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Author
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Topic: FMS Aluminum-Driv. shaft
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BlackNGold
CaliforniaFords.com
Moderator
Member # 655
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posted
 
 
I'm thinking about getting an Aluminum driveshaft for my '94 5.0...The stock driveshaft has 100,000mi(stock-original)...At 100mph it vibrates like crazy(I think its hurting my ET)..The u joints are in great shape...Its out of balance because the parking brake cable bracket was slicing a nice groove in it...
--Is it worth the $159.00 for a new aluminum driveshaft?? ![[Confused]](confused.gif) ..Will I see any gains in the 1/4 mile??? ![[burnout]](graemlins/burnout.gif)
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-SLOWER TRAFFIC KEEP RIGHT-
Posts: 5132 | From: Bay Area, CA | Registered: Dec 2001
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JoeT
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Member # 298
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posted
you might see something like 0.02 or thereabouts, in otherwords impossible to track verify ![[Wink]](wink.gif)
If you suspect a balance/u-joint problem, why not.
(I have one, heh)
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1984 Ford Tempo AOD--- RIP
Posts: 6785 | From: San Jose | Registered: Jun 2001
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cobraman_1994
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Member # 467
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posted
youll see bigger gains (still not much) when you have gears and the rest of the driveline
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86 GT
Posts: 4882 | From: eldorado hills | Registered: Sep 2001
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StoplightWarrior
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Member # 211
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posted
If you want a used one for cheaper, PM me.
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2000 GT
couple bolt ons
Check out the website: peep it
Posts: 2952 | From: Bay Area, CA | Registered: Mar 2001
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darien87
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Member # 2022
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posted
Any time you can shave rotating weight is a good thing. A lot of people bash on the FRPP unit though. I was told that the FRPP driveshaft is made out of cheap aluminum. I bought the Griggs one from Apex. It's worked out well for me.
Posts: 206 | From: South Bay Area, CA | Registered: Oct 2002
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Stimson
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Member # 51
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posted
I disagree. I'm against aluminum drive shafts and flywheels for drag racing purposes.
Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000
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Quick 88LX
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Member # 1950
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posted
Can anyone put up some numbers to back up there opinions or what??!?! I need to know too... ![[patriot]](graemlins/patriot.gif)
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"Men are Made, Not Born"
Car Picture : http://www.angelfire.com/theforce/quick88lx/
Original Member #495. Can I get my number back?
Posts: 1785 | From: Fairfield, CA/Okinawa, Japan | Registered: Oct 2002
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cobraman_1994
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Member # 467
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posted
dont be cheap. go get a carbon fiber one ![[worship]](graemlins/worship.gif)
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86 GT
Posts: 4882 | From: eldorado hills | Registered: Sep 2001
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Stimson
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Member # 51
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Quick 88LX:
Can anyone put up some numbers to back up there opinions or what??!?! I need to know too...
Take my word for it
Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000
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BlackNGold
CaliforniaFords.com
Moderator
Member # 655
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by st5150:
quote:
Originally posted by Quick 88LX:
Can anyone put up some numbers to back up there opinions or what??!?! I need to know too...
Take my word for it
**Sawson,....Do you have an Aluminum driveshaft???If NO, then why should we take your word for it??(no offense intended)....Please give me facts not opinions!!...If you know of any information(web-sites) on why not to get an alum. drv. shft.let me know. ![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
[ January 12, 2003, 06:23 PM: Message edited by: Black94 5.0 ]
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-SLOWER TRAFFIC KEEP RIGHT-
Posts: 5132 | From: Bay Area, CA | Registered: Dec 2001
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Hungry Hippo
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Member # 537
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posted
the fms aluminum d/s isnt even much lighter than stock. it is also a little thicker. all in all, if you have gears and a 5 speed, it'll smooth things out a little. also, some cars will make a funny harmonic sound on the freeway
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05 S4 Avant(wagon)
09 C6 H/C/I
Posts: 2959 | From: east bay | Registered: Nov 2001
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JoeT
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Member # 298
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posted
IMHO, if your U-joints are wasted you really can't argue against an aluminum driveshaft. They're what? $150?
Good luck getting a U-joint replaced for that, lol.
Anyways I weighed the two and there's 7 pounds difference between the two (yeah, big woop), and the aluminum driveshaft has a larger diameter.
My driveshaft loop just *barely* clears the FMS alum driveshaft given the bolts/nuts on either side of the loop.
Anyways the moment of inertia benefits from the aluminum driveshaft are going to be mitigated because of the larger diameter vs. the factory iron driveshaft.
I'd still say (given the 7 lbs.) that the power loss from the alum driveshaft is less than the iron one (from a net moment of inertia point of view).
I still will say it's worth ~ 0.02 on a 14.00 car
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1984 Ford Tempo AOD--- RIP
Posts: 6785 | From: San Jose | Registered: Jun 2001
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Drew B
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Member # 698
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posted
alot of my friends have Aluminum driveshaft's including myself, ive never had a problem don't do to much dragging but i have a few other friends with the same Aluminum driveshaft and they have anywhere from 5-800 hp in there car and they drag and they don't seem to have a problem.
