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Author
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Topic: Machining a wheel to change the offset?? Is it possible??
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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posted
 
 
Anyone know a good machine shop in the local sac area that can mill or machine the mounting pad of a wheel. Long story short, I need some FR500's with a 30mm offset, but they arent available in silver, so I am thinking about having 6mm-7mm milled off the mounting pad of my 24mm offset FR's to achieve this... Has anyone ever had this done, & is it safe... I could just get 2 new front wheels in black & have them paint matched to my silver rears, but this will cost well over $500 when all said & done, plus they might not be a perfect match & then I will have to get the rears painted too....
Anyone have any info or experience???
Thanks...
[ June 24, 2009, 11:35 PM: Message edited by: EPIK ]
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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93ReefBlue5.0
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Member # 5780
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posted
dustin, just call around to a few machine shops and see what they think. to me, it seems easy enough to set it up in a lathe and turn it, but im no machinist... is this for the front/rear of the mach?
Posts: 1535 | From: Sacramento, CA | Registered: Jun 2005
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 93ReefBlue5.0:
dustin, just call around to a few machine shops and see what they think. to me, it seems easy enough to set it up in a lathe and turn it, but im no machinist... is this for the front/rear of the mach?
Thanks Mike... its For the front... Long story short, the MM k member made the wheels stick out, so i installed 94 spindles (5mm narrower) to bring them back in, but this made the car have ridiculous bumpsteer from the geometry being way off & its really starting to bother me, so I am going to re-install my 03 spindles. But I dont want the wheels sticking out again....
Any recommendations for a good shop?
[ June 23, 2009, 01:07 AM: Message edited by: EPIK ]
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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93ReefBlue5.0
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Member # 5780
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by 93ReefBlue5.0:
dustin, just call around to a few machine shops and see what they think. to me, it seems easy enough to set it up in a lathe and turn it, but im no machinist... is this for the front/rear of the mach?
Thanks Mike... its For the front... Long story short, the MM k member made the wheels stick out, so i installed 94 spindles (5mm narrower) to bring them back in, but this made the car have ridiculous bumpsteer from the geometry being way off & its really starting to bother me, so I am going to re-install my 03 spindles. But I dont want the wheels sticking out again....
Any recommendations for a good shop?
you have adjustable rod ends, why don't you get bump steer measured and set in spec? it would just be the cost of a good alignment instead of machining costs/new wheels.
[ June 23, 2009, 01:23 AM: Message edited by: 93ReefBlue5.0 ]
Posts: 1535 | From: Sacramento, CA | Registered: Jun 2005
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 93ReefBlue5.0:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by 93ReefBlue5.0:
dustin, just call around to a few machine shops and see what they think. to me, it seems easy enough to set it up in a lathe and turn it, but im no machinist... is this for the front/rear of the mach?
Thanks Mike... its For the front... Long story short, the MM k member made the wheels stick out, so i installed 94 spindles (5mm narrower) to bring them back in, but this made the car have ridiculous bumpsteer from the geometry being way off & its really starting to bother me, so I am going to re-install my 03 spindles. But I dont want the wheels sticking out again....
Any recommendations for a good shop?
you have adjustable rod ends, why don't you get bump steer measured and set in spec? it would just be the cost of a good alignment instead of machining costs/new wheels.
Its not just that...
Ford redesigned the spindles when the mod motor was released because, with the lower oil pan of the modular, the steering rack was moved dow an inch... So basically my suspension is all out of wack in the front....
Here is the differences in the spindles... As you can see, there is almost 1" differences in the knuckle position. So combine that with a rack that is an inch lower, & you can see what would pose the problem...
[ June 23, 2009, 01:30 AM: Message edited by: EPIK ]
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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posted
TTT....
Anybody else have any info or have any shop recommendations??
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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50DADDY
CAFords OG
Member # 3076
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posted
Langills on 14th ave.
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"Im not stupid,i just act that way so i dont make you dummies uncomfortable."
"Old age and treachery shall overcome youth and skill."
Posts: 4827 | From: Suckramento | Registered: Jul 2003
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 50DADDY:
Langills on 14th ave.
Thanks Jeff...
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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ugotsmoked
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Member # 6069
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posted
You don't want them run on a lathe. They need to be set up on a mill. This will give you 100% flatness. It's the same type of machine when they surface heads and blocks.
