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Author
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Topic: steering wheel questions.
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1Sicgt
CAFords OG
Member # 714
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posted
 
 
Ok, I am thinking about doing the whole quick disconnect set-up. What kind of wheel adapter do I need? Which is better, the push pin, or the roller ones? Also, how do you take the factory wheel off whithout setting off the airbags?
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14 Focus TS ST3 full Stg3, ready for bigger Turbo
2003 Cobra Track Car
Posts: 8145 | From: Hitting the Apex | Registered: Jan 2002
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1Sicgt
CAFords OG
Member # 714
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posted
anyone?
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14 Focus TS ST3 full Stg3, ready for bigger Turbo
2003 Cobra Track Car
Posts: 8145 | From: Hitting the Apex | Registered: Jan 2002
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mtbaughs
Road Racer
Member # 4052
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posted
There's only really two good ways of going about this. First off I'd suggest running a splined quick release. Sweet makes a good one. This will produce the least amount of slop within the wheel. I have the pin one on my race car and it is almost slop free but there is a touch of movement. At some point I am going to re-weld the splined version release onto a column designed to shrink down in a front end impact. This is important for a track car because I know of at least one person killed by using a solid column. Thats down the road since what I have will work well enough. Forget about anything made by Grant in the way of quick releases. They get super sloppy over time and shouldn't be considered on a car that see's any track time. So the two options are as follows. Buy the quick release with the 3/4" weld on adapter and weld it to your existing column or take a momo adapter hub and have something custom machined to adapt that into a quick release. The second one is tougher and more time consuming but allows for no welding. As far as the air bag is concerned I'd disconnect the battery and also remove the fuse for the air bag(s) just to be on the safe side. Most quick releases are designed for 3 bolt steering wheels. I just bought a 3 bolt momo for my car but there are many more wheels offered in the 5 or 6 bolt standard mounting. I/O port racing makes a machined adapter that converts from a 3 bolt to a 5 or 6 bolt wheel. This will bolt to the quick release and than adapt to the wheel of your choice. In most cases you lose the horn and cruise controls unless you go custom with what your doing.
Posts: 2019 | From: Boise, Idaho | Registered: Jan 2004
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1Sicgt
CAFords OG
Member # 714
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posted
So, this would work?
Black anodized billet aluminum hub with three 5/16" bolt holes
Push button style spring loaded non-removable pin
3/4" inside diameter steel sleeve that welds to the steering shaft.
Or is this the Momo one I should be looking for?
MOMO?
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14 Focus TS ST3 full Stg3, ready for bigger Turbo
2003 Cobra Track Car
Posts: 8145 | From: Hitting the Apex | Registered: Jan 2002
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mtbaughs
Road Racer
Member # 4052
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posted
The pin one pictured is much like the one I have on my race car. If I was to do it again I'd go with this one as a splined version will provide less slop like I mentioned. The steering column on my fox accepted the 3/4" weld on fitting perfectly. I can't say for certain with a newer mustang.
If you buy a 3 bolt wheel that is all you'll need if you have a welder handy. If you are not going with a 3 bolt wheel than you'll need this adapter to mate the wheel to the quick release.
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R.I.P. Charlie Bruno Dec 2001
Posts: 2019 | From: Boise, Idaho | Registered: Jan 2004
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mtbaughs
Road Racer
Member # 4052
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posted
You'll want to insure that when you weld on the fitting that the wheels are perfectly straight and that the steering wheel is in the perfect position. If your off than when you drive the steering wheel will not be pointed straight ahead when the car moves in a straight line. I imagine you could correct this somewhat with toe settings but it's better to just line things up ahead of time and not worry about it after it's welded for good.
Posts: 2019 | From: Boise, Idaho | Registered: Jan 2004
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