tree:
options for jury-rigging the front end dress of your motor are virtually limitless.
Do you need to save 40 lbs. off the nose of your car that badly? Somewhere around 0.03-0.05 in ET? Put in a lightweight battery and call it even?
At WOT the drag from the A/C compressor is comparable to an idler pulley.
I did not ask for an opinion on if I should take it out or not I simply asked if it could be done and how. Thank you.
Don't be a prick when someone older and much wiser is offering you good advice.
Posts: 1482 | From: Santa Clara/Bay area | Registered: Nov 2001
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JoeT
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Member # 298
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no hard feelings. I deleted my A/C with the March A/C delete bracket which relocates your tensioner from your alternator bracket over to hang off a new plate attached to the H20 pump, it worked great but it was ~ $40 and not free.
That reminds me, I need to put it back on ![[Wink]](wink.gif) I figured a way to use the idler pulley setup from the PS side of a SN-95 5.0 and slapped it on my '93.
The 40#'s of weight savings was why I did it. But the only drawback that I see is I can't say "hey, I ran a xx.xx @ 1xx.xx *with the AC blowing on the return road* heh."
I'm just saying that in my application I felt the 40#'s was worth it (although at times I have second thoughts--- but big deal I mean I can always put it back), but I see a lot of people do it for what could be the wrong reasons. It also seems that once you take it off you're less likely to ever put it back---- but when it's off it's a lot easier to replace the seals. anyways...
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1984 Ford Tempo AOD--- RIP
Posts: 6785 | From: San Jose | Registered: Jun 2001
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Quick 88LX
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Member # 1950
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posted
I also have the $40 march kit and let me tell you that if you are thinking about taking the AC out, this is a much easier way to do it. I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND using this kit (a plate, two bolts, and two spacers) over jimmy rigging anything. My buddy and I tried the jimmy rig approach and threw belt after belt; so we called that quits and went the safer (and yes more $) route and just bought the kit. More $ spent now= Less headache later. My .02
[ March 04, 2003, 01:41 AM: Message edited by: Quick 88LX ]
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"Men are Made, Not Born"
Car Picture : http://www.angelfire.com/theforce/quick88lx/
Original Member #495. Can I get my number back?
Posts: 1785 | From: Fairfield, CA/Okinawa, Japan | Registered: Oct 2002
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Gear Head
JARED
Member # 779
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posted
I want to take it off for the simple fact that its broken for one and two I never used it when it was working and three its ugly and will look better without it.
I think I will just get the ac delete kit that you can buy. I havent found anymore info on this.
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Posts: 5685 | From: EASTBAY | Registered: Jan 2002
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mustanggt5091
All I need is.....
Member # 444
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posted
I got the delete kit from UPR, worked out great and looks good. I did for the same reasons as you 91sleeper. Only thing you should know is that it works best with a factory belt tensioner, There are some different ones available on the market with a plastic pulley, do not use one of these. I threw belt after belt, simple change to the original cured that problem!
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88 GT 357w (SOLD):(
06 Limited Edition R6 !!!!!
Posts: 2353 | From: Fairfield / Santa Rosa , Ca | Registered: Sep 2001
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StreetStang37
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Member # 935
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posted
I never have had any problems with my reversed tensioner. Look up the subject on corral.net, there is a website someone gives in one of the topics. The website lists about everything you need with instructions how. I can try real quick but probably wont be as thorough:
1. Take tensioner off
2. Lift small black flat piece that has the tension indicator off. You will need a flat head screwdriver to do that. Its a little tough, but easy enough. Dont bend it up too much, youll need it later. If you bend it, just smash it on the floor (cement) with a hammer to flatten it.
3. When you get that black tab off, everything will come apart easily. Take everything apart. Should be two plastic pieces, spring, front metal piece, back metal piece and the black tab.
4. On the back metal piece there is a small hole where the spring use to go to. You will have to drill a new hole for the spring. I will look in my car and measure exactly where so its fool proof. Thats pretty much it. After that you put it back together.
Follow me so far?
