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Originally posted by 93PONY:
FFP's #'s are known to be all over the map.
My TT put down a whapping 506RWHP on that dyno.....& ran 10.1 @134mph 2 weeks later with a raceweight of over 3650lbs.

That dyno has the capability of loading the car down significantly more or less than a dynojet. There's far more adjustment than most think....& yes, it most definately effects the tune (since it's tuned based on load tables) & #'s that it produces.

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Originally posted by EPIK:
So I finally got my car dyno tuned after the new mods. The numbers were decent, but I must say I am a bit dissapointed. My car put down 303 rwhp & 320 rwtq with an a/f ratio of 12.4-12.9 across the board. I think the timing is set @ about 19 degrees. This was on a Dyno Dynamics machine....

My mods are...
=Mac LT's
=Mac o/r H pipe
=Bassani catback
=C&L 85mm maf
=3/8" intake spacer

Do these #'s sound about right??

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Originally posted by 93PONY:
The knock sensor setup on the Mach1 is *touchy*...
It's very sensitive & has the capability to not only remove, but add timing as well!

The way I determine the timing on a Mach is to run the stock timing curve on an N/A setup & dial in the A/F till it's perfect. Then read the datalogs & see what the knock sensors are doing. If they're not pulling any timing, I'll add timing. If they're pulling timing at tip-in & not anywhere else, I'll adjust as neccessary. The timing curve is 'done' when the computer is neither adding nor removing any timing during the WOT dyno run.

With that being said, simply adding 4 degrees of timing with the hand-held will do virtually nothing since the computer will remove what it feels is neccessary in order to avoid knock.....& it saves the timing values (to avoid knock) in memory and applies them. In other words, if you run 87 octane at WOT & the computer senses knock & pulls 6 degrees of timing, the next time you go WOT with 91 octane it will still remove the 6 degrees of timing. (eventually it will add it back in, but it will do it slowly, over time)

However.....add some race gas, re-load the tune with 4 more degrees of timing & the car WILL respond. Re-setting the computer (by loading in a new program) will re-set the adaptive learning & you'll start out with the computer pulling zero timing.

Oh yeah....& dyno's are for tuning....nothing more.
The only #'s that matter are given to you after the 1/4 mile on the return road.

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posted                          

quote:

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Originally posted by EPIK:

quote:

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Originally posted by 93PONY:
The knock sensor setup on the Mach1 is *touchy*...
It's very sensitive & has the capability to not only remove, but add timing as well!

The way I determine the timing on a Mach is to run the stock timing curve on an N/A setup & dial in the A/F till it's perfect. Then read the datalogs & see what the knock sensors are doing. If they're not pulling any timing, I'll add timing. If they're pulling timing at tip-in & not anywhere else, I'll adjust as neccessary. The timing curve is 'done' when the computer is neither adding nor removing any timing during the WOT dyno run.

With that being said, simply adding 4 degrees of timing with the hand-held will do virtually nothing since the computer will remove what it feels is neccessary in order to avoid knock.....& it saves the timing values (to avoid knock) in memory and applies them. In other words, if you run 87 octane at WOT & the computer senses knock & pulls 6 degrees of timing, the next time you go WOT with 91 octane it will still remove the 6 degrees of timing. (eventually it will add it back in, but it will do it slowly, over time)

However.....add some race gas, re-load the tune with 4 more degrees of timing & the car WILL respond. Re-setting the computer (by loading in a new program) will re-set the adaptive learning & you'll start out with the computer pulling zero timing.

Oh yeah....& dyno's are for tuning....nothing more.
The only #'s that matter are given to you after the 1/4 mile on the return road.

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Since my car has the slight typical 32V valve tick noise coming from the driver head, The computer thought it was sesnsing knock & had it pulling about 8 degrees of timing out at WOT.It had to be that, because my car wasn't detonating at all???

We had to turn off the knock sensors for it to make the power it did??? With that said, is it safe to add anymore timing & run 91 octane???

There has to be more power potential in it???

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