This is topic how many miles does it take to break in a cam in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by 79 cobra (Member # 10137) on :
 
just got my f-303 cam how many miles do i gota baby it intill its brokin in dont wanna flat spot the cam some some say 100 miles and my other friend said 500-1000 miles


thanks,
brett

[ February 26, 2012, 08:00 PM: Message edited by: 79 cobra ]
 
Posted by triple b (Member # 8763) on :
 
its a roller wont flat spot
 
Posted by 79 cobra (Member # 10137) on :
 
yeah f-303 hydralic roller
 
Posted by 1ST0KGT (Member # 10606) on :
 
Ill give it a good 500 to be safe
 
Posted by 79 cobra (Member # 10137) on :
 
aite guess i gotta go on some long cruises then
 
Posted by SS396 chevelle aka fasthatch (Member # 7277) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by triple b:
its a roller wont flat spot
bullshit roller cam can get flats spots too
 
Posted by 79 cobra (Member # 10137) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by SS396 chevelle aka fasthatch:
quote:
Originally posted by triple b:
its a roller wont flat spot
bullshit roller cam can get flats spots too
yeah thats what i thought
 
Posted by triple b (Member # 8763) on :
 
never seen or heard of it maybe if you running extremly high spring pressures or low idle speed where the oil pump doesn't lube the roller bearings in the lifters and they fail to "roll" lol

[ February 26, 2012, 09:51 PM: Message edited by: triple b ]
 
Posted by 84SVOrick (Member # 9039) on :
 
I was taught that the roller cams dont wear or get hot spots, they were the upgrades too flat tappets flaws
 
Posted by ItzStock (Member # 9665) on :
 
I don't think you have to break in roller cams.
 
Posted by blueoval55 (Member # 9787) on :
 
i always tell people to do the 20 minutes at 2,000 rpm just like you would a flat tappet cam. gets everything lubed when first fired. after that, go beat on it! but really no break in is necessary, but it cant hurt.
roller lifters only oil the needle bearings in the roller end through splash & windage, unless you get solid rollers with pressure feed. never seen a hydraulic cam wear or "flat spot" unless the lifter fails. solid rollers with alot of spring pressure do wear, but not flat spot, they get what is called "tracking" where there is a small amount of wear evenly on the nose of the lobe.
 
Posted by outlawdragger (Member # 10590) on :
 
not true.hydro cams can go flat without the lifter being bad.usualy near the rear
 
Posted by 84SVOrick (Member # 9039) on :
 
Ive never heard of a roller cam go bad either
 
Posted by ItzStock (Member # 9665) on :
 
General roller cam notes:

- A roller cam needs no break in procedure

Half way down the page
http://www.thirdgen.org/sbc-camshafts-primer
 
Posted by [SHO]TIME (Member # 8962) on :
 
Okay I realize that no one here is a machinist as for roller cam intalls there is no specific break in procedures.if your installing new lifters with the cam i would definately presoak them in oil for a good day and then install them sure on initial fire up i wouldnt just start revin that bitch through the roof. just keep steady 1500 to 2000 just to get all the lifters fully pumped with oil.if your just sticking a high lift cam in a 302 without having any machining done in the heads as far as springs you can bet that your going to risk bottoming out your springs. if this happens you've got problems! I've seen this happen plenty of times and it usually results in a broken lifter and ruined cam ouch! so just measure the clearence between your spring coils at full valve open position

[ February 27, 2012, 12:06 AM: Message edited by: [SHO]TIME ]
 
Posted by svfreerider87 (Member # 5748) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by [SHO]TIME:
Okay I realize that no one here is a machinist as for roller cam intalls there is no specific break in procedures.if your installing new lifters with the cam i would definately presoak them in oil for a good day and then install them sure on initial fire up i wouldnt just start revin that bitch through the roof. just keep steady 1500 to 2000 just to get all the lifters fully pumped with oil.if your just sticking a high lift cam in a 302 without having any machining done in the heads as far as springs you can bet that your going to risk bottoming out your springs. if this happens you've got problems! I've seen this happen plenty of times and it usually results in a broken lifter and ruined cam ouch! so just measure the clearence between your spring coils at full valve open position

<small>[ February 27, 2012, 12:06 AM: Message edited by: [SHO]TIME ]</small>
it's to my understanding that if you pre soak the lifters they bind up, kind of like a hydrolock? correct me if i'm wrong, my machinist said if anything is going to go wrong on a fresh cam swap/engine build it's going to happen in the first 50 miles, I did what he said and drove it easy for 300 miles, with two oil changes, one at 150 miles and the final one at 300.
 