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1993 Grabber Blue Mustang GT
Trick Flow Heads, Street Heat intake, 3/8in spacer, E303, TFS 1.7rr & 6.75 pushrods, Holley 190lph fuel pump, 24# injectors & sample tube, SVO timing chain, Aeromotive AFPR, 180* t-stat, 2 5/8 Auto Meter mech fuel pressure gauge, K&N, March Ram Air & Pullies, Black Magic Electric Fan, 73mm C&L MAF, Edelbrock 65mm TB & EGR, 1 5/8in Equal Length Super Competition Hooker Headers, 2 1/2in H-Pipe w/hi-flow cats & Flowmaster 2 1/2in Cat-Back Exhaust, FlowTech Cut-Outs, Nitto DR's, 3.73 gears, FMS Aluminum DriveShaft, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Pro-Shift Lite, 9mm FMS Plug Wires, PowerSlot rotors, PowerMaster 140amp Alt., LX lights, Cobra R hood w/SVO scoop, Saleen spoiler, Cobra Bumper, MaCh1 paint scheme, 3in chrome tips
Posts: 88 | From: San Jose CA | Registered: Feb 2002
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Drew B
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Member # 698
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 91sleeper:
I want to take it off for the simple fact that its broken for one and two I never used it when it was working and three its ugly and will look better without it.
I think I will just get the ac delete kit that you can buy. I havent found anymore info on this.
Steve has a delete kit he might want to sell it not sure though i'll find out. Im glad my car didn't come with a/c ![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
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AKA.GR40coupe
Posts: 1992 | From: Nor-cal | Registered: Jan 2002
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punkrawkdude99
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Member # 2427
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posted
seems like by passing it would make the rest of the stuff turn much much faster and still take the same ammount of pull away from the engine...i dont know shit about this stuff...but that is what im picturing in my mind...i thought those pulley kits were to make the accessories turn slower....you take part of the pulley system away and what would be the benefit? blow the alternator??
Posts: 34 | From: Northridge, CA | Registered: Feb 2003
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StreetStang37
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Member # 935
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posted
think about it this way. Lets say the crank pushes/pulls 5" of belt per rotation (just a round number for example purposes). Regardless of the size of the belt, every rotation of the crank is only pushing/pulling 5" of belt, so the size of the belt doesn't matter at all. Your accessories will spin at the same rpms regardless of belt size. The size of the pulleys are the only determining factor of the rpms of the accessories.
The main reason for those kits would be to remove weight.
As for the location of the hole your supposed to drill, I don't have anything to measure with so I'll come up on a measuring tape from work tomorrow.
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1993 Grabber Blue Mustang GT
Trick Flow Heads, Street Heat intake, 3/8in spacer, E303, TFS 1.7rr & 6.75 pushrods, Holley 190lph fuel pump, 24# injectors & sample tube, SVO timing chain, Aeromotive AFPR, 180* t-stat, 2 5/8 Auto Meter mech fuel pressure gauge, K&N, March Ram Air & Pullies, Black Magic Electric Fan, 73mm C&L MAF, Edelbrock 65mm TB & EGR, 1 5/8in Equal Length Super Competition Hooker Headers, 2 1/2in H-Pipe w/hi-flow cats & Flowmaster 2 1/2in Cat-Back Exhaust, FlowTech Cut-Outs, Nitto DR's, 3.73 gears, FMS Aluminum DriveShaft, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Pro-Shift Lite, 9mm FMS Plug Wires, PowerSlot rotors, PowerMaster 140amp Alt., LX lights, Cobra R hood w/SVO scoop, Saleen spoiler, Cobra Bumper, MaCh1 paint scheme, 3in chrome tips
Posts: 88 | From: San Jose CA | Registered: Feb 2002
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Gear Head
JARED
Member # 779
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posted
Let me check to see if I can find out the link on the corral.
Wait whats the website again?
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Posts: 5685 | From: EASTBAY | Registered: Jan 2002
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StreetStang37
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Member # 935
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posted
none of them say exactly where to drill though. The way I did it was hold that bottom piece (the one your supposed to drill) against your screen on the pic they have of it and try to mark exactly at the same angle as them. Get it? Hard to explain. I'll post the measurement tomorrow (example: 2.5in. clockwise from the original hole).
