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Author
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Topic: Thinking about attempting....
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Blown_gt
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Member # 10698
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posted
 
 
quote:
Originally posted by NEIGHT:
quote:
Originally posted by 89notchkid:
I did it even with gt40s
What pushrod length did you use for those?
I used stock ones for my gt40 ps and regular gt40 heads it ran fine with them but maybe cus I had stock roller rockers
Posts: 1363 | From: stockton | Registered: Feb 2011
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NEIGHT
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Member # 8741
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 2T0NE:
quote:
Originally posted by NEIGHT:
Yeah imma go buy a shitload of sandwich bags N label them so I know what bolts go where N gonna take piks throughout the whole thing. LOL on the finger comment I already got shit about that from two people on facebook, it happened because I was getting impatient with a simple task so I started doing shit fast N almost lost a finger. Learned my lesson for shure plus I wanna do it right so imma take my time putting it together.
excatly neight sandwich bags label everything and get all your torque specs written down ,if you need help lmk
Yeah I got 98Roush's kuzzin getting me all the torque specs kuz he has access to some shit.
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-Savage Habits-
1992 Summer Edition
1986 Hatch- catfish killer
1964 Impala hard top
Posts: 18536 | From: EA$T $IDE REDWOOD CITY | Registered: Nov 2008
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JZTRK
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Member # 7641
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posted
I only use use FELPRO part # 1011-1 for head gaskets
and you need TEN fingers not nine and a half for the swapp ![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
P.S how it the healing coming along
[ May 02, 2012, 12:18 AM: Message edited by: JZTRK ]
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ANY THING PAST FIRST AND IM BREAKING THE LAW !!!
1990 lx Hatch (sold) 2014 GT Track Pack (sold) 2016 GT350 (sold)
1 of 16 2019 kona blue GT350R
Posts: 771 | From: My 44 Magnum says HI | Registered: May 2007
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NEIGHT
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Member # 8741
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posted
Fel pro it is. Lol it's alright I'm pretty shure I can make it work. It's healing doesn't throb like a mofo all day no more, but it is still wide open for the most part.
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-Savage Habits-
1992 Summer Edition
1986 Hatch- catfish killer
1964 Impala hard top
Posts: 18536 | From: EA$T $IDE REDWOOD CITY | Registered: Nov 2008
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ISP89LX
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Member # 8949
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by NEIGHT:
quote:
Originally posted by 2T0NE:
quote:
Originally posted by NEIGHT:
Yeah imma go buy a shitload of sandwich bags N label them so I know what bolts go where N gonna take piks throughout the whole thing. LOL on the finger comment I already got shit about that from two people on facebook, it happened because I was getting impatient with a simple task so I started doing shit fast N almost lost a finger. Learned my lesson for shure plus I wanna do it right so imma take my time putting it together.
excatly neight sandwich bags label everything and get all your torque specs written down ,if you need help lmk
Yeah I got 98Roush's kuzzin getting me all the torque specs kuz he has access to some shit.
5.0L V8 1994-2000 specs
Component Torque
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt 40-45 ft. lbs.
Camshaft Thrust Plate Bolts 108-144 inch lbs.
Crankshaft Pulley-to-Vibration Damper Bolts 35-50 ft. lbs.
Cylinder Head Bolts Step 1 25-35 ft. lbs.
Step 2 45-55 ft. lbs.
Step 3 NOTE
Exhaust Manifold Bolts 26-32 ft. lbs.
Flywheel/Driveplate Mounting Bolts 75-85 ft. lbs.
Front Engine Mounting Bolts 72-98 ft. lbs.
Intake Manifold Bolts Step 1 96 inch lbs.
Step 2 16 ft. lbs.
Step 3 23-25 ft. lbs.
Main Bearing Cap Bolts 60-70 ft. lbs.
Oil Filter Insert-to-Engine Adapter Bolt 20-30 ft. lbs.
Oil Pan Mounting Bolts 110-144 inch lbs.
Oil Pick-up Tube-to-Main Bearing Cap Nut 22-32 ft. lbs.