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02 GT - Fully built and blown - RIP
'00 C5 Frc - Cammed and tuned - sold
66 Nova - Restored - 6.0 In the works
Posts: 1585 | From: Rocklin, Ca. | Registered: Sep 2005
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Notch1320
Man Pedal
Member # 2647
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posted
Could you split the difference, and remove some off the wheel, and some off the face of the rotor? If there is enough material on the rotor, you may be able to get away with removing at least some material. Of course the wheel studs would have to be removed and replaced, but I would think that would be the easiest, and cheapest. Besides, when it comes time to sell the wheels, they are not an odd set. Just a thought???
Posts: 2349 | From: Yuba City, CA | Registered: Mar 2003
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by 93ReefBlue5.0:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by 93ReefBlue5.0:
dustin, just call around to a few machine shops and see what they think. to me, it seems easy enough to set it up in a lathe and turn it, but im no machinist... is this for the front/rear of the mach?
Thanks Mike... its For the front... Long story short, the MM k member made the wheels stick out, so i installed 94 spindles (5mm narrower) to bring them back in, but this made the car have ridiculous bumpsteer from the geometry being way off & its really starting to bother me, so I am going to re-install my 03 spindles. But I dont want the wheels sticking out again....
Any recommendations for a good shop?
you have adjustable rod ends, why don't you get bump steer measured and set in spec? it would just be the cost of a good alignment instead of machining costs/new wheels.
Its not just that...
Ford redesigned the spindles when the mod motor was released because, with the lower oil pan of the modular, the steering rack was moved dow an inch... So basically my suspension is all out of wack in the front....
Here is the differences in the spindles... As you can see, there is almost 1" differences in the knuckle position. So combine that with a rack that is an inch lower, & you can see what would pose the problem...
afaik, the MM kit should be able to correct that, there's ton's of adjustment in that kit, all you really need to to is set it up so the ti-rods sit level compared to the steering rack when at static ride height.
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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Luke87GT
Lay'n more stripes
than Caltrans
Member # 21
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posted
You know Dustin, thinking about this, the MM kit should correct any problems you may have assuming its in correct adjustment.
You will need quite a bit of spacers, but the drill thru bump steer kit usually offer A LOT of adjustment.
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Stangless
Posts: 7802 | From: San Mateo | Registered: Jul 2000
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65mustang408
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Member # 8681
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posted
crackaway racing engines in elk grove off waterman. nice old man i was gonna do the same thing but im just gonna shorten the axle. they specialize in fords.
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fast and cool shit
Posts: 947 | From: sacramento | Registered: Oct 2008
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ugotsmoked
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Member # 6069
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 65mustang408:
crackaway racing engines in elk grove off waterman. nice old man i was gonna do the same thing but im just gonna shorten the axle. they specialize in fords.
+1 for crackaway. That dude is cool as hell. go in there with time on your hands, he likes to talk!
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02 GT - Fully built and blown - RIP
'00 C5 Frc - Cammed and tuned - sold
66 Nova - Restored - 6.0 In the works
Posts: 1585 | From: Rocklin, Ca. | Registered: Sep 2005
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STOCK GT
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Member # 5139
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posted
try wheel techniques i think they have/had a shop in sac. I know for sure the one in santa clara ca. is capable of doing it, they machined one of my wheels for me. With pulling off the tire and remounting and balancing they charged me $200.00
Posts: 104 | From: BAY AREA | Registered: Dec 2004
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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posted
Thanks for all the replys guys... I do have the bolt through spindle bumpsteer kit, but my car is so low that I already have all the spacers on the bottom. The car handles like crap with its current setup & with a full MM kit, it should be the opposite. I just think that 94/95 spindles arent meant to be ran with the 4.6 K member setup due to the location of the rack. Plus, I have my a arms set in the upper holes on the K member because of my low ride height...
I will look into the shop in Elk Grove that 65Mustang408 recommended.
STOCKGT, you have had this done to some wheels before? how did it work out for you?
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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Notch1320
Man Pedal
Member # 2647
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posted
Has Maximum Motorsports offered any assistance? Those guys are usuallywell versed on this from my past experience with them.
Posts: 2349 | From: Yuba City, CA | Registered: Mar 2003
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*EPIK*
¯
Member # 7481
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Notch1320:
Has Maximum Motorsports offered any assistance? Those guys are usuallywell versed on this from my past experience with them.
Yup... Those guys are super cool & always offer lots of advice & assistance. They told me to put the stock spindles back on & realign it. I could also mount the control arms in the lower holes, but this will make them angle upward quite a bit & IMO, would defeat the purpose of having the K member at all... My car is lower than they recommend though for optimum handling, but it should still handle good with it set up right...
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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Luke87GT
Lay'n more stripes
than Caltrans
Member # 21
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posted
Dustin part of the reason that you have to drop it so much to eliminate the fender gap is that your front tires are so short.
