Author
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Topic: Is this job quote right?
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CLEEN 50
CAFords OG
Member # 5867
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posted
So I just found out I have an oil leak coming from my valve covers and oil pan. The valve cover gaskets and oil pan gaskets need to be changed and I was quoted $500 from a shop. Is this correct? Is it suppssed to be this much? Can anyone here do this for much cheaper?
Thanks [ May 09, 2007, 04:11 PM: Message edited by: CLEEN 50 ]
-------------------- 91 GT (cafords reg date: 6/02)
Posts: 2534 | From: Peninsula | Registered: Jul 2005
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CLEEN 50
CAFords OG
Member # 5867
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posted
91
-------------------- 91 GT (cafords reg date: 6/02)
Posts: 2534 | From: Peninsula | Registered: Jul 2005
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
Find someone on here that does side jobs and has a lift and they will probably do it cheaper.
Me personally, on my back in my garage or driveway, would rather pull a motor than change a pan gasket with the motor in the car. Just not much room and a real bitch to do it and do it RIGHT on your back. Even with a one piece gasket.
-------------------- .........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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CLEEN 50
CAFords OG
Member # 5867
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posted
thanks it was a shop that quoted me. I want to get this done soon but dont want to fork out that kind of cash. Anyone?
-------------------- 91 GT (cafords reg date: 6/02)
Posts: 2534 | From: Peninsula | Registered: Jul 2005
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hidnn.o.s.
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Member # 1219
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posted
That is a "LOW" price from a shop.
Oil pan calls for, depending on trans, 3.5 - 4.1 hours alone of labor.
-------------------- R.I.P. Willie G. You are missed on this forum
Posts: 15950 | Registered: Apr 2002
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CLEEN 50
CAFords OG
Member # 5867
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posted
quote: Originally posted by hidnn.o.s.: That is a "LOW" price from a shop.
Oil pan calls for, depending on trans, 3.5 - 4.1 hours alone of labor.
What do you mean, LOW? It is the quote the mechanic gave me. I'm currently getting my oil, tranny, and coolant flushed and he pointed this out. Are you saying that is how much it is going to cost to replace them?
thanks [ May 09, 2007, 04:24 PM: Message edited by: CLEEN 50 ]
-------------------- 91 GT (cafords reg date: 6/02)
Posts: 2534 | From: Peninsula | Registered: Jul 2005
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Hele On
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Member # 4107
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posted
"Low" meaning "Good"... at least that's what I'm reading. Other shops would probably charge a higher price.
Posts: 224 | From: Bay Area | Registered: Feb 2004
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
He means that is a low quote for all of that work, from a shop.
See shops dont work like the hobbyist mechanics (or backyard mechanics if you want to be brutal) on here do.
They work pretty much from the labor books. They may have to quote a job that they have never done before and there are books that give them a pretty close estimate on how many hours a particular job will take...ie..how difficult it may or may not be.
When making your ONLY living that way you have to use that as a guide or you lose money.
So figure shop rate of $70-$130 an hour and go from there.
But if you find a hobbyist they usually do it on a per job basis. Much, much cheaper.
-------------------- .........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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CLEEN 50
CAFords OG
Member # 5867
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posted
quote: Originally posted by Hele On: "Low" meaning "Good"... at least that's what I'm reading. Other shops would probably charge a higher price.
Ahh I read it wrong. I understand now. My mechanic gave me that quote and I thought it was a bit high, but it seems like this is an extensive job and the quotes could possibly be higher else where. thanks hidnnos and everyone for clearing that up. Looks like I gotta fork out the cash.
thanks again everyone for the quick responses [ May 09, 2007, 04:34 PM: Message edited by: CLEEN 50 ]
-------------------- 91 GT (cafords reg date: 6/02)
Posts: 2534 | From: Peninsula | Registered: Jul 2005
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JohnB
Tech Moderator
Member # 969
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posted
My bet is it isn't your oil pan, it's a rear main seal.
-------------------- 1965 Shelby Cobra 1993 Cobra 2012 F150 Raptor 2020 GT500
Posts: 6523 | From: Orlando FL/Redding CA | Registered: Mar 2002
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CLEEN 50
CAFords OG
Member # 5867
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posted
quote: Originally posted by JohnB: My bet is it isn't your oil pan, it's a rear main seal.
thanks John I will tell him to double check it once I get there. Do you know anyone local that could do this job and do it right? I'm in San Mateo.
Thanks [ May 09, 2007, 04:41 PM: Message edited by: CLEEN 50 ]
-------------------- 91 GT (cafords reg date: 6/02)
Posts: 2534 | From: Peninsula | Registered: Jul 2005
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
I thought John B and Hidnnos do side jobs....ever thought of asking them a price on that??
-------------------- .........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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hidnn.o.s.
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Member # 1219
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posted
I prefer to do heater cores and would HIGHLY reccommend JohnB for EVERYTHING else!
Regardless of who does the work for you, MAKE SURE they use a factory 1 piece gasket. If not, you'll be paying for the same job a year later.
Sounds like your shop is taking care of you, but do have them toss some dye into the system for a bit to make sure it isn't the rear main.
-------------------- R.I.P. Willie G. You are missed on this forum
Posts: 15950 | Registered: Apr 2002
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HaulinAss Motorsports
Its a STREETRaceCar!
Member # 541
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posted
quote: Originally posted by hidnn.o.s.: Regardless of who does the work for you, MAKE SURE they use a factory 1 piece gasket. If not, you'll be paying for the same job a year later.
Definatly only use the Factory or Felpro Blue 1 Piece gasket.BTW Cleen 50 If you need this done give me a call
408-420-3003
Posts: 22487 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Nov 2001
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