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Author
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Topic: A/C in the vert FINALLY!!!!!!
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hidnn.o.s.
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Member # 1219
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posted
 
 
So many idiots say, "You have a convertable, why do you need A/C..........."
If these idiots had ever had a vert in the summer they'd understand whole heartedly....... Dropping the top in the heat, just makes hot air blow at you.............
Anyway, I popped a hose a couple years ago when swapping motors. Silverlx gave me a replacement a few months ago and today I finally got the system tested and converted to R134 at work. Blows so nice and cold now......
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R.I.P. Willie G. You are missed on this forum
Posts: 15950 | Registered: Apr 2002
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
nice, I need to do that to my vert. The a/c compressor doesn't kick on but there is pressure in the lines, I haven't spent any time looking at it though...
and I agree on the heat thing, the heat from the sun beats right through the top, there's no barrier like the roof of a hardtop to keep the heat out!
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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hidnn.o.s.
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Member # 1219
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posted
Test it first, may very well be the AC clutch. Toss a wire from the clutch straight to batter to see if clutch kicks in.
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R.I.P. Willie G. You are missed on this forum
Posts: 15950 | Registered: Apr 2002
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Wildfire532FB
CAFords OG
Member # 1482
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posted
AC work is a pain, especially since the stuff costs so damn much to get filled.
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68 Fastback
84 CJ7
94 HMMWV
95 GT
03 F350
17 Fusion Hybrid
Posts: 17578 | From: 530 | Registered: Jun 2002
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166 Merlo
FELONY
MOTORSPORTS
Member # 1549
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posted
If the compressor clutch doesn't kick on then it may just be low on charge, i.e you have a leak somewhere. the stock Ford o-rings typically only last 5-7 years, I'd look into replacing those with the newer RES style (green ones) compatible with both R12 and r134a and then having it leak tested. R12 and r134a don't mix and you can never releive the system completley of R12. if you're just planning on just adding R134a, the best thing to do for the long run would to replace everything. If you just refill with R134a it'll get you by but it won't last for the longest time. If you're looking for a permanent fix you should stick with R12 or buy all new shit. I just reinstalled the a/c in my Leen and I feel you with having the a/c working, especially in a lightweight hi-po car and the windows up in 90 degree weather. I Filled it up with R12 and on a hot day like today, man is that refreshing! if anyone needs this done I can do the whole process, leak check it and have it factory brand new - with R12 in the system. oh yea and R12 is colder than R134a ![[Razz]](tongue.gif)
fwiw R12 goes for $100 a pound and the ford system requires 2lbs and 2 oz. everywhere I went people were tellin me that I couldn't get R12 anymore, but i just told them Bin Laden hooked me up. ![[Whoo Whooooo!]](graemlins/woowoo.gif)
[ June 21, 2006, 03:43 AM: Message edited by: 166 Merlot ]
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'89 - Boss Coupe
'70 - Drop Cutthang
'68 - Cougnut
'87 - 0166, Its real
Posts: 3954 | From: Thebay | Registered: Jul 2002
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Five Decimal Zero
CAFords OG
Member # 1251
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 166 Merlot:
If the compressor clutch doesn't kick on then it may just be low on charge, i.e you have a leak somewhere. the stock Ford o-rings typically only last 5-7 years, I'd look into replacing those with the newer RES style (green ones) compatible with both R12 and r134a and then having it leak tested. R12 and r134a don't mix and you can never releive the system completley of R12. if you're just planning on just adding R134a, the best thing to do for the long run would to replace everything. If you just refill with R134a it'll get you by but it won't last for the longest time. If you're looking for a permanent fix you should stick with R12 or buy all new shit. I just reinstalled the a/c in my Leen and I feel you with having the a/c working, especially in a lightweight hi-po car and the windows up in 90 degree weather. I Filled it up with R12 and on a hot day like today, man is that refreshing! if anyone needs this done I can do the whole process, leak check it and have it factory brand new - with R12 in the system. oh yea and R12 is colder than R134a
fwiw R12 goes for $100 a pound and the ford system requires 2lbs and 2 oz. everywhere I went people were tellin me that I couldn't get R12 anymore, but i just told them Bin Laden hooked me up.
Please have Bin Laden hook me up too!