Posted by JZTRK (Member # 7641) on :
 
roller cams do not need to be broke in romp on that shit and dont sweat it
 
Posted by 79 cobra (Member # 10137) on :
 
yeah its goin on my 306 with afr heads with upgraded valve springs part number AFR#8000 it says its good up to .710" lift so i should be good and for lifters i got aftermarket gatorback link roller lifters with cromoly pushrods and 1.72 roller rockers
 
Posted by triple b (Member # 8763) on :
 
lol presoak them i dont know about a day but i would do a dip atleast and for sure prime the engine before i started i warm my engine before i drive everyday at idle for a few minutes after not driving for 8 hrs
 
Posted by 79 cobra (Member # 10137) on :
 
yeah i was planin on pre lubeing the engine before i fired her upp and gona let it sit at 2500 rpm for about 25-45 mins before i even drive it then go to my boys house in tracy babying it the whole way but soon has im out there time to pick on some evo's and couple vettes
 
Posted by JZTRK (Member # 7641) on :
 
what kind of heads?
 
Posted by 79 cobra (Member # 10137) on :
 
Afr 185 part # 1428
 
Posted by 4IDFOX (Member # 9921) on :
 
You will need to check pushrod length. Sounds to me like it could end up being different than stock with those lifters and if the block or heads have been milled.
 
Posted by 79 cobra (Member # 10137) on :
 
yeah already checked with the adjustable push rod tool and it uses 6.700 length
 
Posted by 79 cobra (Member # 10137) on :
 
engine is all put togather goin fishin today and tomarrow time to mess around with it
 
Posted by Secnd2nun64 (Member # 1431) on :
 
After you warm the engine up, turn it off and readjust your valves. I had soaked my rollers for two days and there was still air in them.
 
Posted by Duncan Motors (Member # 7045) on :
 
pre roller as in non roller cams needed to be broke in, roller cams do not. but the rings still do. u still have to set your rings in the beginning break in period. i like my motors to have around at least 500 miles on them before there romped on.if the rings arent set, they can move or twist position from where there ori set. there is a reason u set the rings in order before u put them in.
 
Posted by Camara90 (Member # 134) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Duncan Motors:
pre roller as in non roller cams needed to be broke in, roller cams do not. but the rings still do. u still have to set your rings in the beginning break in period. i like my motors to have around at least 500 miles on them before there romped on.if the rings arent set, they can move or twist position from where there ori set. there is a reason u set the rings in order before u put them in.
Soft break in is old school bro, these are not flat tappet cams and it is not necessary. Run the new motor through a good heat cycle when first started. If the car is tuned well enough to drive go out an put a load on it and let it cool down. The rings are set in minutes, dont believe me? Put a few heat cycle on the motor and then do a leak down test. After the first few heat cycles with a load on it(heat cycle- put it in 3rd or 4th with some low rpms and hit it, get up in the rpm band but not to redline a few times, let it engine cool down. Do this a few times) Go out and beat the piss out of it next time!!! I always change the oil within a 100 miles and will cut open my filter to inspect.

Amsoil designs a product that does not have to meet the new standards that are low in zinc to help lengthen the life of cats. Here is a good read on it.

http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbulletin/motoroil/tsb%20mo-2007-08-08%20flat%20tappet.pdf

Here is a Great oil to run after break in. Usually 1000 miles before synthetic.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/zrt.aspx

[ February 29, 2012, 12:55 AM: Message edited by: Camara90 ]
 
Posted by 4IDFOX (Member # 9921) on :
 
Read all of this. It is by a motorcycle guy but is accepted as gospel by many engine builders.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
 
Posted by 79 cobra (Member # 10137) on :
 
engine was already brokin in
 




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