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Author
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Topic: Can I please get some advice... Not sure what to do
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adower
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Member # 5955
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I recently threw a s-trim on my 93 cobra. Its got the basic setup for cobra parts (GT40 irons, cobra intake, etc).
With the s-trim I have got a power pipe, stock pullies making 10 lbs boost, 42lbs, bigger fuel rails, 255 pump, and a tune from BRG racing.
Recently I noticed that I started to have coolant puke from the radiator cap. Did a few tests and it looked like I had a blown head gasket. I went ahead and did a complete tear down. The head gasket was indeed blown.
At that time I decided to replace all the gaskets since it was apart (timing chain, intake gaskets, header gaskets, head gaskets). In addition I used ARP studs and got the heads milled so I knew they were flat as well as some clean up work. At the shop I took the heads to I was told that who ever put the heads together used the wrong retainers so I had them setup correctly.
Well today I went ahead and put everything back together. Set the timing to 10* with the spout out. I took the car out and do some easy miles. Everything seemed good. It ran with no hiccup. I decided to take it up to 4k a couple times smoothly, drove it for like 5 minutes maximum. Pull the car back in so I could check under the hood. Unfortunately, there is coolant all over the engine bay.
What I find usual is that the car does not get hot. The temp will go up 2 lines and sit there. I am not sure this makes any difference.
As of now I am stuck and have no idea what it could be. I dont hear any detonation or pinging at all. Can I possibly blow a head gasket that fast? Could it be the tune I got from BRG racing?
The only thing I could think of is maybe its a bad radiator cap. I went ahead and ordered a stant and that should be here soon.
Does anyone have any ideas?
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98 Cobra
Griggs
S Trim
HRE
Posts: 3327 | Registered: Aug 2005
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
pressure test the system again
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.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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adower
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Member # 5955
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by turbo50:
pressure test the system again
If it comes up as a blown head gasket what else should I look in to? Would it most likely be the tune or could it be the block? This is my first time ever dealing with something like this.
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98 Cobra
Griggs
S Trim
HRE
Posts: 3327 | Registered: Aug 2005
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2stangs69-91
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Member # 1951
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posted
what head gasket did you go with?
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69 Mustang on hold
1991 LX hatch getting a make over
1994 F150 4X4 351
2006 Yamaha V-max 1200 Modded
Posts: 3711 | From: Redding | Registered: Oct 2002
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by adower:
quote:
Originally posted by turbo50:
pressure test the system again
If it comes up as a blown head gasket what else should I look in to? Would it most likely be the tune or could it be the block? This is my first time ever dealing with something like this.
Lee racer x on here has REAL WORLD experience with the deck issue on HIS GT40 heads or lifting one or something. Contact him.
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.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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2stangs69-91
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Member # 1951
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posted
since I have actualy run a strim for over 6 years and still own one I have just a little real world exp also. How about you dan? have you ever actualy run a S-trim on your personal car and tuned it?
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69 Mustang on hold
1991 LX hatch getting a make over
1994 F150 4X4 351
2006 Yamaha V-max 1200 Modded
Posts: 3711 | From: Redding | Registered: Oct 2002
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adower
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Member # 5955
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 2stangs69-91:
what head gasket did you go with?
I ran felpro 9333's. A lot of people recommended them.
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98 Cobra
Griggs
S Trim
HRE
Posts: 3327 | Registered: Aug 2005
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BIGBALLFACTOR
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Member # 7277
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 2stangs69-91:
since I have actualy run a strim for over 6 years and still own one I have just a little real world exp also. How about you dan? have you ever actualy run a S-trim on your personal car and tuned it?
i have a s-trim an blow many head gasket on them
the problem lee had was the gt 40 heads deck was not thick enough for the boost he was running but it was alittle over 10 psi.to the op check the cooling system for leaks
Posts: 6908 | From: okc | Registered: Dec 2006
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adower
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Member # 5955
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posted
I am running 10lbs of boost. A lot of people are saying the same thing you are. It is a lot easier to blow HG's with them.
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98 Cobra
Griggs
S Trim
HRE
Posts: 3327 | Registered: Aug 2005
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BIGBALLFACTOR
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Member # 7277
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by adower:
I am running 10lbs of boost. A lot of people are saying the same thing you are. It is a lot easier to blow HG's with them.
my blownhead gasket most of the time came from have bad grounds were do you live at
Posts: 6908 | From: okc | Registered: Dec 2006
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adower
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Member # 5955
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posted
I live in rancho cordova. The car is located in vacaville.
