This is topic [SOLVED] F-150 Check Engine Light and Power Loss in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by schordas (Member # 14196) on :
 
I have a 1995 F-150 XLT with the 5.0 L 302. I recently pulled my throttle body off to clean it (it was filthy). Anyhow, cleaned it, put it back on without a hitch. I took care not to push open the valves, I hear that can throw off the calibration (not sure that's the correct term, I'm no expert). I drove it for 100 miles or so with no problem and then the check engine light went on and my acceleration rate dropped off substantially. It continued to flicker on and off for a while. Sometimes I would get my power back when it was on but it would then immediately turn off. When the light is off the truck runs normally. Otherwise anytime it is on I can't accelerate well at high speed. Can't seem to get it up into the high RPMs, I wouldn't say it's bogging down, just not peppy. When I turn the truck off and back on the light goes off and usually stays off until I get onto the freeway, then it goes back to being on steady or going on and off. I checked all the hoses and electronics going to the throttle body, everything seems right although I haven't taken the throttle body back off just yet, that's my next step.

I'm not even sure if the throttle body is the issue, I just figured that maybe I kicked up some gunk and it's clogging something up. If anyone could shed some light on this I would be grateful. I'm inclined to fix it myself so feel free to be technical in your response.

[ 2016-07-08, 11:30 AM: Message edited by: schordas ]
 
Posted by Fostang (Member # 3752) on :
 
Sounds like a miss

Why don't you pull codes and go from there.
 
Posted by wilit (Member # 3367) on :
 
Yep, pull the codes.

Either buy a code scanner like this:
https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-Ford-Digital-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW

Or make up a jumper wire and pull the codes like this:
http://www.f150forum.com/f10/how-retrieve-trouble-codes-obdi-10907/

That's the only real way to narrow down what's going on.
 
Posted by schordas (Member # 14196) on :
 
Thanks for the advice! I picked up that code reader. Just pulled the codes.

Got the following:

122 (O and C): Throttle position sensor below minimum voltage.

334 (C): EGR closed valve voltage high.

536 (C): Brake On/Off (BOO) circuit not activated during KOER

565 (O): Canister purge solenoid circuit fault.

I did some research and I suspect it has to do with the Throttle Position Sensor. I'm going to pull the Throttle Body back off and investigate that.

[ 2016-07-07, 08:57 AM: Message edited by: schordas ]
 
Posted by wilit (Member # 3367) on :
 
I would check the TPS voltage to make sure it works and is within spec.

[ 2016-07-07, 08:09 PM: Message edited by: wilit ]
 
Posted by schordas (Member # 14196) on :
 
I think I solved it. It appears that someone who had the truck before me stripped two of the three wires on the TPS. I'm assuming in order to test it. Anyhow, when I took the throttle body off to clean it I put the TPS back in such away that these exposed wires were touching each other (clearly was not thinking) and I guess it was shorting out. Truthfully I don't know much about electrical so maybe it was something else. I tried to get a new TPS for the hell of it, of course O'Reily, despite saying they had one in stock, did not have one. Nor did anyone else nearby. So I just grabbed some electrical tape and taped up the exposed wires. I don't like the fix but it gets me back on the road until I can get a new TPS. Anyhow, that seems to have done the trick. I really appreciate everyones' advice!
 




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