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Author
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Topic: Re-installing AC system in my fox.
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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posted
 
 
So years ago, I thought it was a cool "mod" to take out a perfectly working AC system from my fox to go faster & because it was ugly. Well, when the car gets back on the road later this year, i want to re-install everything back in. I still have all the parts, but they have been sitting disconnected for 6-7 years. What do i need to do (besides re-install & recharge) to get this working again? New seals etc?
Thanks
[ 2015-06-03, 04:25 PM: Message edited by: *EPIK* ]
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
blast a/c system flush through all the lines and evaporator/condenser, replace the o-rings on each connection, I'm not sure if the fox has an orifice tube in the lines, if it does replace the tube, if it's part of the line replace that line...assemble it all, vacuum it down with a vacuum pump to ~30 inches and let it sit to make sure there's no leaks.
Replace the dryer bottle (bolts to the firewall, only bottle in the a/c system), vacuum it down to test for leaks again, find out how much oil the system needs to have added, then charge.
to "convert to r134a" is just getting new fittings from an auto parts store and calculating the amount to charge it with.
I'm actually converting my 89 GT over to R152a right now, same fittings are used as R134a but r152a is cheaper and pretty easy to find...it's what they use in the canned dust off spray for computer junk.
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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*EPIK*
¯
Member # 7481
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
blast a/c system flush through all the lines and evaporator/condenser, replace the o-rings on each connection, I'm not sure if the fox has an orifice tube in the lines, if it does replace the tube, if it's part of the line replace that line...assemble it all, vacuum it down with a vacuum pump to ~30 inches and let it sit to make sure there's no leaks.
Replace the dryer bottle (bolts to the firewall, only bottle in the a/c system), vacuum it down to test for leaks again, find out how much oil the system needs to have added, then charge.
to "convert to r134a" is just getting new fittings from an auto parts store and calculating the amount to charge it with.
I'm actually converting my 89 GT over to R152a right now, same fittings are used as R134a but r152a is cheaper and pretty easy to find...it's what they use in the canned dust off spray for computer junk.
Thanks man... Sounds good. Just curious, why does the dryer bottle need to be replaced though?
I'm assuming you are referring to this part correct?
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-19836C/86-93-Mustang-50L-Air-Conditioner-A-C-Accumulator
[ 2015-06-03, 05:54 PM: Message edited by: *EPIK* ]
--------------------
=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
| :
|
|
Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
|
posted
quote:
Originally posted by *EPIK*:
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
blast a/c system flush through all the lines and evaporator/condenser, replace the o-rings on each connection, I'm not sure if the fox has an orifice tube in the lines, if it does replace the tube, if it's part of the line replace that line...assemble it all, vacuum it down with a vacuum pump to ~30 inches and let it sit to make sure there's no leaks.
Replace the dryer bottle (bolts to the firewall, only bottle in the a/c system), vacuum it down to test for leaks again, find out how much oil the system needs to have added, then charge.
to "convert to r134a" is just getting new fittings from an auto parts store and calculating the amount to charge it with.
I'm actually converting my 89 GT over to R152a right now, same fittings are used as R134a but r152a is cheaper and pretty easy to find...it's what they use in the canned dust off spray for computer junk.
Thanks man... Sounds good. Just curious, why does the dryer bottle need to be replaced though?
I'm assuming you are referring to this part correct?
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-19836C/86-93-Mustang-50L-Air-Conditioner-A-C-Accumulator
yep.
It absorbs moisture in the a/c system, with yours being out and off the car exposed to regular air the moisture absorbing bag inside the bottle is done.
You should use the old one to pressure test the system under vacuum before swapping in the new one, as when you pop the seals on the new one it starts sucking moisture out of the air right away.
--------------------
89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
| :
|
|
*EPIK*
¯
Member # 7481
|
posted
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
quote:
Originally posted by *EPIK*:
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
blast a/c system flush through all the lines and evaporator/condenser, replace the o-rings on each connection, I'm not sure if the fox has an orifice tube in the lines, if it does replace the tube, if it's part of the line replace that line...assemble it all, vacuum it down with a vacuum pump to ~30 inches and let it sit to make sure there's no leaks.