I know the 265/35 is a popular front tire choice, but these are big cars (sn95) and I prefer something a little taller which would mean you could have the same fender gap with less lowering
[ June 27, 2009, 09:47 AM: Message edited by: Luke87GT ]
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Stangless
Posts: 7802 | From: San Mateo | Registered: Jul 2000
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Luke87GT:
Dustin part of the reason that you have to drop it so much to eliminate the fender gap is that your front tires are so short.
I know the 265/35 is a popular front tire choice, but these are big cars (sn95) and I prefer something a little taller which would mean you could have the same fender gap with less lowering
So what size would you recommend for the front? 255/40 or a 275/35??
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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poisonpony96
¯
Member # 3942
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by Notch1320:
Has Maximum Motorsports offered any assistance? Those guys are usuallywell versed on this from my past experience with them.
Yup... Those guys are super cool & always offer lots of advice & assistance. They told me to put the stock spindles back on & realign it. I could also mount the control arms in the lower holes, but this will make them angle upward quite a bit & IMO, would defeat the purpose of having the K member at all... My car is lower than they recommend though for optimum handling, but it should still handle good with it set up right...
I had the same issue your having when i had my full setup. never had the front end adjusted but i just moved the control arms to the lower holes. The only issue i would say i had was the front end would break loose first. but like i said it was never adjusted at a shop. I think you on the right path though with trying to change offset on front rim and then put wider ones on when at track.
Posts: 1183 | From: San Jose | Registered: Dec 2003
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*EPIK*
¯
Member # 7481
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by poisonpony96:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by Notch1320:
Has Maximum Motorsports offered any assistance? Those guys are usuallywell versed on this from my past experience with them.
Yup... Those guys are super cool & always offer lots of advice & assistance. They told me to put the stock spindles back on & realign it. I could also mount the control arms in the lower holes, but this will make them angle upward quite a bit & IMO, would defeat the purpose of having the K member at all... My car is lower than they recommend though for optimum handling, but it should still handle good with it set up right...
I had the same issue your having when i had my full setup. never had the front end adjusted but i just moved the control arms to the lower holes. The only issue i would say i had was the front end would break loose first. but like i said it was never adjusted at a shop. I think you on the right path though with trying to change offset on front rim and then put wider ones on when at track.
Which issue did you have? The wheels sticking out, or bumpsteer issues?
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by Luke87GT:
Dustin part of the reason that you have to drop it so much to eliminate the fender gap is that your front tires are so short.
I know the 265/35 is a popular front tire choice, but these are big cars (sn95) and I prefer something a little taller which would mean you could have the same fender gap with less lowering
So what size would you recommend for the front? 255/40 or a 275/35??
according to:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
the stock size tires are 25.7" diameter
your tires (when new) are 25.3" diameter
so you'd be able to raise the front about a 1/2" with the stock size tires (275/35's will be .1" smaller than a 275/40/17)
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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*EPIK*
¯
Member # 7481
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by Luke87GT:
Dustin part of the reason that you have to drop it so much to eliminate the fender gap is that your front tires are so short.
I know the 265/35 is a popular front tire choice, but these are big cars (sn95) and I prefer something a little taller which would mean you could have the same fender gap with less lowering
So what size would you recommend for the front? 255/40 or a 275/35??
according to:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
the stock size tires are 25.7" diameter
your tires (when new) are 25.3" diameter
so you'd be able to raise the front about a 1/2" with the stock size tires (275/35's will be .1" smaller than a 275/40/17)
I currently have 265/35/18's, on an 18X9 wheel.... My stock size was a 245/45/17 on a 17X8 wheel....
[ June 27, 2009, 01:00 PM: Message edited by: EPIK ]
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by Luke87GT:
Dustin part of the reason that you have to drop it so much to eliminate the fender gap is that your front tires are so short.
I know the 265/35 is a popular front tire choice, but these are big cars (sn95) and I prefer something a little taller which would mean you could have the same fender gap with less lowering
So what size would you recommend for the front? 255/40 or a 275/35??
according to:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
the stock size tires are 25.7" diameter
your tires (when new) are 25.3" diameter
so you'd be able to raise the front about a 1/2" with the stock size tires (275/35's will be .1" smaller than a 275/40/17)
I currently have 265/35/18's, on an 18X9 wheel.... My stock size was a 245/45/17 on a 17X8 wheel....
245/45/17 is the same diameter as 275/40/17, both are stock size of 25.7" diameter ![[Smile]](smile.gif)
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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