Oil Pick-up Tube-to-Oil Pump Bolts 12-18 ft. lbs.
Oil Pump Mounting Bolts 22-32 ft. lbs.
Rocker Arm Fulcrum Bolts 18-25 ft. lbs.
Rod Bearing Cap Nuts 19-24 ft. lbs.
Thermostat Housing-to-Engine Bolts 12-18 ft. lbs.
Timing Chain Cover Bolts 12-18 ft. lbs.
Water Pump Bolts 15-21 ft. lbs.
Water Pump Pulley-to-Water Pump Bolts/Nuts 15-21 ft. lbs
Still double check everything and make sure everything is accurate but i got these torque specs from my cousin ![[patriot]](graemlins/patriot.gif)
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89LX
Turbo50built!!!
Wait, he jacked my shit!!!
"Dan will make It rite" THIEF!
Posts: 2997 | From: Nowhere to be found. | Registered: Feb 2009
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phil a
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Member # 6951
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posted
Are you planning on degreeing the cam? If you're doing dot-to-dot, just pull the radiator and put it in there, no use pulling the whole damn thing out if it's a straight-forward deal. you're young, won't hurt your back too bad.
labeling stuff works OK, picture's worth 1000 words though, so if it's your first time, wouldn't kill you to have a buddy over your shoulder with a digital cam, taking pics of each step. do it enough times, and you'll recognize where each nut/bolt goes. although that is a pretty depressing thought.
regardless, it's intimidating for the first time, but relatively straight-forward. if you got a buddy who's been through it once or twice, why not have him lookin over your shoulder
Posts: 1261 | From: toledo oh | Registered: Jul 2006
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Greasy
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Member # 5258
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posted
You'll also need a balancer remover. Do a lot of research on degreeing a cam, there are tutorials on YouTube about it. The front bumper cover won't have to come off for cam removal or install, just be careful not to nick your cam bearings up. Head gaskets only go on one way, they'll usually say "front" which faces up. When installing the head bolts put a dab of silicone on all of the lower bolts and a dab of 30W oil on the top bolts. Torquing the head bolts start in the center and work your way out using the proper torque steps.
I also have a tap that I'll run through all the head bolt holes in the block to clean them up for an accurate torque. Other then that it's pretty straight forward, do some research and keep track of everything.
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'93 Cobra-Coyote Powered
'03 DSG Cobra
'13 Dodge Cummins
'14 Rubicon X
Posts: 3272 | From: North Dallas | Registered: Jan 2005
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moeofit32
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Member # 10393
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posted
hit me if u need help i gotchu... the rite tools make the swap easier
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95 stroked and blown cobra
Posts: 2387 | From: antioch ca | Registered: Oct 2010
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FordRyderz510
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Member # 6771
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 2T0NE:
quote:
Originally posted by NEIGHT:
Yeah imma go buy a shitload of sandwich bags N label them so I know what bolts go where N gonna take piks throughout the whole thing. LOL on the finger comment I already got shit about that from two people on facebook, it happened because I was getting impatient with a simple task so I started doing shit fast N almost lost a finger. Learned my lesson for shure plus I wanna do it right so imma take my time putting it together.
excatly neight sandwich bags label everything and get all your torque specs written down ,if you need help lmk
+2 on the bags...just keeping everything organized and ready to put back together will be a way faster and better head-ache free way of figuring what bolts go where. Good luck with it and vids and pics to show thru the process
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Ford Ryderz -Est. 2003
88' GT
96' GT
97' Saleen #17
94' GT-Sold
Posts: 1894 | From: Hayward | Registered: May 2006
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Saleen 00-768
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Member # 9379
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posted
any bolts that you re use clean the threads very well
go over everything 2nd n 3rd time to make sure its tight and torqued to spec
keep the lifter valley coverd as much as possible
black rtv on the lower intake gaskets and u can use the felpro blue rubber end gaskets for the lower intake, on each end put a fat dab of rtv on the corner of the blue gasket and the head.
put a layer of rtv silicone with ur finger around the water ports on the head before laying the gasket down
[ May 02, 2012, 03:10 AM: Message edited by: sneakyfox90 ]
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'00 Saleen SC #768
'90 GT
'90 California Edition (sold)
'87 Saleen #264 (sold)
Posts: 1664 | From: NOR✯CAL | Registered: Aug 2009
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Secnd2nun64
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Member # 1431
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posted
Dont use a tap on any threads. Get yourself a thread restorer kit. Sears has a nice set and you'll use it more than you think. It's around $40 and well worth the small investment. It will clean and fix the threads instead of cutting new threads. I used cometic gaskets but the felpro gaskets will be fine too.
