|
Author
|
Topic: It never freaking ends!
|
93PONY
Mr. Valve Events
Member # 60
|
posted
 
 
Gotta pull the tranny/bellhousing/flywheel to track down a damn oil leak! It's either the rear main or the oil pan at the rear.
I also have to pull the motor AGAIN to fix another oil leak at the turbo assembly!
Not only that, but the car is running super hot. Engine temps are fine thanks to the fluidyne, but the engine compartment is really heat soaked! I keep melting taylor ignition wires! The car is running really rich. I think that raw fuel is heating up the manifold. Kinda like when you run retarded ignition timing. Un-burnt fuel burns off in the exhaust manifolds & makes them super hot!
.....Argh! I just want to enjoy driving her. I'm tired of spending my weekends on the garage floor.
Good thing I have till October before the dyno-tune. Still gotta break this bitch in!
--------------------
www.advancedenginedevelopment.com
SCT dealer
Dynotuning
(916)715-7569
Posts: 4265 | From: Fair Oaks, CA | Registered: Nov 2000
| :
|
|
93PONY
Mr. Valve Events
Member # 60
|
posted
On the good side the car runs freakin' AWESOME! Anything over 1/3 throtle & I get 3-4psi instantly! Pulling 18 inches of vacuum at idle & pulls hard in 4th at 0 boost. Looks like I did something right. ![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
--------------------
www.advancedenginedevelopment.com
SCT dealer
Dynotuning
(916)715-7569
Posts: 4265 | From: Fair Oaks, CA | Registered: Nov 2000
| :
|
|
FordPny
¯
Member # 510
|
posted
thermo wrap the turbos that should take care of your melting problems.
![[patriot]](graemlins/patriot.gif)
--------------------
Holla at yoo boooyyy
Posts: 2458 | From: San Jose CA | Registered: Oct 2001
| :
|
|
93PONY
Mr. Valve Events
Member # 60
|
posted
Thermo wrap isn't an option. It'll keep the heat in yes, but it also stesses the manifold more & can cause it to crack. Special boots for the wires are an option, but both of these are band-aids. The car never used to run this hot. I'd like to find the problem & I think it's in the tune.
--------------------
www.advancedenginedevelopment.com
SCT dealer
Dynotuning
(916)715-7569
Posts: 4265 | From: Fair Oaks, CA | Registered: Nov 2000
| :
|
|
FordPny
¯
Member # 510
|
posted
are you buy any chance spooling up faster than before????
--------------------
Holla at yoo boooyyy
Posts: 2458 | From: San Jose CA | Registered: Oct 2001
| :
|
|
93PONY
Mr. Valve Events
Member # 60
|
posted
Oh yeah. It's hard to stay OUT of boost.
--------------------
www.advancedenginedevelopment.com
SCT dealer
Dynotuning
(916)715-7569
Posts: 4265 | From: Fair Oaks, CA | Registered: Nov 2000
| :
|
|
FordPny
¯
Member # 510
|
posted
I dont undrestand how a bad tune would affect the heat under the hood, i mean unless ur glowing headers I dont see why your getting hotter,
Are your turbos water and oil cooled??
just trying to help
--------------------
Holla at yoo boooyyy
Posts: 2458 | From: San Jose CA | Registered: Oct 2001
| :
|
|
93PONY
Mr. Valve Events
Member # 60
|
posted
I appriciate the help. If nothing else it could make me think about something I haven't already.
Well, the exhaust manifold is under pressure on a turbo car. Running retarded (even 15 degrees) will make the manifolds glow because the fuel is finishing burning off in the manifold. So, I figure if I'm running excessively rich I'm definately throwing un-burnt fuel into the manifold, which is under pressure & can actually ignite the mixture causing the manifolds to heat up. Not to the extent of running super retarded, but enough to increase temperatures by a few hundred degrees. This would also HELP spool the turbos faster as the ignition would increase velocity of the exhaust.
Think it's possible?
The turbos are oil and water fed.
