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Author
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Topic: stupid NX kit install question regarding fuel source 'teeing'
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JoeT
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Member # 298
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posted
 
 
OK, I've been over this topic a few times in my head already, but the NX install looks like it wants me to use a valve core removal tool on the factory schrader valve on the fuel rail on the passenger side.
That's fine, but my question is... is this the ideal way to do it? I ran it by one of my chevy friends (!) and he suggested a stand alone fuel cell (3 gallon) with an in-line pump going to the fuel solenoid. Now this seems weird to me because I'm afraid of screwing up the air/fuel/nitrous ratio because if you 'tee' off the fuel rail, the in-tank pump (mine is a 255 lph 'high pressure' unit) will be giving near identical pressures to the fuel rail and the fuel solenoid/jet.
Actually if I think about it, the schrader valve is pre-fuel regulator so it's seeing unregulated pressure from the pump, and the fuel rail sees something entirely different.
Does this matter? Does the pressure the fuel solenoid receives matter? Does the fuel solenoid function as some kind of internally regulated device? So that say if I have an 88 lph in tank pump, or a 155 or 255 the fuel solenoid delivers the same amount of fuel (given the same jet).
thanks for any help ![[worship]](graemlins/worship.gif)
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1984 Ford Tempo AOD--- RIP
Posts: 6785 | From: San Jose | Registered: Jun 2001
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jmcclesk
Moderator
Member # 1355
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posted
Shade call me. it would take me too long to type. t-off the valve is the correct way
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Ford trained ASE master tech.
Posts: 4024 | From: marrysville | Registered: May 2002
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Milesblown03
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Member # 27
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posted
The shrader valve is not pre regulator. The pressure at the schrader valve will be the same as the pressure at the injectors, hence the reason for the schrader( to check fuel pressure!) Now thats i think about it, the entire fuel system from the pump, to the regulator, to the fuel rail, willl all have the same pressure. The regulator will just dump off excess pressure (from the whole system) and dump it back in the tank. So, teeing into the fuel rail would seem ideal. I guess you could go crazy and add a seperate fuel cell, with its own pump,etc, but why? To much extra work for too little gain. As long as the in tank pump will support it, T-it and forget it!!
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99 honda 996 superhawk...
03 cobra:422rwhp,399rwtq (before pulley)
New best,12.07@119.9(!!)mph on nittos (cant drive to save my life!)
Posts: 1002 | From: Hayward, CA | Registered: Jun 2000
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Pro50Eric
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Member # 2065
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posted
Miles made good points and he was absolutely correct in what he said. All it's going to do is knock off the excess pressure. I don't think you would need to full with a separate fuel cell. Good luck with it.
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Recently Acquired!! 68 Camaro Outlaw 10.5
Posts: 107 | From: Va | Registered: Nov 2002
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Chris M.
Ignore me, all I do is argue online!
Member # 1708
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posted
I don’t know shit about nitrous but this is what i think i know.
If you run a really high fuel pressure (like 40+) then you'll need to use TINY fuel jets. So tiny that there could be a problem with little crap like dirt plugging them. You also have to run the same octane gas that you have in your tank.
If you put a cell and a pump for just nitrous and run the pump at 7-10 psi or whatever it calls for then you can use bigger jets for the same amount of fuel. You can also run a higher octane when injecting the nitrous which lets you run more timing.
From what I’ve heard the recommended jets for fuel and nitrous have to be at a certain psi and I’ve also heard they give you jetting for both carb pumps (7-10 psi) and efi pumps (40-55 psi).
Now like i said at the beginning, i don’t know shit about nitrous, what i just told you was stuff that I’ve HEARD, not facts, so unless someone backs me up on this info... ignore it.
Posts: 2828 | From: West Bay, CA | Registered: Aug 2002
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JoeT
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Member # 298
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posted
sounds good, thanks Chris I mean Paint job ![[Wink]](wink.gif)
I'm sourcing a valve-core removal tool and will be having at it. The rest of the kit is totally installed.
If you guys don't have a cool switch plate yet, look into the one AFM sells. room four 4 switches (heater, purge, remote opener, electric fan). NICE! All in the ashtray.
Posts: 6785 | From: San Jose | Registered: Jun 2001
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Chris M.
Ignore me, all I do is argue online!
Member # 1708
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posted
wish i could give you some actual facts, i've never really researched nitrous because i like blowers much more. in a year or so (or whenever money lets me) i'll probably put a 75-100 shot on my car and i plan on running a second tank and pump just so i can use a higher octane fuel than the crappy 91 in my gas tank.
that is why i'd prefer doing it that way.
Posts: 2828 | From: West Bay, CA | Registered: Aug 2002
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AaronC
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Member # 86
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posted
The NX kit should work VERY well for you. I ran one for almost 1.5 years and it put up solid #'s. Expect 8 MPH from your 75 shot. 1050 psi in the bottle and regular timing was how I ran it for the 75 shot. I have an extra NX bottle with gauge if you need another bottle. It's full too.
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1991 GT Convertible: Stock 157k mile shortblock, HiTech cam, AFR 165 heads, Edelbrock RPM intake, 1 3/4 headers
12.23 at 112.99
Best MPH 113.97
Posts: 776 | From: woodland | Registered: Dec 2000
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JoeT
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Member # 298
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posted
heh, I refuse to buy anything from you Aaron. You need it for your stang ![[Mad]](mad.gif)
Posts: 6785 | From: San Jose | Registered: Jun 2001
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5project stang0
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Member # 2082
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posted
ask jared (91sleeper).....hes good with No2
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"Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
1989 bronco with a 8 inch lift...GONE
1972 camaro split bumper....GONE
1994 bagged and shaved s10....GONE
1989 mustang....GONE
whats next?
Posts: 887 | From: Livermore, Ca | Registered: Nov 2002
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Chris M.
Ignore me, all I do is argue online!
Member # 1708
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posted
but how is he with n2o?
Posts: 2828 | From: West Bay, CA | Registered: Aug 2002
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Unregistered
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Member # 786
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posted
*cough* Someone I know *cough* had a FP gauge in his schrader(sp) valve on the fuel rail when he went to install the fuel line. He went down to monument got a T fitting so the bottom piece that connected the FP gauge and the fuel rail screwed into the bottom of the T fitting, the fitting for the fuel line screwed into the side of the T, and the gauge screwed into the top, pretty simple and it only cost $5. Let me know if you need any help, this was prbably the easiest part for me, I mean him, my friend.
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2001.5 Audi S4
Posts: 1785 | From: Livermore | Registered: Jan 2002
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