Good time to clean up the engine bay. Plenty of room while you have the heads off to degreaser and paint. Just take your time and do it right so you don't have to do it twice.
Posts: 1460 | From: CA | Registered: Jun 2002
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NEIGHT
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Member # 8741
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posted
Alright so what can I use to lube up parts? What head bolts do you suggest N where can I get them? I will try to clean up the whole motor as best as I can, but if(most likely)there is carbon on my pistons how can I clean them, or I should leave them alone?
Sorry I might ask a shitload of questions just to get as much info as I can before I attempt this. Plus I'd rather ask this site because fuckers on other sites think everyone was born with all the mechanic knowledge you need so they make smart ass remarks N shit. CAFORDS FTW
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-Savage Habits-
1992 Summer Edition
1986 Hatch- catfish killer
1964 Impala hard top
Posts: 18536 | From: EA$T $IDE REDWOOD CITY | Registered: Nov 2008
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v-town coupe
fordologist
Member # 2771
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by NEIGHT:
quote:
Originally posted by v-town coupe:
nobody in the car club can lend you a hand?
Yeah they all would but I'm really trying to accomplish this myself kuz I wanna be able to say I built my motor myself, give me a sense of accomplishment. See but I wouldn't mind some cam install help lol
ohh okay right on.
Posts: 4597 | From: the V-town | Registered: May 2003
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NEIGHT
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Member # 8741
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posted
TTT any more info/ tips?
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-Savage Habits-
1992 Summer Edition
1986 Hatch- catfish killer
1964 Impala hard top
Posts: 18536 | From: EA$T $IDE REDWOOD CITY | Registered: Nov 2008
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NEIGHT
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Member # 8741
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posted
So I think I need
-Pullie puller
-balancer remover
-ARP head head bolts
-Fuel line removal kit
-Assembly lube
Anyone where I can get this stuff? Websites maybe?
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-Savage Habits-
1992 Summer Edition
1986 Hatch- catfish killer
1964 Impala hard top
Posts: 18536 | From: EA$T $IDE REDWOOD CITY | Registered: Nov 2008
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arodeast408
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Member # 11335
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by NEIGHT:
So I think I need
-Pullie puller
-balancer remover
-ARP head head bolts
-Fuel line removal kit
-Assembly lube
Anyone where I can get this stuff? Websites maybe?
Kragens for most of the things and arps just online
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99 Trans Am (GM INC)
1996 Mustang Gt (sold)
Posts: 340 | From: some where in the bay | Registered: Oct 2011
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arodeast408
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Member # 11335
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by arodeast408:
quote:
Originally posted by NEIGHT:
So I think I need
-Pullie puller
-balancer remover
-ARP head head bolts
-Fuel line removal kit
-Assembly lube
Anyone where I can get this stuff? Websites maybe?
Kragens for most of the things and arps just online
O an a spring compressor tool for the valve springs
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99 Trans Am (GM INC)
1996 Mustang Gt (sold)
Posts: 340 | From: some where in the bay | Registered: Oct 2011
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NEIGHT
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Member # 8741
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posted
What do I need to touch the valve spring for?
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-Savage Habits-
1992 Summer Edition
1986 Hatch- catfish killer
1964 Impala hard top
Posts: 18536 | From: EA$T $IDE REDWOOD CITY | Registered: Nov 2008
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Duncan Motors
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Member # 7045
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posted
lol u got all the help in the world on this list of folks already!!! tear that shit apart!!!!! whats your combo? and well see if u need a degree wheel or push rod length.
