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Dart 347 Build
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by AaronC: [QB] [QUOTE]Originally posted by 2stangs69-91: [qb] LOL I thought I changed it just for you guy's in one post I said as ground dot ot dot oops. on the cam degree change it wasn't my car so as far as the shift points and reving it was kind of limited to what he was willing to try. I will find out about the driveability for you. the reason I might try retarding it N/A is because I always change the cam timming just to find out if it helps. When I was racing my 69 I tried all different positions and what I have really found out is if you have a correct cam for your aplication to begin with the amount you gain from retarding or advancing your cam 4 degrees from were it is ground will give you very small if even noticeable improvments. Plus with a centrifical supercharger you are going to raise your rpm range anyhow. Wht sacrafice any low end power. I have one dyno sheet in my pic profile for a 347 N/A comp cam (I think it was the XE282)that lost tourqe and HP buy going from 4 degrees advance to straight up. It just isn't that good of a scan. If I was building my 331 supercharged engine for Max HP instead of a daily driven car that had to pass smog. I wouldn't be running most my combo LOL. I am building a 410 supercharged combo(for my 69) that I have no restrictions except cash so that will be my high HP set up. [/qb][/QUOTE]So we really don't know much about the before and after results of the comparison because a lot of details are left out. I know 93pony rolled a TFS #1 cam back 4 degrees on an S trim car and it picked up quite a bit. I agree if you have the right cam you won't gain much by altering the ICL but when you look at the sticks used in the "Hot" all motor setups then custom is the only way to go because you can't buy what you need from an off shelfer. Boost is a little different because it band aids a lot of restrictions an NA setup sees. I don't see low end loss an issue either. If it's not there NA then why with a centrifugal blower? It will rev higher (simulating a bigger cam from later intake closing) therefore make more power where the blower is moving the most air. You shift under the factory rev limiter if I remember so it probably will not help you unless you could shift at 6500. Generally I try to recommend the smallest cam to reach a certain rpm/power level. Take the advance out which will make it act bigger but provide better driveability because of less duration than the bigger cam that is advanced. [/QB][/QUOTE]
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