The belt you would need after to bypass the smog pump and powersteering (just crank, water pump, alternator) is 43.33"
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1993 Grabber Blue Mustang GT
Trick Flow Heads, Street Heat intake, 3/8in spacer, E303, TFS 1.7rr & 6.75 pushrods, Holley 190lph fuel pump, 24# injectors & sample tube, SVO timing chain, Aeromotive AFPR, 180* t-stat, 2 5/8 Auto Meter mech fuel pressure gauge, K&N, March Ram Air & Pullies, Black Magic Electric Fan, 73mm C&L MAF, Edelbrock 65mm TB & EGR, 1 5/8in Equal Length Super Competition Hooker Headers, 2 1/2in H-Pipe w/hi-flow cats & Flowmaster 2 1/2in Cat-Back Exhaust, FlowTech Cut-Outs, Nitto DR's, 3.73 gears, FMS Aluminum DriveShaft, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Pro-Shift Lite, 9mm FMS Plug Wires, PowerSlot rotors, PowerMaster 140amp Alt., LX lights, Cobra R hood w/SVO scoop, Saleen spoiler, Cobra Bumper, MaCh1 paint scheme, 3in chrome tips
Posts: 88 | From: San Jose CA | Registered: Feb 2002
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Gear Head
JARED
Member # 779
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by StreetStang37:
none of them say exactly where to drill though. The way I did it was hold that bottom piece (the one your supposed to drill) against your screen on the pic they have of it and try to mark exactly at the same angle as them. Get it? Hard to explain. I'll post the measurement tomorrow (example: 2.5in. clockwise from the original hole).
The belt you would need after to bypass the smog pump and powersteering (just crank, water pump, alternator) is 43.33"
SO neither of those url's were ones that you used? Can you find the one you used this is all I came up with from teh corral. Its hard to search for ac delete because ac is under the word minimum needed for a search.
Thanks for that other info on the belt length though.
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Posts: 5685 | From: EASTBAY | Registered: Jan 2002
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StreetStang37
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Member # 935
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posted
I did use those sites, I just got lucky where I drilled, but you wont have to guess. I didn't read the part where it says "7 1/4 inches clockwise". The new hole I drilled is 5 3/4 inches clockwise from the CENTER of the old hole to the CENTER of the new hole. Maybe both ways work, I dunno. Worse that can happen is you drill twice and if everything fails after that, put it back the way it went stock. And the 43.33" belt I used was with my underdrive pullies as well.
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1993 Grabber Blue Mustang GT
Trick Flow Heads, Street Heat intake, 3/8in spacer, E303, TFS 1.7rr & 6.75 pushrods, Holley 190lph fuel pump, 24# injectors & sample tube, SVO timing chain, Aeromotive AFPR, 180* t-stat, 2 5/8 Auto Meter mech fuel pressure gauge, K&N, March Ram Air & Pullies, Black Magic Electric Fan, 73mm C&L MAF, Edelbrock 65mm TB & EGR, 1 5/8in Equal Length Super Competition Hooker Headers, 2 1/2in H-Pipe w/hi-flow cats & Flowmaster 2 1/2in Cat-Back Exhaust, FlowTech Cut-Outs, Nitto DR's, 3.73 gears, FMS Aluminum DriveShaft, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Pro-Shift Lite, 9mm FMS Plug Wires, PowerSlot rotors, PowerMaster 140amp Alt., LX lights, Cobra R hood w/SVO scoop, Saleen spoiler, Cobra Bumper, MaCh1 paint scheme, 3in chrome tips
Posts: 88 | From: San Jose CA | Registered: Feb 2002
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Gear Head
JARED
Member # 779
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posted
I decide to order the FMS ac delete kit instead so it brings my power steering up so it looks more factory looking. I didnt like the tensioner mod the way it looked. I will take pics when I have it done.
[ March 06, 2003, 03:17 PM: Message edited by: 91sleeper ]
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Posts: 5685 | From: EASTBAY | Registered: Jan 2002
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