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Author
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Topic: rear control arm question!
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Saleen 00-768
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Member # 9379
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posted
 
 
so i got non adj upper and lower race craft tubular control arms and they are poly bushed.
my question is could i have my upper arms re bushed with rubber bushing?
my reason for wanting to do this is because i herd that the poly on the uppers can cause binding. im not worried about straight line performance as my intrest is more in the corner carving.
is this a good idea and is it worth doing even though they are already installed, and would this idea help me in taking on hard corners?
i really dont want to replace my control arms because they are pretty new.
any input is very much appreciated. thanks guys!
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'00 Saleen SC #768
'90 GT
'90 California Edition (sold)
'87 Saleen #264 (sold)
Posts: 1664 | From: NOR✯CAL | Registered: Aug 2009
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50 Deep
Jockin 03 Cobras
Member # 6216
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posted
If you really want the best for corners ur better off installing a torque arm/panhard bar setup that will delete the upper control arms anyway.
If you leave in the poly bushings I would definitely look into getting your upper torque boxes welded up. if the control arms were off the car I could see it being a good idea to swap the bushings. Me personally I would leave em if they are already installed but I'm getting lazy
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Posts: 6043 | From: sacramento | Registered: Nov 2005
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Saleen 00-768
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Member # 9379
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posted
would i need to get both the torque arm AND panhard bar to delete the the uppers or could i get jus the panhard bar set up?
(i was already kinda checkin it out)... thas y im askin.
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'00 Saleen SC #768
'90 GT
'90 California Edition (sold)
'87 Saleen #264 (sold)
Posts: 1664 | From: NOR✯CAL | Registered: Aug 2009
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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posted
The upper control arms can only be removed if a Torque Arm & Panhard bar are installed.
Here is a good explanation of a torque arm/ panhard bar setup taken from Maximum Motorsports site.
quote:
With the Mustang's stock 4-link design, the rear upper control arms are trying to do two jobs at once--control axle windup and locate the axle side to side. When a Mustang is pushed towards its current performance limit, the upper control arms don't do either job very well. The MM Torque-arm Suspension System separates the functions of the Mustang rear suspension components-each component now has only one job to do, and is designed to perform that one function without compromise. The MM Torque-arm has to control only axle rotation, and the MM Panhard Bar only has to locate the axle side to side. The Torque-arm and Panhard Bar perform these functions much better than any style of upper control arm. The MM Torque-arm Suspension System (which includes the MM Torque-arm, MM Panhard Bar, and MM Rear Lower Control Arms) allows for the complete removal of the rear upper control arms and the quad shocks. The Torque-arm's 3-link style of design will articulate freely--even during extreme cornering, acceleration, and braking. The result is more grip.
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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Saleen 00-768
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Member # 9379
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posted
thanks for the info!
another question i have, does either the panhard bar or torque arm use the old upper control arm mounts that connect to the body (stock upper torque box)?
because my upper torque box is already in bad shape (i noticed this BEFORE i installed my control arms) so my plan was to have it reinforced BUT if maximum's kit doesnt use these mounts i will save my money and just buy the torque arm panhard bar kits and get rid of those upper arms
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'00 Saleen SC #768
'90 GT
'90 California Edition (sold)
'87 Saleen #264 (sold)
Posts: 1664 | From: NOR✯CAL | Registered: Aug 2009
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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posted
The torque arm has its own crossmember that attaches to the subframe connectors, & the other side of it attaches to the diff. The panhard bar attaches to the rear subframe & the axletube on the driver side. The upper torque boxes will no longer be used. Keep in mind though that a TA/PHB setup is not cheap. You will also need a set of full length subframe connectors.
Here is a pic of the setup... The torque arm is the long bar that runs along the trans tunnel.
Panhard bar...
Torque arm...
[ January 08, 2010, 02:53 AM: Message edited by: EPIK ]
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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Saleen 00-768
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Member # 9379
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posted
yea the kit on maximums website is around 800$ for both,
...my only problem now is the fact that my subframe connectors arent full length ones, my 5.0 cames stock with race craft susp. and it has the tubular race craft connectors installed..i kinda dont wana get rid of em cus there original but i guess its worth it for what i would be upgrading it with =)
how hard is the install?
welding required?
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'00 Saleen SC #768
'90 GT
'90 California Edition (sold)
'87 Saleen #264 (sold)
Posts: 1664 | From: NOR✯CAL | Registered: Aug 2009
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Saleen 00-768
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Member # 9379
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posted
i think my subframes mite work by looking at the picture but idk...
so basically full lengths just run a lil further down the frame rail then regular subrame connectors??
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'00 Saleen SC #768
'90 GT
'90 California Edition (sold)
'87 Saleen #264 (sold)
Posts: 1664 | From: NOR✯CAL | Registered: Aug 2009
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by sneakyfox90:
yea the kit on maximums website is around 800$ for both,
...my only problem now is the fact that my subframe connectors arent full length ones, my 5.0 cames stock with race craft susp. and it has the tubular race craft connectors installed..i kinda dont wana get rid of em cus there original but i guess its worth it for what i would be upgrading it with =)
how hard is the install?
welding required?
Welding is involved to install the tabs for the TA crossmember, but everything else bolts in with the exception of drilling a few holes in the rear subframe for the panhard bar hardware. The install is a little involved, & time consuming, but an average mechanic could install most of it if they had the right tools.
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by sneakyfox90:
i think my subframes mite work by looking at the picture but idk...
so basically full lengths just run a lil further down the frame rail then regular subrame connectors??
Yup, full lengths run from the very front of the subframe to right before it goes over the axle. You are gonna want full lengths, & I think they are required for the setup anyhow?
Your subframes are probably just bolt in anyway?
[ January 09, 2010, 01:15 PM: Message edited by: EPIK ]
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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Saleen 00-768
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Member # 9379
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posted
nope they are welded in. tubular. i had a pair of kenny brown subframe connectors welded in back in the day on my old stang (the gold ones with the seat support) and they look roughly about the same length
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'00 Saleen SC #768
'90 GT
'90 California Edition (sold)
'87 Saleen #264 (sold)
Posts: 1664 | From: NOR✯CAL | Registered: Aug 2009
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