T O P I C R E V I E W
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st5150
Member # 51
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posted
My stock motored 5.O is sick. Its down on a lot of power. It idles like it has a very mild aftermarket cam in there and the exhaust note doesn't quite sound right. It has a mild rapid stutter on acceleration, however at 3,000 RPM steady cruise, the motor is extremely smooth as usual. On the freeway at 1600 RPM, when I try to accelerate, the stutter is the worste. The EEC gives me no codes. It runs like this with the MAF unpluged. The TPS is fine. I can't hear/trace any vaccum leaks at all. The motor revs up freely and fine as usual. It has new plugs in it. 9 degrees initial timing and runs on 87 octane.
I'm thinking
-burnt spark plug wire
-damaged spark plug electrode
-bent push rod
-blown intake gasket
I'm hoping its something simple, but who knows with a 230,000+ mile motor. Any suggestions before I start wrenching on it tomorrow?
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Blown Mystic
Member # 476
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posted
id start by checking the plugs and testing the wires and coil voltage
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shade-tree
Member # 298
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posted
bent pushrod makes a shitload of noise bro (trust me, I've been there) n-e-wayz why not start with the 15 minute tune up? plugs, wires, cap/rotor, fuel-filter?
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rr_mustang
Member # 888
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posted
I have encountered the same problem. Are you running catylatic converters? One or more might be plugged. A clogged or blocked cat will give you the same symptoms that you mentioned.
Try an off-road h-pipe or another one to verify.
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st5150
Member # 51
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posted
Blown Mystic-The coil is a definate possibility now that I think about it more and more.
shade-tree- What about an intake gasket leak? Funds don't allow for a 15 minute tune up. Got an extra set of wires, coil and other random stuff lying around? Maybe I can stop by tomorrow and plug and chug different parts until its fixed?
rr_mustang-Its not the "cats" for sure
It hasn't been a good month for the LX.... ignition switch, alternator/battery and now this. I guess I can't complain, I've put 99,000 miles on it and except for a dead battery, it has always made it from point A to point B except for two times that was my fault.
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ONELOWSPLITBUMPR
Member # 2067
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posted
sounds like a fuel filter to me, but i am no "professional mechanic" id check that first, i bet that makes a big ole difference
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shade-tree
Member # 298
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posted
sawson, I have a spare set of plug wires, a spare cap (no extra rotor), and I'm almost positive a set of E7TE plugs too (probably couple sets, lol) I'm in Sac in the AM picking up a rear end from John McClesky, but will be back around 3pm? either that or 9am before I go? lemme know.
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st5150
Member # 51
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posted
ONELOWSPLITBUMPR- fuel delivery problems will only show under high load/high RPM's. Even a clogged filter will pass enough fuel for part throttle acceleration under 3000 RPM.
shade-tree- Thanks. After 3 works perfectly for me.... gives me time to trouble shoot on my own first. Check this post for updates.
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rob
Member # 50
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posted
pull plug wires while the car is running to find out if it's one particular cylinder causing the problem, if not, i'd suspect fuel filter/pump failure
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chosen1
Member # 1906
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posted
try the cheap easy stuff first, fuel filter, plugs, wires, shit like that. when you are low on funds go to kragen and get all that stuff, when you get to the register offer the dude 20 bucks to put your stuff in a bag and let you walk out, no receipt -he keeps your twenty. i used to work at kragen and made a ton of money that way. i know there are still some people sensitive to the racer's budget out there...
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st5150
Member # 51
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posted
update: Replaced the cap and rotor which didn't change anything, but the injector balance test blamed cylinder 3. I'll check for a messed up injector/wire/spark plug on that cylinder as soon as the headers and heads cool down.
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rob
Member # 50
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posted
quote: offer the dude 20 bucks to put your stuff in a bag and let you walk out, no receipt -he keeps your twenty.
no wonder parts are so expensive!
good luck, sawson!
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st5150
Member # 51
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posted
Thanks for the advice everyone. Turns out my #3 wire melted and was constantly shorted against a ground. Since it was resting against the ground, I couldn't hear the spark. I felt the wire at least two times and couldn't feel a thing. I finally unpluged it and took a look and it was clearly burnt to the core. I'm glad it was somthing simple. So far this month I've taken care of the mystery fuel pump not turning on problem. Replaced a dead alternator and found a burnt plug wire that has been causing my car to run relatively poor for a few weeks. Now I have to fix the slight hesitation/possible lean condition in my powerband and I'll be set.
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shade-tree
Member # 298
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posted
Back to high 13 second land?
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st5150
Member # 51
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posted
quote: Originally posted by shade-tree: Back to high 13 second land?
Hey, its cozy and reliable here in 13 second land, not to mention a one way ticket to 12 second land is expensive
Actually if I'm back in 13 second land, it won't be in the 100+ mph club. Around 4400 RPM power fades away and kinda bucks back, but not as strong. Now that I have the burnt plug wire variable removed, I'll be able to diagnose this small problem further.
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unfknblvbl89
Member # 1522
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posted
Sounds like I better check my plug wires as well I am have the same damn problem
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Cobra-Jeep
Member # 1482
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posted
have you guys run your codes?
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unfknblvbl89
Member # 1522
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posted
quote: Originally posted by Cobra-Jeep: have you guys run your codes?
Can I rent something to tell me my codes ?Maybe from Kragen or another auto parts store?
EDIT: Don't mean to jump your thread [ November 26, 2002, 08:53 AM: Message edited by: unfknblvbl89 ]
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st5150
Member # 51
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posted
You just need a piece of wire to check your codes:
http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html
www.corral.net/eec
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unfknblvbl89
Member # 1522
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posted
Well I changed my plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Then my oil and filter took it out on little test run and she didn't miss a heartbeat, when I removing the plug wires though I think I found the culprit. One of my wires fell on my header and burnt damn near in half.
Thanks for posting your problem, hell I would of never thought of bad plug wires.
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91sleeper
Member # 779
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posted
I need to just try to change my plug wires hopefully that will be it. Cause my popping stuttering only happens at high rpm like my ignition cant keep up.
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unfknblvbl89
Member # 1522
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posted
quote: Originally posted by 91sleeper: I need to just try to change my plug wires hopefully that will be it. Cause my popping stuttering only happens at high rpm like my ignition cant keep up.
mine basically happened at the same time as well or when I got stuck at a red light or behind some slow ass on the highway, but those changes fixed it. i put just over a 100 miles on her and it did just fine. Thank the good man above. If I had to spend many more 100$ at Kragen, then I just of well saved my money and put a down payment on a new stang.
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