I'm REALLY thinking of 30 lb injectors and plan to get a dyno tune. How soon, I don't know. I just don't want any driveability problems with them. I know mike camara had to turn his down to 36 psi or it'd puff black smoke out the pipes. My current MAF is a C&L 76 unit. What MAF gives the most accurate readings or can the chip work it out? If I get a new mass air what do you think about those NA power pipes from AFM? Are they a waste or is there a few ponies to be had? I'm also thinkin of getting the 1 3/4 longtubes and clean em up and open the collector and run an X pipe. I just about have everything and it should be up and running within a month. Just need to finish the details. Your input is always appreciated. I want this to be the strongest injected NA 306 in the area.

[ February 27, 2002: Message edited by: AaronC ]

it's one of those things (IMHO) that are better verified on a dyno. Different cars respond differently. PRO-M arguably has a superior technology vs. C&L's 'strangled' stock electronics. Either one has been shown to work well.

I talked to Anderson Ford today (they sold me on a performer RPM+TFS headed/with their N-41 cam) and they were recommending 30# FMS 'flow tested' injectors with an 80mm PRO-M for a 300 rwhp NA setup.
I can't imagine the airflow requirements on an AFR 165 NA setup would differ much.

I plan on buying two MAF's and bringing them both to the dyno when it's running. Whichever works better I'm keeping! (keep your receipts, LOL!)

[ February 27, 2002: Message edited by: shade-tree ]

I'm not a big fan of the C&L. Joe has a point, if you get both you can see which one your combo likes better. With a dyno tune there is no need to dyno test the MAFs if you're tuning the EEC. The MAF just controls the air fuel ratio. You can do that with in the EEC itself. For example, if a Pro-M meter was leaner, Mike's car would have ran better with the 30's and no chip.

The 1 3/4" header idea is great.... especially if you're going to spray the motor. X pipe, H pipe, O pipe, Z pipe, I'm still not sold as one being better than the other. As far as the NA power pipes.... what do you have now? They're nice, but if you already have a cold air kit, I doubt you'll gain much.

I think the RWHP champ will come down between you and Joe. Of course Joe will need three of his biggest friends in his car to make the power to weight ratio the same.

If I get 300 rwhp I'd shit my pants. That's my goal. Then slap on some secrets, and go for 310-315 (like delete PS, electric H20 pump, toss the alternator into a field , etc. )

[ February 28, 2002: Message edited by: shade-tree ]

quote:

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Originally posted by AaronC:
My motor is being sent out today or Friday. We ran into a few snags but I wasn't in a big hurry. I just want it done right.

Camara's numbers were very good but Byron didn't want to mess with the timing. It was only 28 degrees total. He said he heard it detonating at first very slightly. IMO there's no way you're going to hear anything over his exhaust (race magnums). I talked to Brian about it and he said that he should have tried it and if it was detonating it'd show up in the graph and then you would obviously turn it back. Brian thought it should take a little more timing with an intake lobe like that to make good cylinder pressure with only 10.3 compression. He'll have track #'s tomorrow and we'll mess with the timing from there. The A/F ratio was 12.8 and he left it there. Any tips or advice?

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How does the car idle? What about drivability?

[ April 04, 2002: Message edited by: st5150 ]