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98 Cobra
Griggs
S Trim
HRE
Posts: 3327 | Registered: Aug 2005
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BIGBALLFACTOR
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Member # 7277
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by adower:
I live in rancho cordova. The car is located in vacaville.
if you need some help look at i can sometime this week
Posts: 6908 | From: okc | Registered: Dec 2006
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2stangs69-91
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Member # 1951
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posted
10 lbs of boost, With 10 deg timming no spout should not have been a issue. Did you use the ARP suplied Moly lube? What did you tourqe the heads to? on most my superchatged engines I will go a little extra on the tourqe and tighten the longer bolts about 5 aboove the shorter ones. I think ARP actualy includes the instructions to do this with the studs.
I just re-read your post did you set the timming at 10 then put the spout back in for your road test? If you did you are running to much timming. that should put you at close to 26 degrees total. With out a intercooler or a water meth-kit that is asking for trouble. Do you still have a timming retard box(BTM) or are you just realing on the tune?
[ January 17, 2010, 02:44 AM: Message edited by: 2stangs69-91 ]
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69 Mustang on hold
1991 LX hatch getting a make over
1994 F150 4X4 351
2006 Yamaha V-max 1200 Modded
Posts: 3711 | From: Redding | Registered: Oct 2002
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adower
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Member # 5955
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by fasthatch:
quote:
Originally posted by adower:
I live in rancho cordova. The car is located in vacaville.
if you need some help look at i can sometime this week
That would be cool. I am not sure there is much you can do though? The car is already spitting coolant out the radiator cap. So that means I will have to do the gaskets again right?
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98 Cobra
Griggs
S Trim
HRE
Posts: 3327 | Registered: Aug 2005
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2stangs69-91
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Member # 1951
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posted
sure sounds like it. You might have a air lock in your cooling system but I doubt it.
[ January 17, 2010, 02:48 AM: Message edited by: 2stangs69-91 ]
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69 Mustang on hold
1991 LX hatch getting a make over
1994 F150 4X4 351
2006 Yamaha V-max 1200 Modded
Posts: 3711 | From: Redding | Registered: Oct 2002
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adower
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Member # 5955
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 2stangs69-91:
10 lbs of boost, With 10 deg timming no spout should not have been a issue. Did you use the ARP suplied Moly lube? What did you tourqe the heads to? on most my superchatged engines I will go a little extra on the tourqe and tighten the longer bolts about 5 aboove the shorter ones. I think ARP actualy includes the instructions to do this with the studs.
I just re-read your post did you set the timming at 10 then put the spout back in for your road test? If you did you are running to much timming. that should put you at close to 26 degrees total. With out a intercooler or a water meth-kit that is asking for trouble. Do you still have a timming retard box(BTM) or are you just realing on the tune?
I used the supplied moly lube. Lots of it, like 4 packets. The heads are torqued to 75lbs on the top and 70lbs on the bottom per the manual I had.
I set the timing like this: Car running, I pulled the spout out and set to 10*. After that I put the spout back in and ran the car down the street. I have a BTM box that is set for 1* of timing per pounds of boost as well as a tune. I should be pulling 10* timing out (1* per lb of boost) ending up with 16* total right?
What should I set timing at with the spout out? Everywhere I read people said to start with 10* with the spout out. Obviously, that didnt work for me though.
![[Frown]](frown.gif)
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98 Cobra
Griggs
S Trim
HRE
Posts: 3327 | Registered: Aug 2005
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2stangs69-91
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Member # 1951
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posted
Well the first thing you have to do is verify the BTM is working correctly. I regulate my air compressor down to the boost pressure(10 psi) hook it into the btm line. Pull my spout run the timming at 10 deg engine ideling.. set the btm to 1 then add 10 psi to the btm. recheck the timming make sure it is pulling out the correct amount. Set it to 2 add pressure recheck and so on.. Some BTMs will only pull 15 degrees. Plus mine was not completely accurate with the dial. I would also veryify your total timming at 3000 with the spout in and BTM set at 0 see what it is. With your set up I would not push it much over 20 degrees total.
All that being said I always just ran mine set to the total timming I wanted and left the spout out. I used the btm to adjust from there. If it was really hot out or I wasnt running great fuel I would set the btm to 2 or so just for cruising around. When ever you wanted full power you just roll the knob to zero. This way I always had total control over the timming and the car started and ran great.
Hopefully your car is running good enough to do this with out spewing water. if you have to re do the head gaskets I would crank them down just a little tighter.
