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Author
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Topic: 65 Mustang Suspension & Engine Question
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MustangNate
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Member # 4559
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posted
 
 
Hello everyone. I have a 65 Mustang that I am restoring. It originally came with a straight 6 and a cruise-o-matic tranny. I am naturally converting to a v8 and a stick. First off, I just happen to have a 460 big block sitting in my garage, which I would like to find it's way into the 65. Naturally I will have to get rid of the shock towers; I found a Mustang II with the complete front suspension in a local boneyard and can get it pretty cheap.
Does this sound do-able? I know there will be lots of measuring, cutting, measuring, tack welding, measuring, cutting, measuring, tack welding, and measuring. What else may be involved?
Are headers made for this or would I have to custom make my own? Oil pans? Motor mounts?
Thanks everyone.
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1989 Mustang LX Vert, 5.0 Auto
Posts: 1032 | From: Chico | Registered: May 2004
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uncle bill
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Member # 3953
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posted
it is do-able, alot of parts are available. think long and hard before start, do the research
Posts: 415 | From: antioch | Registered: Dec 2003
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MustangNate
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Member # 4559
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posted
I searched yahoo for anything about a 65/66 Mustang with a 460 and can't seem to find anything. Guess I'll continue the search! ![[Smile]](smile.gif)
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1989 Mustang LX Vert, 5.0 Auto
Posts: 1032 | From: Chico | Registered: May 2004
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Fostang
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Member # 3752
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posted
You may want to reconsider putting a 460 in your 65.
Unless of course you want it to fold in half.
but if your feeling adventursome the only option I see is a mustang II suspension.
I doubt notching your shock towers will be sufficient.
I did it on mine using the heidts cross member.
www.heidts.com
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67' Fastback TT 408
67' Camaro Lsx
64' Corvette Fuelie
57' Chevy Bel Air Lsx
68’ Pony Convertible
66’ Pony Coupe
Posts: 3011 | From: Stockton/Danville | Registered: Nov 2003
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MustangNate
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Member # 4559
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posted
What kind of TIG welder should I get for the job? Would a 110 welder work or do I have to use a 220? Any specs and prices of welders would be nice.
I want to install the Mustang II stuff myself, as well as a roll cage and subframes. Thanks!
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1989 Mustang LX Vert, 5.0 Auto
Posts: 1032 | From: Chico | Registered: May 2004
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
You might want to do a lot of measuring before you start cutting. The Mustang II IFS kits that most people install in their pre-'73 cars is a custom designed piece with a square tubing cross member.
The only thing that the actual Mustang II IFS setup and the retrofit kits have in common is the design of an upper and lower a-arm. most of the parts of the retrofit kit are stronger than the OEM cast parts.
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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MustangNate
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Member # 4559
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posted
I decided to go with either the Heidt's kit or the Autoworks kit. I also decided not to go with a 460. I have found websites referring to this and it just seems like it's more trouble than it is worth.
So I'm going to be looking into other engine combinations, such as maybe a 351w stroked to 427ci.
Does anyone have any ideas on the welder thing? Thanks alot everyone, I really appreciate the advice/answers/comments.
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1989 Mustang LX Vert, 5.0 Auto
Posts: 1032 | From: Chico | Registered: May 2004
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uncle bill
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Member # 3953
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posted
a bigger unit well handle all jobs, you can always adjust down. the 110 is nice and less expensive but has its limitations. sounds like you made a good choice not going with the 460.what is it that you want to do with the car
[ July 25, 2005, 02:51 PM: Message edited by: uncle bill ]
Posts: 415 | From: antioch | Registered: Dec 2003
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Joooestang66
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Member # 2828
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posted
I was thinking about doing a Mustang II front end on my 66' but decided against it. I really didn't want to trust my engine, subframe, frame rails, and overall intergrity of the car to a sheetmetal crossmember. You're better off going with a stroked or blown (or both) small block and a tubular suspension, like Global West or Total Control. If you do go the Mustang II route I'd have a professional weld that crossmember in place.