PM sent! ![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
Posts: 972 | From: San Jose, California | Registered: May 2002
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94gt
¯
Member # 3060
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by hidnn.o.s.:
Test it first, may very well be the AC clutch. Toss a wire from the clutch straight to batter to see if clutch kicks in.
Dont forget the pressure switch on the canister on the passenger side firewall. Mine was bad on my old 94.
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2020 Explorer ST
2011 Silver Raptor 'Screw
Posts: 5777 | From: Beavercreek, OH | Registered: Jul 2003
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BlackNGold
CaliforniaFords.com
Moderator
Member # 655
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by hidnn.o.s.:
So many idiots say, "You have a convertable, why do you need A/C..........."
If these idiots had ever had a vert in the summer they'd understand whole heartedly....... Dropping the top in the heat, just makes hot air blow at you.............
I wouldn't call those people idiots...I drove TRY2PAZ's S281 Saleen Speedstar to Roseville from Fremont on a hot ass summer day with the top down, yeah I may have used the A/C...And I can remember using the heater in WIK281 Vobra on a cold night too...But to bitch about the hot air in a convertable is like complaning of a harsh ride in a Ferrari, or tire noise from your 44" mud tires....
Just my .02....I hate hot weather, so I don't blame you wanting A/C, but it goes with the territory....
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-SLOWER TRAFFIC KEEP RIGHT-
Posts: 5132 | From: Bay Area, CA | Registered: Dec 2001
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hidnn.o.s.
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Member # 1219
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by BlackNGold:
quote:
Originally posted by hidnn.o.s.:
So many idiots say, "You have a convertable, why do you need A/C..........."
If these idiots had ever had a vert in the summer they'd understand whole heartedly....... Dropping the top in the heat, just makes hot air blow at you.............
I wouldn't call those people idiots...I drove TRY2PAZ's S281 Saleen Speedstar to Roseville from Fremont on a hot ass summer day with the top down, yeah I may have used the A/C...And I can remember using the heater in WIK281 Vobra on a cold night too...But to bitch about the hot air in a convertable is like complaning of a harsh ride in a Ferrari, or tire noise from your 44" mud tires....
Just my .02....I hate hot weather, so I don't blame you wanting A/C, but it goes with the territory....
Point was, people say you don't need A/C, just drop your top. THAT DOES NOT KEEP YOU COOL LIKE A/C DOES AT ALL ![[Roll Eyes]](rolleyes.gif)
[ June 21, 2006, 05:19 PM: Message edited by: hidnn.o.s. ]
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R.I.P. Willie G. You are missed on this forum
Posts: 15950 | Registered: Apr 2002
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CLEEN 50
CAFords OG
Member # 5867
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posted
how much was it to covert your a/c system? Is there any shop that recharges the old system or is the conversion a must?
Thanks ![[patriot]](graemlins/patriot.gif)
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91 GT
(cafords reg date: 6/02)
Posts: 2534 | From: Peninsula | Registered: Jul 2005
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Jdub07
( O Y O )
Member # 2728
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posted
Kind of off subject BUT, my AC is fully charged with the good old expensive shit. But it doesn't blow cold. If there isn't a leak in the system why wouldn't it blow cold? Also how much PSI should the system have in it when checking at the bike tire air lookin thingy.
Posts: 7282 | Registered: Apr 2003
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91 5.0 5speed
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Member # 1867
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Jdub07:
Kind of off subject BUT, my AC is fully charged with the good old expensive shit. But it doesn't blow cold. If there isn't a leak in the system why wouldn't it blow cold? Also how much PSI should the system have in it when checking at the bike tire air lookin thingy.
You might have a bad compressor
Posts: 1383 | From: Vallejo | Registered: Sep 2002
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92stangLX
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Member # 3252
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posted
Perfect timing
Posts: 5302 | From: San Francisco | Registered: Sep 2003
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Jdub07
( O Y O )
Member # 2728
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 91 5.0 5speed:
quote:
Originally posted by Jdub07:
Kind of off subject BUT, my AC is fully charged with the good old expensive shit. But it doesn't blow cold. If there isn't a leak in the system why wouldn't it blow cold? Also how much PSI should the system have in it when checking at the bike tire air lookin thingy.
You might have a bad compressor
How would I know? It does the normal clicking like it's working. Opening and closing is it? Fuck I don't know. I have a delete kit but can't bring myself to dump all the r12 refrigerant in there ![[Frown]](frown.gif)
Posts: 7282 | Registered: Apr 2003
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hidnn.o.s.