[ January 17, 2010, 06:06 AM: Message edited by: 2stangs69-91 ]
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69 Mustang on hold
1991 LX hatch getting a make over
1994 F150 4X4 351
2006 Yamaha V-max 1200 Modded
Posts: 3711 | From: Redding | Registered: Oct 2002
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asskickn88
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Member # 4957
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posted
Don't panic yet, you could have had a huge air pocket that caused it to get hot and blow out some coolant. I personally felt 10 degrees was a little high to start with, I would have started at like 5 and moved it up from there but if you haven't pushed it too hard I doubt it hurt anything. Make sure the thermostat either has the small air bleed in it or drill a tiny hole near the edge so it will allow the air to leave the engine and escape through the radiator.
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Three 540 Bimmers and a 5.0 Explorer.... got a Ford back in the stable!
It's time for the country to do what Obama's own father did.
Abandon him.
Posts: 6069 | From: Rocklin, Ca | Registered: Oct 2004
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adower
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Member # 5955
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 2stangs69-91:
Well the first thing you have to do is verify the BTM is working correctly. I regulate my air compressor down to the boost pressure(10 psi) hook it into the btm line. Pull my spout run the timming at 10 deg engine ideling.. set the btm to 1 then add 10 psi to the btm. recheck the timming make sure it is pulling out the correct amount. Set it to 2 add pressure recheck and so on.. Some BTMs will only pull 15 degrees. Plus mine was not completely accurate with the dial. I would also veryify your total timming at 3000 with the spout in and BTM set at 0 see what it is. With your set up I would not push it much over 20 degrees total.
All that being said I always just ran mine set to the total timming I wanted and left the spout out. I used the btm to adjust from there. If it was really hot out or I wasnt running great fuel I would set the btm to 2 or so just for cruising around. When ever you wanted full power you just roll the knob to zero. This way I always had total control over the timming and the car started and ran great.
Hopefully your car is running good enough to do this with out spewing water. if you have to re do the head gaskets I would crank them down just a little tighter.
Damn man! I just read to do it like this on corral if I had a BTM. I am so pissed at myself right now. Its like I wasted 9 hours of time . Thank you all for your help.
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98 Cobra
Griggs
S Trim
HRE
Posts: 3327 | Registered: Aug 2005
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adower
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Member # 5955
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by asskickn88:
Don't panic yet, you could have had a huge air pocket that caused it to get hot and blow out some coolant. I personally felt 10 degrees was a little high to start with, I would have started at like 5 and moved it up from there but if you haven't pushed it too hard I doubt it hurt anything. Make sure the thermostat either has the small air bleed in it or drill a tiny hole near the edge so it will allow the air to leave the engine and escape through the radiator.
I hope so also. I only drove the car for maybe five minutes maximum. You know how I drive the car also. I dont bang on it. I took it up to 4k a couple times but very smoothly. Grandma style LOL.
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98 Cobra
Griggs
S Trim
HRE
Posts: 3327 | Registered: Aug 2005
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
To answer your question Mike I have had about 8 s trim cars and one t trim car that made 630 hp.
That has nothing to do with the original post but maybe it will get you off my nuts.
Anyway with 10 degrees of base timing and a faulty btm I am sure you know that you are asking for trouble.
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.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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Cstang5.0
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Member # 4925
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posted
this sc set up use to be mine and i checked the btm when i had it and at 1 and 10psi it would take out 10 degree of timing and the most timing it would pull was 15. did they have the btm on 0 when You got the tune??
[ January 17, 2010, 12:28 PM: Message edited by: Cstang50 ]
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88 VERT slow sold
89 coupe stock ; )
02 yukon
05 focus
Posts: 1638 | Registered: Oct 2004
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Duncan Motors
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Member # 7045
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posted
like turbo 50 said in the very beginning presure test the cooling system, you could have one loose hose clap or anything, no offence to at all if this is your first time, prob a missalignd water pump gast or shoot could be a million things but prob somethin real simple, but you have to presure test the sytem get one of the tools that pump up the radiator and watch under the hood,you could have a lil leak at it wont over heat till you loose a lot of coolant.why change the gaskets if you dont even know where its leaking yet?
Posts: 6310 | From: Vallejo | Registered: Sep 2006
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street_illegal_stang
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Member # 1554
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posted
autozone rents out radiator pressure testers.
add coolant/water while the car in running,
let all the air bleed out possible.see if you getting bubbles creeping up through the radiator.
usually thats a tell that you have compression in you radiator. Hopfully its just a air pocket.
its not getting hot so thats a good sign
Posts: 1276 | From: Long Beach C.A | Registered: Jul 2002
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adower
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Member # 5955
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posted
Well I think my problem is that I am running 26* total timing with the iron heads. My BTM was pretty much at 0. I guess its all part of learning.
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98 Cobra
Griggs
S Trim
HRE
Posts: 3327 | Registered: Aug 2005
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