--------------------
www.advancedenginedevelopment.com
SCT dealer
Dynotuning
(916)715-7569
Posts: 4265 | From: Fair Oaks, CA | Registered: Nov 2000
| :
|
|
FordPny
¯
Member # 510
|
posted
Sounds very possible and your probably right, so have you tried messing with the timing? and how do you feed the engine fuel under boost.
The reason I didnt think of the tune was becuase I always here about turbos melting plastic parts in engine compartments (atleast in 5.0's) so I didnt think of it as anything else
Im going to have to figure out a way to keep the temp down in my compartment also ![[Frown]](frown.gif) But thank god I have a single setup on my 50 hehe one less turbo to worry about.
--------------------
Holla at yoo boooyyy
Posts: 2458 | From: San Jose CA | Registered: Oct 2001
| :
|
|
93PONY
Mr. Valve Events
Member # 60
|
posted
That's what I keep hearing. It's normal. Bull! With the stock engine & turbos my compartment was NO HOTTER than a stock 5.0 w/headers.
My timing is now at 8 degrees initial which should be plenty to keep this thing cool. I think the problem is that I'm running 36lb injectors & since I'm not using boost, it's running rich. Hell, I can smell the fuel just after startup! The Incon mass-airs also tend to run on the rich side. Most don't get chips for these cars so it's better to error on the rich side.
One of my problems has always been too rich down low, & too lean up top (actually too much compression). I know a dyno tune/chip burn will cure this & I have an appointment with Byron in a month. But, I'd like to narrow down the possibilities before the tune.
Weird thing is this car is running richer than with the stock motor. I cleaned ALL my grounds, cleaned the mass-air, set the TPS to .968888888888888885, ect. FP is at 40 & I guess I'll try lowering it next. Just don't want to run out up top either! (no FMU) Kind of a catch 22.
Ah well. I'll just keep dinkin' with it till I feel better.
I may end up removing the hood seal at the cowl. This'll let the stock hood let out the hot air like a cowl does. Another band-aid though...
Single turbo huh? What kit do you have? Any numbers on it? (dyno or track?) Hell, just tell me your whole setup!
BTW, check out this site: You may already know of it....
www.turbomustangs.com
--------------------
www.advancedenginedevelopment.com
SCT dealer
Dynotuning
(916)715-7569
Posts: 4265 | From: Fair Oaks, CA | Registered: Nov 2000
| :
|
|
FordPny
¯
Member # 510
|
posted
Really no hotter than a stock 5.0 ![[Eek!]](eek.gif)
ill be dammed
id love to come down to see the dyno tune if you dont mind
I have a cartech single t-70 kit on a stock 302(for know), I have to admit I havent thrown it together yet cuse Ive been working on my daily driver 2.3 turbo
My biggest concern is what to do about the computer and getting fuel for the car, Its even worse for me cuse im running Speed Density.
I think you have pretty much nailed the problem on the head, just make sure not to run lean I personally would rather run rich than lean.
Check out my site for pics and stuff
--------------------
Holla at yoo boooyyy
Posts: 2458 | From: San Jose CA | Registered: Oct 2001
| :
|
|
93PONY
Mr. Valve Events
Member # 60
|
posted
T70 on a stock 302! Damn that's kinda big! Aren't those things good for 900hp or something?
Sure, you can come on down for the dyno. It's on October 5th at noon at Apex.
Boy I don't envy you trying to get that thing running good.... Speed density is a bitch!
Posts: 4265 | From: Fair Oaks, CA | Registered: Nov 2000
| :
|
|
cobraman_1994
¯
Member # 467
|
posted
just drive with no hood on for the time being
--------------------
86 GT
Posts: 4882 | From: eldorado hills | Registered: Sep 2001
| :
|
|
93PONY
Mr. Valve Events
Member # 60
|
posted
Well the easy part is done. I replaced he rear-main seal...it was leaking. Piece of shit gasket on there, it only had one seal. The one I put on has 2 seals & the inner diameter is a little bit smaller.