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Member # 1219
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posted
How do you know it does not have any leaks? When you say it does the normal clicking do you mean you can fire up the car, turn the AC nob on and the clutch on the AC compressor kicks on and off?
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R.I.P. Willie G. You are missed on this forum
Posts: 15950 | Registered: Apr 2002
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Jdub07
( O Y O )
Member # 2728
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by hidnn.o.s.:
How do you know it does not have any leaks? When you say it does the normal clicking do you mean you can fire up the car, turn the AC nob on and the clutch on the AC compressor kicks on and off?
Yes, fire up the car, turn the knob to AC and I can here the clutch kick on and off.
How do I know there are no leaks...good question. I guess I really don't. I'm making the assumption that I don't have leaks because there is a lot of pressure (bare with me) when pressing the bike tire like thing on it. Sorry if that just sounded dumb. Is there supposed to be a specific PSI or other way to check for leaks?
Posts: 7282 | Registered: Apr 2003
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94gt
¯
Member # 3060
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by hidnn.o.s.:
quote:
Originally posted by BlackNGold:
quote:
Originally posted by hidnn.o.s.:
So many idiots say, "You have a convertable, why do you need A/C..........."
If these idiots had ever had a vert in the summer they'd understand whole heartedly....... Dropping the top in the heat, just makes hot air blow at you.............
I wouldn't call those people idiots...I drove TRY2PAZ's S281 Saleen Speedstar to Roseville from Fremont on a hot ass summer day with the top down, yeah I may have used the A/C...And I can remember using the heater in WIK281 Vobra on a cold night too...But to bitch about the hot air in a convertable is like complaning of a harsh ride in a Ferrari, or tire noise from your 44" mud tires....
Just my .02....I hate hot weather, so I don't blame you wanting A/C, but it goes with the territory....
Point was, people say you don't need A/C, just drop your top. THAT DOES NOT KEEP YOU COOL LIKE A/C DOES AT ALL
very true... usually when I have the top down, I have the A/C on.
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2020 Explorer ST
2011 Silver Raptor 'Screw
Posts: 5777 | From: Beavercreek, OH | Registered: Jul 2003
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hidnn.o.s.
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Member # 1219
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posted
No, you don't sound dumb, or atleast I understand exactly what you're saying, lol.
I'll ask my tech here tomorrow what that means or what the possibilities are and get back to you.
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R.I.P. Willie G. You are missed on this forum
Posts: 15950 | Registered: Apr 2002
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Mr.Lucky
CAFords OG
Member # 1772
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 166 Merlot:
If the compressor clutch doesn't kick on then it may just be low on charge, i.e you have a leak somewhere. the stock Ford o-rings typically only last 5-7 years, I'd look into replacing those with the newer RES style (green ones) compatible with both R12 and r134a and then having it leak tested. R12 and r134a don't mix and you can never releive the system completley of R12. if you're just planning on just adding R134a, the best thing to do for the long run would to replace everything. If you just refill with R134a it'll get you by but it won't last for the longest time. If you're looking for a permanent fix you should stick with R12 or buy all new shit. I just reinstalled the a/c in my Leen and I feel you with having the a/c working, especially in a lightweight hi-po car and the windows up in 90 degree weather. I Filled it up with R12 and on a hot day like today, man is that refreshing! if anyone needs this done I can do the whole process, leak check it and have it factory brand new - with R12 in the system. oh yea and R12 is colder than R134a
fwiw R12 goes for $100 a pound and the ford system requires 2lbs and 2 oz. everywhere I went people were tellin me that I couldn't get R12 anymore, but i just told them Bin Laden hooked me up.
pm sent +1...
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95GT: Bolt ons.
