posted                             

quote:

---

Originally posted by STOKED:
Here is from what I understand.....

Camber is the amount that the top of your tire slants inward towards the fender... More negative camber the more the tire will tuck or slant back into the fender. Postive camber will cause the tire to go the other way which would be a bad thing

Then next is when you increase caster, it moves the intersection of the steering axis further away from the center of the contact patch and you get more scrubbing as the wheels are steered.

Adding caster will change your toe and also your bumpsteer since the steering arm moves vertically as caster is changed.

Hmmm hard to explain caster until you get your plates and then fool around with them... then you will see....

well here is what the MM website says
"High performance settings would be more negative camber and more positive caster. More negative camber and more positive caster will help keep the tire more upright during cornering, thereby maximizing the size of the tire footprint on the ground. When cornering, body roll causes an increase in positive camber, which pulls up the inside edge of the front outside tire, reducing the effective size of the tire’s footprint. More static negative camber counters this effect. For example, if you have 1 degree of static negative camber, and the camber moves 3 degrees due to body roll, you end up with 2 degrees of dynamic positive camber. If you have 3 degrees of static negative camber, you’ll end up with 0 degrees of dynamic camber – resulting in a larger tire footprint. Due to the steering geometry in the front of the Mustang, just turning the steering wheel will cause the camber of the outside front tire to change, becoming more positive. This effect can be countered by increasing the amount of caster. Enough positive caster (around 4 degrees in a Mustang) will cause the camber of the outside front tire to become more negative while cornering."

Don't worry sounds like a bunch of mumbo jumbo right now... but once you fool around with them if you install them you'll see what I mean....

---

Dude thanks so much i followed all that understand it finally....from what i have learned i have a little negative camber on my ride...that seems to be good for when i go to race auto cross but all bad for the streets for tire wear.

But thanks again for all the time spent to help me out. I will have the Hotchkiss plates ordered by the end of the week and i will post back my results.

--------------------
Support our troops!

posted                             

quote:

---

Originally posted by Bill/APEX Motorsports:
You need caster/camber plates and offset steering rack bushings.
We sell the Maximum Motorsports plates for a few reasons:
1) Independently adjustable for caster and camber, allowing extremely precise alignment settings. Set the caster, then set the camber. If you're at the road course and need to dial in some more negative camber, you can easily do it without affecting the caster.
2) Spherical bearing used for the upper strut mount, which prevents deflection under load. The purpose of dialing in your alignment in the first place is to keep the alignment settings under any situation. BBK, Hotchkis, etc. use a urethane mount that will deflect under load. Not good, and weak as well.
3) Strong enough to be used with our Griggs coil-overs. (Three-bolt for '79-'93, four-bolt for '94+)
4) Available in black or chrome.

BTW, any excess of toe , in or out, will cause tire wear, but a bit of toe in (usually 1/16" total) is what we prescribe for high-speed stability. Toe out is popular with autocrossers because it will turn in quickly. Toe out does make the car darty for everyday use and is more likely to follow the ruts in the road.

---