It was actually a really easy job! ![[Razz]](tongue.gif)
[ August 31, 2002, 09:25 PM: Message edited by: 93PONY ]
--------------------
www.advancedenginedevelopment.com
SCT dealer
Dynotuning
(916)715-7569
Posts: 4265 | From: Fair Oaks, CA | Registered: Nov 2000
| :
|
|
White02GT
¯
Member # 611
|
posted
Legitimately, how hard was it to replace the rear main seal? I might take over my bro's old 86 GT, and it needs a new clutch and rear main seal. I'd rather not pay to have either done, so I'm looking at how hard they are to do at home.
--------------------
2002 Mustang GT 13.54 @ 102
"You can't out smart a smartass" Eminem
Posts: 1984 | From: Mountain View, Ca | Registered: Dec 2001
| :
|
|
JoeT
¯
Member # 298
|
posted
it's as easy as removing the H-pipe, transmission, bell and clutch and the proper rear main installation tool and then reinstalling all over the above.
couldn't be a better time to replace the clutch, either. I'd always recommend re-doing the rear main seal if it's got some miles on her or you suspect a leak.
--------------------
1984 Ford Tempo AOD--- RIP
Posts: 6785 | From: San Jose | Registered: Jun 2001
| :
|
|
White02GT
¯
Member # 611
|
posted
The car has about 130k miles on it, and as far as we know, it has the stock clutch still in it, and its getting a little old. Since the clutch needs to be changed, there is a suspect leak, so we figure they should be done at the same time.
--------------------
2002 Mustang GT 13.54 @ 102
"You can't out smart a smartass" Eminem
Posts: 1984 | From: Mountain View, Ca | Registered: Dec 2001
| :
|
|
93PONY
Mr. Valve Events
Member # 60
|
posted
I didn't even need a special tool to install the new seal.
Drilled a small hole in the old one, screwed in a screw & used a hammer to pry it out. Came out REAL easy. Course, it only has 40 miles on it!
To install the new one, I turned the old one backwards, placed it against the new one & tapped it in with a hammer.
The hardest part of the whole thing was getting the flywheel off. An impact wrench is the way to go, then you have to pry off the flywheel from the crank.
--------------------
www.advancedenginedevelopment.com
SCT dealer
Dynotuning
(916)715-7569
Posts: 4265 | From: Fair Oaks, CA | Registered: Nov 2000
| :
|
|
Stimson
_
Member # 51
|
posted
quote:
Originally posted by 93PONY:
I turned the old one backwards, placed it against the new one & tapped it in with a hammer.
Great idea! I'll have to try that trick next time.
A trick I use is one or two drywall screws intro the seal and pliers to pull them out. Saves on whipping out the drill.
Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000
| :
|
|
93PONY
Mr. Valve Events
Member # 60
|
posted
quote:
Originally posted by st5150:
quote:
Originally posted by 93PONY:
I turned the old one backwards, placed it against the new one & tapped it in with a hammer.
Great idea! I'll have to try that trick next time.
A trick I use is one or two drywall screws intro the seal and pliers to pull them out. Saves on whipping out the drill.
Ah.... I'll have to try that one if this thing still leaks!
Rear tranny seal was leaking too. Tried the screw trick & it just pulled it straight out! Ended up bending the lip down, grabbing it with vise-grips & using a screwdriver to pry the grips out.....pulled the seal right out!
Another trick we just learned:
When installing a new tranny, use old Head-bolts to line-up the tranny to the bell-housing. They're long enough to reach once you have the input shaft into the clutch. Once 2 bolts are in, the damn thing slides right in to the pilot bearing! Then use the normal bolts to tighten that mu-hucker down.
While lifting up the engine a bit with the hoist, the damn lower intake started leaking water! Had to replace the lower gasket.....what a PITA, especially with the water lines for the turbos feeding from the Thermostat area.
One day this thing WILL be done!
--------------------
www.advancedenginedevelopment.com
SCT dealer
Dynotuning
(916)715-7569
Posts: 4265 | From: Fair Oaks, CA | Registered: Nov 2000
| :
|
|
Email this post to someone!
Printer friendly view of this Ford topic
