This is topic oil concern in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by KARATExxCHUCK (Member # 12851) on :
 
I have a 92 mustang foxbody. My car calls for 5w30, but I have always ran 10w40. I wanted to run 10w40 full synthetic, but I could not decide on a brand because all I could find was 10w30 (not important). I picked up 3 gallons of 15w40 of chevron delo 400 oil, but I am beginning to have second thoughts. Is this oil for diesels? And can I run this in my car?

Charles [patriot]
 
Posted by NK2186 (Member # 12319) on :
 
15 40 is thick oil for diesel or high mileage engines. We steady run 15-40 in the e350 vans that come through my shop with 200 - 400k miles.

just use 10-30 or 5-30 conventional or synth dont matter. just keep it clean !

[ 2016-06-03, 06:50 PM: Message edited by: NK2186 ]
 
Posted by 90GT510 (Member # 9199) on :
 
Castrol gtx ftmfw

5-30/10-30 motorcraft filter.
 
Posted by PonyBoy415 (Member # 13662) on :
 
Mobil One Full Synthetic in my Focus all day everyday !!
 
Posted by LXjames (Member # 10791) on :
 
Delo supposedly has a lot of zinc and the thick oil is a good cushion for our higher mileage and abused 5.0 motors. You'll see good pressure but it is a little thick.
 
Posted by Fostang (Member # 3752) on :
 
Worst that can happen is a spun rod. I've ran that diesel oil on older motors (flat tappet) without a hitch of problem.
 
Posted by kuku93 (Member # 14014) on :
 
ive used mobile one full synthetic 10w-30 on my 87 for 3 years and still going to use it for my 347 stroker after its done. Best brand out there
 
Posted by NEIGHT (Member # 8741) on :
 
I've always used 10w30 on my foxes.
 
Posted by SIC9250 (Member # 8216) on :
 
15/40w is just fine enjoy the quite valvetrain 👍🏻
 
Posted by Blind (Member # 3052) on :
 
I ran castrol 20w50 convential in my wife's old `91 5.0 with a lot of miles, only stuff that would quiet the lifters lol
 
Posted by lubedealer (Member # 13499) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by KARATExxCHUCK:
I have a 92 mustang foxbody. My car calls for 5w30, but I have always ran 10w40. I wanted to run 10w40 full synthetic, but I could not decide on a brand because all I could find was 10w30 (not important). I picked up 3 gallons of 15w40 of chevron delo 400 oil, but I am beginning to have second thoughts. Is this oil for diesels? And can I run this in my car?

Charles [patriot]


 
Posted by lubedealer (Member # 13499) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by KARATExxCHUCK:
I have a 92 mustang foxbody. My car calls for 5w30, but I have always ran 10w40. I wanted to run 10w40 full synthetic, but I could not decide on a brand because all I could find was 10w30 (not important). I picked up 3 gallons of 15w40 of chevron delo 400 oil, but I am beginning to have second thoughts. Is this oil for diesels? And can I run this in my car?

Charles [patriot]

quote:

amsoil makes a 10w 40 full synthetic oil and it is a high zinc oil. you dont say much about your engine. 10w 30 would be my choice if car is not one that needs high zinc. been using amsoil for over 35 years and it has the market covered. we even have the new 5w 50 for the super ford power houses.
 
Posted by 93mustang50 (Member # 6642) on :
 
Rotella 15-40 for the win! I run it in everything I have. My dirt bikes, yamaha rhino, cummins truck, and my dd HCI fox....for years

[ 2016-07-08, 01:08 AM: Message edited by: 93mustang50 ]
 
Posted by warhorse58gt (Member # 7702) on :
 
I run 15-40 full synthetic. Never had a issue. 8-9 years of 250+ passes a year. Still solid as day 1. [patriot]
 
Posted by Martinna (Member # 12493) on :
 
Switching to full synthetic on old gaskets is known to cause leaks. Use conventional oil.
 
Posted by hurting your feelings (Member # 13641) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Martinna:
Switching to full synthetic on old gaskets is known to cause leaks. Use conventional oil.

Talking out your ass again I see.
 
Posted by lubedealer (Member # 13499) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Martinna:
Switching to full synthetic on old gaskets is known to cause leaks. Use conventional oil.

this is not true pertaning to gasket leaks. there was a problem attributed to seal leaking on either front crank or rear main seals. the problem actually was that build up of varnish or sludge was what was preventing an oil leak so when synthetic was used it removed the false seal you sometimes developed a leak. if vehicle has been properly serviced going to synthetic wont leak.
 
Posted by Martinna (Member # 12493) on :
 
lubedealer ----- but what 92 Mustang doesn't have a real main seal leak? It is a flawed design that always leaks. Synthetics only make a bad problem worse. Taxis, postal trucks and police cruisers always use conventional oil and run up over 300,000 miles regularly. The money spent pouring synthetic into your crank case should be spent pouring gasoline into your gas tank instead.
 
Posted by fredfifty (Member # 10320) on :
 
searched and wondering why a rear main repair sleeve is not mentioned and used? shit, i just found out about using them smh...

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-6701RK/Redi-Sleeve-Rear-Main-Seal-Repair-Sleeve-Mustang-79-04
 
Posted by SLOWSN95 (Member # 8269) on :
 
Run some 15w-40 shell rotella. Cheap and has a higher zinc content. It’s technically a “heavy duty” oil as opposed to a diesel oil. I’ve run it in a few cars as well as my jet ski since I run it at 7-8k rpms for minutes at a time. Hasn’t given me a lick of trouble.
 
Posted by Martinna (Member # 12493) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by fredfifty:
searched and wondering why a rear main repair sleeve is not mentioned and used? shit, i just found out about using them smh...

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-6701RK/Redi-Sleeve-Rear-Main-Seal-Repair-Sleeve-Mustang-79-04

You need to buy the special tool to install a sleeve. You can sleeve a crank and run a factory style seal on 2004 and older V8s or use a Teflon seal with no sleeve. If you have a groove cut into your crank from a bad seal, you'll need a repair sleeve not to have leaks.
 
Posted by fredfifty (Member # 10320) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Martinna:
quote:
Originally posted by fredfifty:
searched and wondering why a rear main repair sleeve is not mentioned and used? shit, i just found out about using them smh...

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-6701RK/Redi-Sleeve-Rear-Main-Seal-Repair-Sleeve-Mustang-79-04

You need to buy the special tool to install a sleeve. You can sleeve a crank and run a factory style seal on 2004 and older V8s or use a Teflon seal with no sleeve. If you have a groove cut into your crank from a bad seal, you'll need a repair sleeve not to have leaks.
that was my mistake, i did not use the teflon seal...i used the ford brand seal thinking it was better. damn.
 
Posted by Martinna (Member # 12493) on :
 
On 1979 to 2004 Mustangs the crank needs to be cleaned of the old seal that has melted onto it. You need to scrape it off with brake cleaner and your finger nail or a plastic scraper. Don't use metal. Use a mirror and a flashlight to see if you've removed all of the old melted seal. Remains of the old seal left behind will cause a new seal to soon leak.
 




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