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[QUOTE]Originally posted by bwkelley76: [QB] ...Steering lower shaft and u-joints. First I taped the steering wheel to the column in the exact center position (would have been better if I had a nifty centering stand like the alignment shops do). Then I centered the rack & pinion as well. Next I installed the u-joints and cut the provided DD shaft to length. Finally, I used loc-tite on the allen set screws and tightened everything up. [IMG]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i55/bwkelley76/242.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i55/bwkelley76/IMAG1796.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i55/bwkelley76/244.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i55/bwkelley76/245.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i55/bwkelley76/246.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i55/bwkelley76/247.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i55/bwkelley76/273.jpg[/IMG] Now it's time to install the bump-steer tie rod kit. First thing I had to determine is which holes I was to use for the inner tie-rods. The rack instructions say one thing and the bump-steer tie rod kit instructions say another. I determined that my car uses the inner ones. As far as the adjuster sleeves anti-seize is your friend so use it generously. At some point you will follow the directions in further detail to measure and eliminate bump-steer by moving around the bushings that make up the custom outer tie rod ends. For the initial setting I put the single largest bushing on the bottom and the combination of smaller ones on top, and made them equal on each side. The inner tie rods are a little tricky since there is nothing to keep them from spinning internally. In my case I peeled back the boots and grabbed the tie-rods from the very back-side. The other thing that is kindof tricky and/or easy to overlook is the cotter pins can rub the rack boots if you don't keep their profile low enough. [IMG]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i55/bwkelley76/256.jpg[/IMG] [/QB][/QUOTE]
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