This is topic Wierd clutch in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by Marks93 (Member # 11130) on :
 
I've been having a clutch issue, probably a cable issue. '93 5.0, T5. When I first start the car in the morning, shifting gears is really smooth. After driving it for about 15 minutes or so, it starts to get harder to get into gear. The clutch engage point is not very far from the floor. I had the cable replaced by Advanced Auto about 3-4 months ago and they installed an aluminum quadrant and firewall adjuster. The firewall adjuster is almost all the way out (toward the front). Dan had adjusted the clutch to engage about 2" off the floor. It was never like that before but I liked it like that. In the past, it's always engaged close to the floor. It's back like that again. Should I adjust the cable at the clutch fork? It doesn't seem too loose at the fork. There's not much adjustment left on the firewall adjuster. I've never used the firewall adjuster before but have only read about using it.

I assume the cable needs to be replaced or stretches when it gets hot?? I don't know. I have a brand new cable ready to go.

The funny thing is, after not driving the car for a long period, then starting it back up, the clutch shifts like butter again, until after about 15 minutes of so. Weird.....

Thoughts?
 

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Posted by Martinna (Member # 12493) on :
 
What clutch cable and headers do you have? Does your cable have threads on the end to adjust its length? A cable that got a little melted from being too close to headers can give the problem you're talking about. Maximum Motorsports sells the best clutch cables.

[ 2018-11-07, 03:34 AM: Message edited by: Martinna ]
 

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Posted by Marks93 (Member # 11130) on :
 
Thanks Martinna, I assume stock cable. Looks like one. It was put on by that shop. I didn't check to see how close it was to the MAC shorties. I'll check it out.

I did adjust the bolts on the clutch fork side about 2 weeks ago, just made sure the cable was tight, but not too tight! It's not chirping at all so the throwout bearing is ok.
 

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Posted by SLOWSN95 (Member # 8269) on :
 
I would screw in the firewall adjuster, tighten up the cable at the fork a bit and readjust at the firewall adjuster after. After the cable at the fork is tightened a bit, pull the cable at the firewall and screw out the firewall adjuster to the point where you can fit a quarter in between the adjuster and cable. See how it feels. You should have 1-2" of pedal slack. If you dont, turn in the firewall adjust a little bit
 

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Posted by Marks93 (Member # 11130) on :
 
Thanks SlowSN! I'll give that a try.

When screwing in the firewall adjuster, I want to make sure the cable has no slack at the fork end and adjust that bolt right? If that's the case, I wonder why the guys at Advanced didn't adjust it that way. They're usually pretty good with this stuff.
 

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Posted by SLOWSN95 (Member # 8269) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by Marks93:
Thanks SlowSN! I'll give that a try.

When screwing in the firewall adjuster, I want to make sure the cable has no slack at the fork end and adjust that bolt right? If that's the case, I wonder why the guys at Advanced didn't adjust it that way. They're usually pretty good with this stuff.

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Both Dans at AAE are very knowledgeable and are a couple of the only people I'd let touch my personal cars. I'm sure they did the job correctly.

As for the adjustment..
-Screw wall adjuster IN all of the way.
-Go to the fork and TIGHTEN the cable at the fork adjuster by roughly a 1/2" and make sure lock nuts are tight up against each other when done.
-Screw wall adjuster OUT while pulling the cable away from the wall until you have a gap that a quarter can fit in.

Make sure you have around 1" of clutch pedal slop so that your throwout bearing isn't constantly riding up against the pressure plate.

See how it feels and report back
 

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Posted by Martinna (Member # 12493) on :
 
I think these modern throw out bearings are suppose to constantly lightly ride the pressure plate. The clutch won't fully disengage and cause notchy shifts if there is too much cable slop. Marks93's cable probably stretched a little as it settled in. Having to readjust a new cable is normal until it settles in.
 

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Posted by SLOWSN95 (Member # 8269) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by Martinna:
I think these modern throw out bearings are suppose to constantly lightly ride the pressure plate. The clutch won't fully disengage and cause notchy shifts if there is too much cable slop. Marks93's cable probably stretched a little as it settled in. Having to readjust a new cable is normal until it settles in.

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quote:

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Originally posted by Marks93:
I finally got to this cable. I disconnect it from the clutch fork, screwed in the firewall adjuster all the way (and did notice how much looser the cable got). I went under and tightened the fork nut probably a good 2 inches or more, then backed off the adjuster a little bit. The cluch seemed pretty good at that point. BUT.... (there's always one of those eh??), when I went to put the fork cover back on, the end of the clutch cable was too long to fit all the way under the fork cover. That was because of loosening it up all the way with the adjuster and tightening the fork bolt 2" or more. I had to loosen (back off) the cable nut to the fork until the cover was able to fit again!! Then I had to unscrew the adjuster to about middle to tightening the cable up. Did some fine tuning with the adjuster and it works just fine now. Drove it for about an hour and the clutch was just fine and consistent. The engagement point is still a bit low (just off the floor), but it's always been like that so I'll live with it. Once I started playing with the adjuster, I see how well it works. Little tweaks here and there to get it where you want.

I do have about 1" of play (if that) at the beginning of pushing the clutch and the clutch cable is still fairly tight. Shifts into gear rather easily.

Thanks for your help! It really did help.

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Glad you got it figured out. The fork cover not fitting is one of the reasons why I said to tighten the end of the cable by 1/2" (half) and not 2 full inches lol. As long as the clutch grabs at least 1-2" off the floor, you're good to go. If it's literally right off the floor, you can experiment with the firewall adjuster, pull the cable away from the wall and bottom the cable out on the adjuster and see how that feels. Glad I was able to help.

[ 2018-11-13, 09:01 PM: Message edited by: SLOWSN95 ]
 

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Posted by Marks93 (Member # 11130) on :
 


I'm not sure what you mean by bottom the cable out on the adjuster.
..and yeah, it engages about an inch or so off the floor.

How long have you had the 347 in the '94? Sounds like a fun upgrade!

[ 2018-11-15, 10:27 AM: Message edited by: Marks93 ]
 

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Posted by SLOWSN95 (Member # 8269) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by Marks93:


I'm not sure what you mean by bottom the cable out on the adjuster.
..and yeah, it engages about an inch or so off the floor.

How long have you had the 347 in the '94? Sounds like a fun upgrade!

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Where the cable rests on the firewall adjuster. Try pulling the cable away from the adjuster and while unscrewing the adjuster, screw it out until you touch the cable, as opposed to sticking the quarter in between.

I've had this one going for almost a year.. I broke 2 pistons on my first 347 which only lasted about 5 months.. gotta hate crappy parts lol. But yea, it is a very fun upgrade!
 

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