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AKA.GR40coupe
Posts: 1992 | From: Nor-cal | Registered: Jan 2002
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Stimson
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Member # 51
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posted
Who says less rotating mass means more power? Not Ed Hohenberg. (Ed has more experience, passes down the track and trophies than all of us combined, not to mention a doctorate in physics )
quote:
I would NOT recommend an Aluminium flywheel with a near stock engine, in a near stock weight Mustang. The car will not only give up significant launch potential, but it will also lose energy on the shifts.
Logically, you might expect the MPH to go up with the Aluminium wheel (less rotating inertia) even if the ET suffers from a softer launch, but my testing showed the Aluminium wheel to give up BOTH ET and MPH. This clearly showed how the steel wheel holds RPM through the powershifts significantly better, in addition to the harder launch.
And just FYI, with around 290 rwhp, my car 60 foots in the low 1.5's, with a steel flywheel.
He ran 11's with a stock spec NHRA 5.O LX. An aluminum drive shaft (and flywheel) slowed him down. But....... hey, if a company advertises something in Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords, then it _must_ do something and make your car go faster right???
Don't shoot me guys, I'm just the messanger If you want to have every single mod in the book only to run a tenth faster than a guy with half the mods as you... be my guest
[ January 12, 2003, 09:07 PM: Message edited by: st5150 ]
Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000
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Black88GT
CAFords OG
Member # 394
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posted
I got one when my u joints went out. It would have cost 120. to have mine rebuilt, so for 40 more bucks , for a brand new fms one. I have heard that the griggs one is better.
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2000 Griggs Racing GT
2012 Kona GT500
Posts: 991 | From: Alameda | Registered: Aug 2001
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Stimson
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Member # 51
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posted
gR40coupe- Take your car to the track, you have much more mods than I do on my 5.O, not to mention a lighter car. Lets see how you stack up against my tired LX with all the usefull mods you have
Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000
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BlackNGold
CaliforniaFords.com
Moderator
Member # 655
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by st5150:
Who says less rotating mass means more power? Not Ed Hohenberg. (Ed has more experience, passes down the track and trophies than all of us combined, not to mention a doctorate in physics )
quote:
I would NOT recommend an Aluminium flywheel with a near stock engine, in a near stock weight Mustang. The car will not only give up significant launch potential, but it will also lose energy on the shifts.
Logically, you might expect the MPH to go up with the Aluminium wheel (less rotating inertia) even if the ET suffers from a softer launch, but my testing showed the Aluminium wheel to give up BOTH ET and MPH. This clearly showed how the steel wheel holds RPM through the powershifts significantly better, in addition to the harder launch.
And just FYI, with around 290 rwhp, my car 60 foots in the low 1.5's, with a steel flywheel.
He ran 11's with a stock spec NHRA 5.O LX. An aluminum drive shaft (and flywheel) slowed him down. But....... hey, if a company advertises something in Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords, then it _must_ do something and make your car go faster right???
Don't shoot me guys, I'm just the messanger If you want to have every single mod in the book only to run a tenth faster than a guy with half the mods as you... be my guest
....Hey thats great!!, but I'm not putting on an "aluminum flywheel",and I said noting about putting on an "aluminum flywheel"!!!!!!!!!...I'm putting on a "aluminum driveshaft"!!...
[ January 12, 2003, 10:04 PM: Message edited by: Black94 5.0 ]
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-SLOWER TRAFFIC KEEP RIGHT-
Posts: 5132 | From: Bay Area, CA | Registered: Dec 2001
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Stimson
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Member # 51
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posted
Rotating mass is rotating mass. I can't find the post he made about the drive shaft, but trust me, he was against the drive shaft as well. Same principle/reasoning.
[ January 12, 2003, 10:09 PM: Message edited by: st5150 ]
Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000
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CobramanPhil
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Member # 2170
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posted
I think it all depends on how much you want to spend. If your need new ujoints or if your stock DS is out of balance...why not? Get a replacement and don't worry about it. There is mimimal gains in either (griggs or ford).
The most important for me (driveshaft wise) would be if it is balanced or not. How much are the griggs shafts anyway???? Some people I know have rebalanced their stock ones with no problems...
Phil
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2013 Shelby GT500
2011 Porsche 911 TurboS/AWD
2014 GSXR750
2002 GSXR750 Track Beater Bike
2016 Explorer Unlimted
Posts: 1016 | From: California, Bay Area | Registered: Dec 2002
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BlackNGold
CaliforniaFords.com
Moderator
Member # 655
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posted
Oh yes, the stock D/S is 22.5 lbs...
The aluminum D/S is 14.lbs....
Thats around 8.5 lbs difference..
I know that its 3.5 inch in diameter is much more mass away from the center of the D/S requiring more force to change speed....Oh well...
Thanks guys, looks like I'm going to get the FMS driveshaft(dont know the price on the Griggs but its probably more than $159)...
[ January 12, 2003, 10:52 PM: Message edited by: Black94 5.0 ]
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-SLOWER TRAFFIC KEEP RIGHT-
Posts: 5132 | From: Bay Area, CA | Registered: Dec 2001
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