Author
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Topic: MM Full Length Subframe Connectors are on (Pics included)
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Luke87GT
Lay'n more stripes than Caltrans
Member # 21
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posted
quote: Originally posted by turbo50: Can you please pm me his (quicksparks) phone number. Thanks.
Dan
PM sent.
-------------------- Stangless
Posts: 7802 | From: San Mateo | Registered: Jul 2000
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
got it, thanks Luke.
-------------------- .........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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QuickSparks
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Member # 8826
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posted
Hi All,
Thanks for the compliments that have been given. Feel free to PM me directly to discuss your project and to get a quote.
I strongly prefer to do the work in my shop in Benicia, but I can make house calls if your location meets a few requirements.
Posts: 27 | From: Benicia | Registered: Dec 2008
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phil a
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Member # 6951
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posted
Looks good. I may be mistaken, but I always thought that the rear end had to be removed from the car before welding up axle tubes to ensure that everything was at a perfect 90 to each other
Posts: 1261 | From: toledo oh | Registered: Jul 2006
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Luke87GT
Lay'n more stripes than Caltrans
Member # 21
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posted
quote: Originally posted by phil a: Looks good. I may be mistaken, but I always thought that the rear end had to be removed from the car before welding up axle tubes to ensure that everything was at a perfect 90 to each other
Yes, the tubes were welded up with the rearend in the car and the suspension unloaded. Many people have told me to never attempt to weld without a jig where a metal rod slides through each axle tube to keep it straight. Although that is the best way to do it, keep in mind that the axle tubes slide into the differential housing by something like 2-3inches.
Knowing this, we tacked the tube to the housing in 3 regions, 120-degrees apart, and connected them with beads. Once one bead was laid, we went to the other side to let the first side cool. Everything turned out well.
The key is to go slow... Lay down the tacks to keep everything together and keep it cool.
-------------------- Stangless
Posts: 7802 | From: San Mateo | Registered: Jul 2000
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QuickSparks
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Member # 8826
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posted
This is a customer's Ford 9 inch differential housing from a 65 Mustang. These things did not come stock with any way to drain the oil, so the customer had a bung welded in the bottom with a pipe plug so he could easily drain the oil.
![-](http://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq132/mr_andrew_spencer/Welding/IMG_5599800x600.jpg)
When he was lifting the car, the jack pressed on the welded bung, which put a lot of stress on the ¼” plate that the differential housing is made of and deflected it inward. As a result, the bung was misaligned from the housing. I used a rosebud tip to heat the plate around the bung, then banged it out with a hammer to straighten it. Here's what it looked like when it was crooked:
![-](http://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq132/mr_andrew_spencer/Welding/IMG_5598800x600.jpg)
This is the piece of ¾” steel plate that I fabricated to support the load of the car when using a jack to lift under the differential housing.
![-](http://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq132/mr_andrew_spencer/Welding/IMG_5616800x600.jpg)
Here is the jacking plate fitup before welding:
![-](http://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq132/mr_andrew_spencer/Welding/IMG_5624800x600.jpg)
Here is the jacking plate TIG welded in place.
![-](http://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq132/mr_andrew_spencer/Welding/IMG_5646800x600.jpg)
![-](http://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq132/mr_andrew_spencer/Welding/IMG_5644800x600.jpg)
Posts: 27 | From: Benicia | Registered: Dec 2008
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phil a
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Member # 6951
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posted
I'm sitting here smiling like an idiot - look at that fab works and the welds!!
Awesome
Posts: 1261 | From: toledo oh | Registered: Jul 2006
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Luke87GT
Lay'n more stripes than Caltrans
Member # 21
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posted
Andrew, those Tig-beads are phenomenal!
Although most 8.8inch aftermarket diff covers place the bung at the bottom of the cover to avoid the need for a jacking plate. Interesting that they did not think of this with the 8" or 9"
In any case, great job! [ November 12, 2009, 05:45 PM: Message edited by: Luke87GT ]
-------------------- Stangless
Posts: 7802 | From: San Mateo | Registered: Jul 2000
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QuickSparks
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Member # 8826
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posted
Thanks Phil, Luke.
The construction of the 9 inch is completely different from that of the 8.8 inch. The 9 inch is made of formed sheet metal and the 8.8 is cast iron. If you placed a drain at the bottom of the back cover on the 9 inch, there would still be a 3/4" deep reservoir of oil below the level of the drain plug. I think that's why people put the drain directly on the bottom of the 9 inch rear.
Posts: 27 | From: Benicia | Registered: Dec 2008
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