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Author
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Topic: 95 Lincoln Mark 8 heater core??
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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How hard is it to do a heater core fix in a 95 Mark 8? Anybody on here do heater core replacement in those cars? If so, how much will it cost?
Im thinking about picking 1 up from a buddy for VERY cheap & using it as a dd. I think its a 95, its pretty damn clean, has 130k miles, runs great, & he only wants $500 for it. Even the air suspension is still good. The only pproblem with it is it needs a heater core.
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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bigjerry
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Member # 6033
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Pm fasthatch
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89 GT vert in progress ....
Posts: 433 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Sep 2005
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quickblue302
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Member # 7912
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
How hard is it to do a heater core fix in a 95 Mark 8? Anybody on here do heater core replacement in those cars? If so, how much will it cost?
Im thinking about picking 1 up from a buddy for VERY cheap & using it as a dd. I think its a 95, its pretty damn clean, has 130k miles, runs great, & he only wants $500 for it. Even the air suspension is still good. The only pproblem with it is it needs a heater core.
here ya go bro, this is from my stash http://www.markviii.org/index.html whatch you might fall in love with, I love them
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Eat rice it's good for you!
Posts: 624 | From: sac | Registered: Sep 2007
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by quickblue302:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
How hard is it to do a heater core fix in a 95 Mark 8? Anybody on here do heater core replacement in those cars? If so, how much will it cost?
Im thinking about picking 1 up from a buddy for VERY cheap & using it as a dd. I think its a 95, its pretty damn clean, has 130k miles, runs great, & he only wants $500 for it. Even the air suspension is still good. The only pproblem with it is it needs a heater core.
here ya go bro, this is from my stash http://www.markviii.org/index.html whatch you might fall in love with, I love them
'
I always liked the mark 8's as well. This 1 is pretty clean, just has a few minor door dings which could be fixed with a paintless dent repair guy,a tad bit of clearcoat peel on the roof, & the heater core issue, but other than that its nice. I wish it was the 96-98 model with the better headlights, but for $500 its a steal IMO...
What does it take to swap mustang wheels on them?
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
the bolt pattern is different so afaik it's a bit of a bitch, I tried to use the spare from a mark8 and the lugs are way off.
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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93ReefBlue5.0
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Member # 5780
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dustin, step 1 buy newcastle. step 2 take dash out. step 3 replace heater core. step 4 drink more brew.
Posts: 1535 | From: Sacramento, CA | Registered: Jun 2005
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 93ReefBlue5.0:
dustin, step 1 buy newcastle. step 2 take dash out. step 3 replace heater core. step 4 drink more brew.
Cmon Mike, I got the Newcastle ice cold & ready as soon as your ready to come on by... ![[Wink]](wink.gif)
[ March 07, 2010, 01:11 AM: Message edited by: EPIK ]
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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BIGBALLFACTOR
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Member # 7277
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by bigjerry:
Pm fasthatch
i don't if you trying start shit or not .
epik i can do it for you 300 bucks or 150 an you help me do it plus parts
Posts: 6908 | From: okc | Registered: Dec 2006
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by fasthatch:
quote:
Originally posted by bigjerry:
Pm fasthatch
i don't if you trying start shit or not .
epik i can do it for you 300 bucks or 150 an you help me do it plus parts
Cool, thanks. If I get the car, I will hit you up.
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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How do you know when the air ride bags are going bad on these cars? I know the car didn't sag at all, but it felt pretty "floaty" on the road. I know these are luxury cars, so they are supposed to have a soft ride, but I have never been any other Mark 8, so I don't know how they feel when new.
Do they have shocks & struts, or are the shock & air bag 1 piece?
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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BIGBALLFACTOR
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Member # 7277
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
How do you know when the air ride bags are going bad on these cars? I know the car didn't sag at all, but it felt pretty "floaty" on the road. I know these are luxury cars, so they are supposed to have a soft ride, but I have never been any other Mark 8, so I don't know how they feel when new.
