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347 Stroker for an 87 5.0
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by 93PONY: [QB] [QUOTE]Originally posted by jordan_0806: [qb] [QUOTE]Originally posted by 93PONY: [qb] You will not find better prices then from Brian @ ADPerformance. The 347's we build generally will set you back $3000-$3500 depending on options (ARP hardware, girdles, optional machinework, etc).....but we automatically upgrade certain parts like rods, rod bolts, wrist pins, locks, & rings. IMO, if you're going to spend the $$$.....get the best stuff you can & get it done right the first time. One of our customers bought a crate 347 longblock from a well known company (I won't name names). He had multiple issues & finally tore down the motor only to find a 4.030" bore block w/ 4.00" pistons! Mistakes happen.... [/qb][/QUOTE]to be honest folks...spend the extra $1k for shaun's work...it'll be stronger and more reliable.... [/qb][/QUOTE]I don't know about stronger if it's going into a production 5.0L roller block. The stock Cast crankshaft can handle more then the block can take.. When it comes to the guys on a budget it really comes down to parts selection & of course quality machinework/build. Typically these guys aren't willing to spend the $$$ on 'knife edging', chamfering, polishing, etc. The labor for all that adds up fast. I'm not a huge fan of Eagle crankshafts. They are strong, no doubt about that, they are cheap & for the money are hard to beat...but they don't have radiused counterweights. For about the same price you can get a Scat crankshaft that'll handle the same power & it is cast/forged with radiused counterweights.....which is worth a little bit of power....so I tend to discourage our customers from buying Eagle Cranks. Eagle SIR rods & Probe CNC rods I don't like either. They are not heavy & can handle more power then the stock block can.....I just don't like the design. Where the strength is needed most there's a sharp cut for the rod bolt. I prefer cap-screw I beams....but most of our customers want H. With the 347 there's also rod length to consider. 5.400" or 5.315". The difference comes into play with the piston. Specifically where the pin is located. With a 5.4" rod the pin & oil rings intersect which can cause oil to be scrapped up into the combustion chamber. With the 5.315 rods the pin is out of the oil ring (like a 331). Obviously there's rod weight to consider as well. A shorter rod will be lighter, however a shorter rod will tyically mean a heavier piston. There's a bunch of other parts considerations as well....but those are just a few specific to the 347. This is where most of the extra cost comes into play. FWIW, I don't like main stud girdles.....especially aluminum ones. Aluminum expands at a much faster rate than Iron....therefore an aluminum girdle will expand at a faster rate then the iron maincaps. If the girdle is allowed to expand & flex the mains, bearing clearance is only .0015-.002"....so clearances go to shit FAST. Typically you'll see aluminum girdles that 'float' on the main caps with washers... This allows the aluminum to expand without affecting the maincaps.....but then what is the benefit of a girdle? Then there's the question of is a girdle really worth it. Even a steel girdle is not going to keep the block from cracking in half from too much power. Sure, it may keep the main caps from walking at high RPM, but it can not keep it from cracking from too much power. Typically an overpowered 5.0 will fail in the main webbing....under the lifter galley. The newest girdles are lifter valley girdles. In theory they should work.....but IMO if you're planning on pushing more then 500RWHP, it's a smart move to invest in a Dart block. It can be bored .200 over & can handle more power then you'll ever make......basically it's the last block you'll ever buy. [/QB][/QUOTE]
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