T O P I C R E V I E W
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73beast351c
Member # 5397
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posted
Hey im putting together an 5.0 engine im gunna have gt 40 x heads stock short block intake exaust and 24lb injectors what is the best cam i can use to get the most hp and torque i can get and clear my pistons. Smog does not matter.
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vpr_klr
Member # 3353
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posted
Comp 266 hr or 266 xe
a crane 2031.
Remember, bigger is not better when it comes to cams.
I would recommend that you take your heads to a machine shop and have a valve job done and new guides put in it. Out of the box heads are NEVER right from the manufacturer, even AFR's.
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F8LSN8K
Member # 7080
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posted
quote: Originally posted by vpr_klr:
Remember, bigger is not better when it comes to cams.
not neccasarly...for example, take a ls1 and put in a ms4 cam.....pulls like a mother fucker!!!!! like damn!!!
and the ms4 is a big ass cam!!!! ya its for a ls1, but still a very big cam......
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vpr_klr
Member # 3353
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posted
Again, if you like just slapping parts together, be my guest. Off the shelf cams with huge numbers are great for people who don't really know what they are doing.
Yes it will pull, but so does a gt-40 headed motor with an e-cam. That doesn't dictate overall power output and drivability. Spend some time in an engine dyno room, you might LEARN something.
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F8LSN8K
Member # 7080
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posted
well im sorry if im not a dyno tech and work on cars and shit...i just know things here and there.....oh and plus.....just cuz a car has hella power doesnt mean that u will be faster...... [ February 26, 2007, 11:45 PM: Message edited by: F8LSN8K ]
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JohnB
Member # 969
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posted
So you're looking at maybe 9.2-1cr...it doesn't need a huge cam. Anything crazy, you'll lose a load-o-torque. My vote is for a 266xe or the Powermax 2031. If you want great drivability, go with the latter...
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73beast351c
Member # 5397
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posted
how will it run if i put an f cam with 1.6 roller rockers.
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HaulinAss Motorsports
Member # 541
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posted
quote: Originally posted by 73beast351c: how will it run if i put an f cam with 1.6 roller rockers.
The cam is designed for a 1.6 rocker which is the stock ratio.you can pull a lil more out of it with a 1.7 rocker.I have had ALOT of good luck with the F-Cam,old technolgy some may say but power is power
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uh0h50
Member # 3125
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posted
is anyone running this set up and can you tell me how much hp your gettin from it. Please Thanks
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JohnB
Member # 969
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posted
You may want to decide on a cam, we can all give you better estimates from that.
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uh0h50
Member # 3125
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posted
f cam please
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asskickn88
Member # 4957
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posted
quote: Originally posted by 73beast351c: how will it run if i put an f cam with 1.6 roller rockers.
I have a set of 1.7's and am looking to trade for some 1.6's if your interested. They are pedistal mount and only have around 1K miles on em.
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93PONY
Member # 60
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posted
If smog is not a problem, notch the pistons & get a camshaft with more overlap. Overlap = power...no matter how you slice it.
XE cams will make the most TQ/HP given the size of the cam, so look at those for OTS grinds....they'll always be your best bet. But be aware that they are inverted flank lobes & require stiff valvesprings to control the valvetrain. Plan on a valvespring/retainer upgrade when going with an XE camshaft.
We've had good luck with these OTS grinds: XE264HR (great idle, smogable, clears pistons) XE270HR XE266HR XE258HR XE274HR (may or may not clear stock pistons....depends on the heads) Comp 280HR (224/224 110LSA, .560/.560 w1.6's) more power than any 'alfabet' cam, but will require valvespring upgrade. Comp 286HR (requires piston notching & valvespring upgrade. 230/230 110LSA, .598/.598 w/1.6's) This cam makes a TON of power when in the right setup. Went 11.99 @114mph with a stock shortblock, Edelbrock Perfromers, RPM intake & shorty headers. X303 w1.6's.....can't really beat it for the price, clears the pistons when degreed in at 'straight up', idles good, & will pass smog....also easy on valvesprings compared to the others above. B303 w1.7's (basically the same as an X with 1.6's) Z303 Similar in overlap to the XE274HR, but less aggressive. Crane 2030/2031's work great for smogable setups, but a little small IMO if you're looking for 'max effort' out of the camshaft. Same with the X, Z, B & XE's smaller than the 274HR.