Posts: 6310 | From: Vallejo | Registered: Sep 2006
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by NEIGHT:
So I think I need
-Pullie puller
-balancer remover
-ARP head head bolts
-Fuel line removal kit
-Assembly lube
Anyone where I can get this stuff? Websites maybe?
You also need:
-Torque wrench (you mentioned you didn't have one)
-Complete gasket kit (you will essentially replace almost every gasket in the engine doing a head swap and cam swap)
-Blue Loctite
-RTV sealant
-Oil (when you pull the intake and heads, it's hard to drain 100% of the coolant out and some gets into the oil, so you need to change it)
-Coolant
-Haynes repair manual (don't rely on a message forum to do something as complex as this. You should really have one if you plan on working on any car yourself anyway)
-Timing chain (if you're running the original timing chain, it's good insurance to replace it)
If you plan are truly degreeing the cam, you will also need:
-Degree wheel
-Dial indicator & stand
-Piston stop
-Wire coat hanger (to make a degree wheel pointer)
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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NEIGHT
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Member # 8741
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posted
For NOW I'm gonna run:
-Edelbrock performer upper/lower
-GT40P heads (until I find some good aluminum heads)
-B303 Cam
-BBK bolt-ons
Is it hard to upgrade my timing chain?
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-Savage Habits-
1992 Summer Edition
1986 Hatch- catfish killer
1964 Impala hard top
Posts: 18536 | From: EA$T $IDE REDWOOD CITY | Registered: Nov 2008
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NEIGHT
¯
Member # 8741
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by wilit:
quote:
Originally posted by NEIGHT:
So I think I need
-Pullie puller
-balancer remover
-ARP head head bolts
-Fuel line removal kit
-Assembly lube
Anyone where I can get this stuff? Websites maybe?
You also need:
-Torque wrench (you mentioned you didn't have one)
-Complete gasket kit (you will essentially replace almost every gasket in the engine doing a head swap and cam swap)
-Blue Loctite
-RTV sealant
-Oil (when you pull the intake and heads, it's hard to drain 100% of the coolant out and some gets into the oil, so you need to change it)
-Coolant
-Haynes repair manual (don't rely on a message forum to do something as complex as this. You should really have one if you plan on working on any car yourself anyway)
-Timing chain (if you're running the original timing chain, it's good insurance to replace it)
If you plan are truly degreeing the cam, you will also need:
-Degree wheel
-Dial indicator & stand
-Piston stop
-Wire coat hanger (to make a degree wheel pointer)
No I do have torque wrenches 3/8" N 1/2" do I need bigger ones?
I will get all the gaskets this upcoming week. I will get that blue loctite N RTV sealant this weekend. Yeah I kinda figured I would have to, I just changed those out like 2 weeks ago too. I'll lookup the manual kuz my uncle gets them for his cars N it helps out a lot. I heard I will have to rent some sort of tool for the sprocket so I can upgrade the chain is this true? I think I'll just do that dot-to-dot since I finally fully understand how to do it.
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-Savage Habits-
1992 Summer Edition
1986 Hatch- catfish killer
1964 Impala hard top
Posts: 18536 | From: EA$T $IDE REDWOOD CITY | Registered: Nov 2008
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norcalfiddy
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Member # 11207
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by NEIGHT:
Is it hard to upgrade my timing chain?
no, it will be off anyways when you swap the cam out.
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600HP 1996 7.3L powerstroke single cab short bed race truck
Posts: 3393 | From: Brentwood | Registered: Aug 2011
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NEIGHT
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Member # 8741
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by norcalfiddy:
quote:
Originally posted by NEIGHT:
Is it hard to upgrade my timing chain?
no, it will be off anyways when you swap the cam out.
I know but do I have to change out the crank sprocket too when I upgrade the chain?
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-Savage Habits-
1992 Summer Edition
1986 Hatch- catfish killer
1964 Impala hard top
Posts: 18536 | From: EA$T $IDE REDWOOD CITY | Registered: Nov 2008
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