Replace the dryer bottle (bolts to the firewall, only bottle in the a/c system), vacuum it down to test for leaks again, find out how much oil the system needs to have added, then charge.
to "convert to r134a" is just getting new fittings from an auto parts store and calculating the amount to charge it with.
I'm actually converting my 89 GT over to R152a right now, same fittings are used as R134a but r152a is cheaper and pretty easy to find...it's what they use in the canned dust off spray for computer junk.
Thanks man... Sounds good. Just curious, why does the dryer bottle need to be replaced though?
I'm assuming you are referring to this part correct?
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-19836C/86-93-Mustang-50L-Air-Conditioner-A-C-Accumulator
yep.
It absorbs moisture in the a/c system, with yours being out and off the car exposed to regular air the moisture absorbing bag inside the bottle is done.
You should use the old one to pressure test the system under vacuum before swapping in the new one, as when you pop the seals on the new one it starts sucking moisture out of the air right away.
Oh ok, that makes sense. Thanks for the info and help man! How do the older systems do with the R134, I've heard they don't do too well? I see retrofit systems with newer style compressors etc, are those necessary?
--------------------
=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
| :
|
|
Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
|
posted
quote:
Originally posted by *EPIK*:
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
quote:
Originally posted by *EPIK*:
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
blast a/c system flush through all the lines and evaporator/condenser, replace the o-rings on each connection, I'm not sure if the fox has an orifice tube in the lines, if it does replace the tube, if it's part of the line replace that line...assemble it all, vacuum it down with a vacuum pump to ~30 inches and let it sit to make sure there's no leaks.
Replace the dryer bottle (bolts to the firewall, only bottle in the a/c system), vacuum it down to test for leaks again, find out how much oil the system needs to have added, then charge.
to "convert to r134a" is just getting new fittings from an auto parts store and calculating the amount to charge it with.
I'm actually converting my 89 GT over to R152a right now, same fittings are used as R134a but r152a is cheaper and pretty easy to find...it's what they use in the canned dust off spray for computer junk.
Thanks man... Sounds good. Just curious, why does the dryer bottle need to be replaced though?
I'm assuming you are referring to this part correct?
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-19836C/86-93-Mustang-50L-Air-Conditioner-A-C-Accumulator
yep.
It absorbs moisture in the a/c system, with yours being out and off the car exposed to regular air the moisture absorbing bag inside the bottle is done.
You should use the old one to pressure test the system under vacuum before swapping in the new one, as when you pop the seals on the new one it starts sucking moisture out of the air right away.
Oh ok, that makes sense. Thanks for the info and help man! How do the older systems do with the R134, I've heard they don't do too well? I see retrofit systems with newer style compressors etc, are those necessary?
The only retrofit needed is the different fittings to fill.
personally, I'm going to be trying r152a this weekend on my 89 GT.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/ot-air-conditioner-alternative-refrigerant-hfc152a.395496/
cheaper ($10 for 40oz, most cars need ~25oz tops)
safer (CA allows the cans for sale to be sprayed out in the air freely...)
Based on several threads like that for all different kinds of older r12 cars, the r152a looks to cool -almost- as well as R12.
http://www.autoacsystems.com/fasttrack/r152tests_charts.html
http://www.sae.org/events/aars/presentations/2008/manhoekim.pdf
"Conclusion
At the same compressor speed, R152a system with readjustment of an expansion valve
showed better performance compared to R134a system
- 20 ~ 41% higher cooling capacity
- 27 ~ 42% higher COP
- 33 ~ 48% lower evaporator pressure drop
- 6.4 ~ 10.8oC higher discharge temperature"
[ 2015-06-04, 03:53 PM: Message edited by: Blind ]
--------------------
89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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