About the almighty LS1's.... Slap any camshaft in an LS1 & you'll get a crap-load of power. The problem is a lot of the 'big' cams are WAY too big for the setup & don't make shit for low/midrange TQ. Some of my smallest LS1 grinds are the fastest. 220/220 112LSA made 395RWHP with stock heads....224/222 113LSA made 396RWHP with stock heads.....229/226 112LSA made 405RWHP with stock heads......etc, etc. The kicker is that the TQ curve was stupid flat like a stock LS1 cam (lots of low end). If you want a powercurve like a 2stroke hitting it's powerband but has nothing down low, get a big F'in camshaft.....but you can get nearly as much top end with a LOT more bottom end from the correct sized bumpstick. (given the application). [ February 28, 2007, 07:39 PM: Message edited by: 93PONY ]
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2stangs69-91
Member # 1951
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posted
with my stock 5.0 short block GT40X heads a E cam and 1.7's I had to notch the pistons. The intake valves were enough bigger than stock with the extra lift and duration it was to close to hitting to chance it.
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93PONY
Member # 60
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posted
quote: Originally posted by 2stangs69-91: with my stock 5.0 short block GT40X heads a E cam and 1.7's I had to notch the pistons. The intake valves were enough bigger than stock with the extra lift and duration it was to close to hitting to chance it.
That's a good point. Every setup is different, what clears on one setup may not clear on another. It's always a good idea to check piston to valve clearance.
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COPFITY
Member # 1845
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posted
quote: Originally posted by 93PONY: If smog is not a problem, notch the pistons & get a camshaft with more overlap. Overlap = power...no matter how you slice it.
XE cams will make the most TQ/HP given the size of the cam, so look at those for OTS grinds....they'll always be your best bet. But be aware that they are inverted flank lobes & require stiff valvesprings to control the valvetrain. Plan on a valvespring/retainer upgrade when going with an XE camshaft.
We've had good luck with these OTS grinds: XE264HR (great idle, smogable, clears pistons) XE270HR XE266HR XE258HR XE274HR (may or may not clear stock pistons....depends on the heads) Comp 280HR (224/224 110LSA, .560/.560 w1.6's) more power than any 'alfabet' cam, but will require valvespring upgrade. Comp 286HR (requires piston notching & valvespring upgrade. 230/230 110LSA, .598/.598 w/1.6's) This cam makes a TON of power when in the right setup. Went 11.99 @114mph with a stock shortblock, Edelbrock Perfromers, RPM intake & shorty headers. X303 w1.6's.....can't really beat it for the price, clears the pistons when degreed in at 'straight up', idles good, & will pass smog....also easy on valvesprings compared to the others above. B303 w1.7's (basically the same as an X with 1.6's) Z303 Similar in overlap to the XE274HR, but less aggressive. Crane 2030/2031's work great for smogable setups, but a little small IMO if you're looking for 'max effort' out of the camshaft. Same with the X, Z, B & XE's smaller than the 274HR.
About the almighty LS1's.... Slap any camshaft in an LS1 & you'll get a crap-load of power. The problem is a lot of the 'big' cams are WAY too big for the setup & don't make shit for low/midrange TQ. Some of my smallest LS1 grinds are the fastest. 220/220 112LSA made 395RWHP with stock heads....224/222 113LSA made 396RWHP with stock heads.....229/226 112LSA made 405RWHP with stock heads......etc, etc. The kicker is that the TQ curve was stupid flat like a stock LS1 cam (lots of low end). If you want a powercurve like a 2stroke hitting it's powerband but has nothing down low, get a big F'in camshaft.....but you can get nearly as much top end with a LOT more bottom end from the correct sized bumpstick. (given the application).
thanx! tons of information
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