Good sellers/buyers: Stangs R Us, 1SicGt, sn4bwc, racsirx, WickedStang, Autumnstang97, cali95gt
Posts: 4197 | From: Manteca | Registered: Sep 2002
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Jdub07
( O Y O )
Member # 2728
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by bottled02GT??:
quote:
Originally posted by 166 Merlot:
If the compressor clutch doesn't kick on then it may just be low on charge, i.e you have a leak somewhere. the stock Ford o-rings typically only last 5-7 years, I'd look into replacing those with the newer RES style (green ones) compatible with both R12 and r134a and then having it leak tested. R12 and r134a don't mix and you can never releive the system completley of R12. if you're just planning on just adding R134a, the best thing to do for the long run would to replace everything. If you just refill with R134a it'll get you by but it won't last for the longest time. If you're looking for a permanent fix you should stick with R12 or buy all new shit. I just reinstalled the a/c in my Leen and I feel you with having the a/c working, especially in a lightweight hi-po car and the windows up in 90 degree weather. I Filled it up with R12 and on a hot day like today, man is that refreshing! if anyone needs this done I can do the whole process, leak check it and have it factory brand new - with R12 in the system. oh yea and R12 is colder than R134a
fwiw R12 goes for $100 a pound and the ford system requires 2lbs and 2 oz. everywhere I went people were tellin me that I couldn't get R12 anymore, but i just told them Bin Laden hooked me up.
pm sent +1...
Awesome...good info I had no idea about. I must have a leak then. What a waist of R12. At least I didn't pay for it. My brother in law has some bottles of it left over from back in the day. He does heating and air conditoning for schools down south near thousand oaks. He filled it when i bought the car...then a year later it wasn't cold anymore but there is still lots of pressure in the system. Or at least I think it is a lot of pressure in the system. I've not hooked up any kind of pressure reader thing to know excactly.
Posts: 7282 | Registered: Apr 2003
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hidnn.o.s.
¯
Member # 1219
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posted
In my old Stang I just flushed the system, installed the 2 new R134 fittings and refilled it with R134. Lasted a few years and was still good when the car was sold. That's what I did this time as well and it's Aok. I've worked with a few AC techs over time and have all said this way can work just fine and have done it in their own vehicles. As techs in a shop, they suggest customer's replace the compressor/drier when converting, but in their own cars they've had good success with this. If something did go out, R134 costs next to nothing to refill if needed and is "maybe" 5 degrees warmer than R12 which you won't notice when you kick the AC on during a hot day.
IMO, don't pay the high price and high markup of R12.
I have R134 in my cars and it's great.
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R.I.P. Willie G. You are missed on this forum
Posts: 15950 | Registered: Apr 2002
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166 Merlo
FELONY
MOTORSPORTS
Member # 1549
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posted
there should be about 150psi on the discharge side. (left side that makes the u-turn)
I don't think a bike pressure gauge will go that high.
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'89 - Boss Coupe
'70 - Drop Cutthang
'68 - Cougnut
'87 - 0166, Its real
Posts: 3954 | From: Thebay | Registered: Jul 2002
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166 Merlo
FELONY
MOTORSPORTS
Member # 1549
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by hidnn.o.s.:
In my old Stang I just flushed the system, installed the 2 new R134 fittings and refilled it with R134. Lasted a few years and was still good when the car was sold. That's what I did this time as well and it's Aok. I've worked with a few AC techs over time and have all said this way can work just fine and have done it in their own vehicles. As techs in a shop, they suggest customer's replace the compressor/drier when converting, but in their own cars they've had good success with this. If something did go out, R134 costs next to nothing to refill if needed and is "maybe" 5 degrees warmer than R12 which you won't notice when you kick the AC on during a hot day.
IMO, don't pay the high price and high markup of R12.
I have R134 in my cars and it's great.
and remanufactures compressor with clutch with the upgraded seals and o-rings goes for $300
![[Eek!]](eek.gif)
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'89 - Boss Coupe
'70 - Drop Cutthang
'68 - Cougnut
'87 - 0166, Its real
Posts: 3954 | From: Thebay | Registered: Jul 2002
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hidnn.o.s.
¯
Member # 1219
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 166 Merlot:
and remanufactures compressor with clutch with the upgraded seals and o-rings goes for $300
Meaning ![[Confused]](confused.gif)
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R.I.P. Willie G. You are missed on this forum
Posts: 15950 | Registered: Apr 2002
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Wildfire532FB
CAFords OG
Member # 1482
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posted
Jeeps don't need A/C and if you use your A/C in your Jeep you're a panzy
[ June 22, 2006, 08:48 PM: Message edited by: Cobra5.0Jeep ]
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./_ _ _ ___ __\
(]]]_ _ o _ _[[[)
|\_o_ __ __o_/|
|__|..........|__|
68 Fastback
84 CJ7
94 HMMWV
95 GT
03 F350
17 Fusion Hybrid
Posts: 17578 | From: 530 | Registered: Jun 2002
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