Posts: 581 | From: Elk Grove | Registered: May 2003
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MustangNate
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Member # 4559
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posted
I'm wanting a high performance street/drag car. Been debating between an EFI 5.7 and carb 460 since I got the car. lol
I decided that if I was going to go with a carb 460 then I wanted a roots blower strapped to it, but if I went with the EFI 5.7 then I wanted to go with a turbo setup.
I'd like a high 10-low 11 second car on pump gas.
quote:
Originally posted by uncle bill:
a bigger unit well handle all jobs, you can always adjust down. the 110 is nice and less expensive but has its limitations. sounds like you made a good choice not going with the 460.what is it that you want to do with the car
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1989 Mustang LX Vert, 5.0 Auto
Posts: 1032 | From: Chico | Registered: May 2004
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kwikrob
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Member # 835
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Joooestang66:
I was thinking about doing a Mustang II front end on my 66' but decided against it. I really didn't want to trust my engine, subframe, frame rails, and overall intergrity of the car to a sheetmetal crossmember. You're better off going with a stroked or blown (or both) small block and a tubular suspension, like Global West or Total Control. If you do go the Mustang II route I'd have a professional weld that crossmember in place.
I have a 67 mustang with a 460 in it. If you think the stock shock towers are safer than a rack and pinion, you're nuts. I had the 460 stuffed in there before with the shock towers and hated it. I ended up doing the rack and pinion and the car goes much straighter. The crossmember is 4 by 2 inch square tube steel. To be honest, do a stroked small block. the weight savings and weight transfer alone are worth it. if you go big block be prepared for: $2000 rack and pinion kit (you don't want to do 150 on 30 year old pinto parts), custom headers $1000 on up, $400 fox body oil pan, and no weight transfer unless the block touches or is into the firewall. not to mention stock hood will not fit, i have a 6 inch cowl on mine. good luck.
Posts: 382 | From: Bay Area | Registered: Feb 2002
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mnstruc
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Member # 5652
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posted
As for the welder...the 110 volt 100 to 135 amps units will work, however, you will need to make multiple passes and be very careful to get good penetration. If you are not an experienced welder, I would leave any suspension welding to a Pro as this is a very critical component of holding your car together, no matter what engine you wind up with. Do your learning on something less critical. If you insist on doing it yourself, get a 175 amp, Mig, 220 vt unit. These work very well for most any hobby welding you will ever do. And always use gas for a consistent, clean, deep weld.
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63 Fairlane 500
65 GT-1 Mustang Race Car
67 Mustang A code Coupe
68 Ranchero GT
72 Bronco Sport
03 Mustang GT
07 F-350 4x4 Dually Diesel
Posts: 95 | From: Sunnyvale, CA | Registered: May 2005
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92stangLX
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Member # 3252
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by kwikrob:
quote:
Originally posted by Joooestang66:
I was thinking about doing a Mustang II front end on my 66' but decided against it. I really didn't want to trust my engine, subframe, frame rails, and overall intergrity of the car to a sheetmetal crossmember. You're better off going with a stroked or blown (or both) small block and a tubular suspension, like Global West or Total Control. If you do go the Mustang II route I'd have a professional weld that crossmember in place.
I have a 67 mustang with a 460 in it. If you think the stock shock towers are safer than a rack and pinion, you're nuts. I had the 460 stuffed in there before with the shock towers and hated it. I ended up doing the rack and pinion and the car goes much straighter. The crossmember is 4 by 2 inch square tube steel. To be honest, do a stroked small block. the weight savings and weight transfer alone are worth it. if you go big block be prepared for: $2000 rack and pinion kit (you don't want to do 150 on 30 year old pinto parts), custom headers $1000 on up, $400 fox body oil pan, and no weight transfer unless the block touches or is into the firewall. not to mention stock hood will not fit, i have a 6 inch cowl on mine. good luck.
I agree. Seems to be a lot of trouble and $$$ to put a big heavy motor in the car. Why not just get a 351 and punch it out to 393 or 408? If it's setup right you should be able over 500hp.
Posts: 5302 | From: San Francisco | Registered: Sep 2003
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