Do they have shocks & struts, or are the shock & air bag 1 piece?
yes the have struts an shocks the rears are bags plus shocks an the front are struts an bags together
Posts: 6908 | From: okc | Registered: Dec 2006
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by fasthatch:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
How do you know when the air ride bags are going bad on these cars? I know the car didn't sag at all, but it felt pretty "floaty" on the road. I know these are luxury cars, so they are supposed to have a soft ride, but I have never been any other Mark 8, so I don't know how they feel when new.
Do they have shocks & struts, or are the shock & air bag 1 piece?
yes the have struts an shocks the rears are bags plus shocks an the front are struts an bags together
Ok, thanks. I just did some reading on this setup, & I think the rear bags on my buddys car do have a leak becaues the car was hella low in the back when it was sitting prior to the car being started, but after starting it & driving it around, the ride height was back to normal.
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
that mark8 that I parted out had a coil spring conversion done to it, I sold the setup for about $300 which is a lot cheaper than new air springs, they sell them on ebay for about double that or less brand new from what I remember.
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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Luke87GT
Lay'n more stripes
than Caltrans
Member # 21
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posted
Dustin, run for the hills, lol.
That suspension is an expensive time bomb. When it goes, it explodes with your money flying all over the place.
That was an automotive mistake on my resume, lol.
Posts: 7802 | From: San Mateo | Registered: Jul 2000
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quickblue302
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Member # 7912
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imo, The Mark viii's "air ride" suspension will last 100k or more with proper maintenance. The air ride is just about bullet proof. Doing a coil swap takes the cool factor away from the Mark, it's like taking the s/c off the 03/04 cobra it just would not be the same car,think about it 1300$ for new air ride every 100k thats not bad at all considering that the Mark is one of the coolest cars on the road. ![[patriot]](graemlins/patriot.gif)
"naa i hate Markviiis lol" ![[Razz]](tongue.gif)
Posts: 624 | From: sac | Registered: Sep 2007
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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Thanks for the info guys. I am gonna look at the car a bit deeper this week. I want it because of the comfort factor more than any other reason, but I have always liked the way they looked.
I read up on the suspension & it also seems that the upper control arms on the front end are a commonly replaced high mileage item as well. The car ran good, but man was the suspension soft & floaty as hell. Also, the rear suspension had a loud clunk when hitting bumps. I will most likely take it out on a longer drive sometime this week... For $500, you really can't go wrong though IMO...
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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quickblue302
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Member # 7912
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posted
HERE IS SOME INFO.
What to look for before Buying a 1997 – 1998 Mark VIII
Exterior:
Be sure to take a look at both headlights with them turned on. If the low beam seems discolored or different colored then the other one, there is a problem with the HID bulb, and it will need replacing soon. Bulbs for these cars cost anywhere from $150 - $250, so it is something you want to check out.
Check the rear wheel openings. There was a rubber “protection” strip placed around the edge of it from the factory that collects moisture and dirt. Pull it back and check for any signs of rust. Even low mileage and southern cars can get rust back in this area.
If the car is equipped with the chrome 10 spoke design wheels, look around the center caps for bubbling or peeling of chrome. It was very common for these wheels to get corrosion in the hubs and spread outwards, causing the chrome to peel or flake off.
With the headlights on and in as dark of an area as possible, take a look at the rear neon strip on the truck lid. It is a common problem that it will not light up correctly or at all. They also can get moisture in them and appear to be discolored, or not light up completely. New replacements are over $600, with good used ones selling for $300 - $400, so it is good to check it out first.
Interior:
If the car is equipped with heated seats, be sure to test them both to make sure they work. The elements in the seats can be easily damaged if somebody kneels on them, breaking the fragile circuits in the heat pads. The pads themselves aren’t really expensive, but they have been discontinued from Ford and finding new ones will not be easy.
Check to make sure the heater works, even if it is the middle of summer. The blend door motors on the Gen2 Mark VIII’s are notorious for breaking, leaving you without heat. While the part is inexpensive at $30, the labor to change it is much more. If you have a dealership replace it, you will be looking at $500 - $800 in repair costs. You can do it yourself, but plan on at least 8 – 10 hours for a first time attempt. Either way, when replacing the blend door it is crucial to make the simple modifications listed on <a href="http://www.markviii.org" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">www.markviii.org</a> so that you are not pulling your dash apart again next year.
Check to make sure the steering column functions as it should. It is a common problem that the steering wheel won’t move in or out, or up and down on these cars. It could be as simple as a new position sensor, or more complex issue such as a new multifunction switch, or a steering column rebuild. The multifunction switches are fairly expensive, in the $200 - $300 range. There was a TSB published by Ford that included the installation of cables to keep the steering column from over extending. While more difficult to check, if you have a chance to take the car overnight, drop the lower trim panel and take a look to see if there are two cables there.
Check the cup holder! This is possibly one of the most common things broken on these cars, and it is one of the more expensive things to replace. If you have to replace it, try and find a good used one. Used ones sell anywhere from $200 - $400. I have even seen on used black one on eBay sell for $900. New from the dealership they are almost $1400, so you can see why they bring so much.
Check to see if the car has all the floor mats and key fobs, esp. on LSC models. It is nice to have the factory mats, and they are no longer available from Ford. A good set of used mats sells for $50 - $100, with LSC mats being harder to find. Key Fobs can be purchased used, but will cost $20 - $30 each.
Drivetrain:
The things to check as far as drivability are pretty much the same as any other car. Drive the car with the radio turned down so you can hear what it is doing. Get a good feel for the car at all speeds. Drive around town; take it out the freeway, etc. A good test drive should be at least 20 miles or more with a variety of driving. There are a few things to check more closely on a Mark VIII.
Take a look at the transmission fluid. It should be a nice light red – bring pink color. If it is a yellowish or dark red - brown color, it needs to be changed! I would suggest having the dealer or seller change it and drive the car again before buying it. If it has never been changed, esp. on a higher mileage car, problems can show up after it is changed. On a side note, the 1998 models came with a slightly better VB in the transmission. If it is a 1997, ask them if the 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator pistons have been changed to the new updated style that were listed in the Ford TSB.
Check for any excessive vibrations. These will most likely show up in the rear view mirror. The 1994 – 1998 Mark VIII’s came with a 2 piece driveshaft that was very prone to vibration issues. Some start to show up as early as 40mph, with most appearing in the 60 – 75mph range. A few don’t have any issues, but most due. This can be greatly reduced by installing a 1 piece shaft from a 1993 Mark VIII, or eliminated by installing an MMX driveshaft from DynoTech. A used shaft will run around $100, with the MMX unit price $450 - $500.
Be sure to take a close look at the air suspension system. Just because the center panel in your dash says “Air Ride Okay” doesn’t mean that it really is. If the car is located at a dealership, drive by at night or first thing in the morning before they are open to see if the car sinks at all over night. If you just show up to drive it and they know you are coming, they might run the car to get it to pump back up to normal height before you arrive. Most air leaks don’t show up until 12 – 24 hours after the car has been parked. If the car seems to be sitting high, there might be a problem with the valves venting properly. Also look to see that it sits even when parked and while running. The air compressors do make some noise. If it is excessively loud, it will need replacing soon. Also, while driving the car, keep and ear out for the compressor. If it seems to be running a lot, there is most likely an issue somewhere. Repairs can vary greatly when it comes to suspension issues, ranging in cost anywhere from $100 - $1000. You can remove the air ride and replace it with standard springs and shocks for $300 - $400 if desired. MARK VIII FTW ![[Eek!]](eek.gif) ![[worship]](graemlins/worship.gif)
[ March 08, 2010, 02:22 AM: Message edited by: quickblue302 ]
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Eat rice it's good for you!
Posts: 624 | From: sac | Registered: Sep 2007
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