This is topic Engine Temp Problem? in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by 90FoX (Member # 1974) on :
 
I have a 1990 5.0, with a completely stock cooling system. In warmer weather I noticed that my temp gauge is reading pretty high. I've been told that the stock gauge is actually quite inaccurate, and that the stock cooling system for 5.0's sucks in warm weather. So I was just wondering if you guys could give me more info on what could possibly be going on here...is it true stock gauges can be very inaccurate? Stock cooling system needs to be upgraded?
Also I had to by pass my heater core because it would always fog up my windshield and it would leak coolant, if you look at the picture does the tube looked pinched? Maybe the coolants flow has been slowed from this point and this is causing the over heating? I lifted my hood and the motor wasn't much hotter than it normally is, for example I touched my upper intake and I highly doubt it was over 250 degrees, but then again I can be wrong.

Thanks.

Sorry about the crap pictures, the only digital camera I have is my picture phone..








[ June 23, 2005, 12:44 PM: Message edited by: 90FoX ]
 

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Posted by 88gt (Member # 579) on :
 
I doubt that tube is causing your problems.

What does the rest of your cooling system consist of? Stock radiator and thermostat?
 

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Posted by 1CLeeN5.0 (Member # 2124) on :
 
if your stock radiator is still looking okay and doesn't have a lot of build up on the outer fins most of the time it's air pockets in the cooling system. there a couple of ways to burp your cooling system just go to your parts store and buy the coolant bucket and fill your cooling system till there is coolant in the bucket and your radiator is full and then start the car and put the heater on hi and when the heat is good turn off the car and your done. try checking your thermostat and you fan clutch sometimes they leak
 

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Posted by 1CLeeN5.0 (Member # 2124) on :
 
if you bypassed the heater core, check your fan clutch, thermo, and fan for cracks and if all good just swap the coolant.
 

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Posted by 90FoX (Member # 1974) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by 88gt:
I doubt that tube is causing your problems.

What does the rest of your cooling system consist of? Stock radiator and thermostat?

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yea its all stock. And the 3rd picture is of my coolant overflow tank topped off because the system is over heating, nasty brown color isn't it?

[ June 23, 2005, 05:35 PM: Message edited by: 90FoX ]
 

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Posted by 90FoX (Member # 1974) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by 1CLeeN5.0:
if you bypassed the heater core, check your fan clutch, thermo, and fan for cracks and if all good just swap the coolant.

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Most of my coolant leaked out from the heater core and I replaced it with water. Do you think if i flush the system and put real coolant in, it will help keep the motor much cooler?

How should i check my fan clutch?
The fan is spinning fine, does that indicate the fan clutch is fine?

With my thermostat will I have to pull it out to testit?

[ June 23, 2005, 08:20 PM: Message edited by: 90FoX ]
 

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Posted by 90FoX (Member # 1974) on :
 
....anyone?
 

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Posted by asskickn88 (Member # 4957) on :
 
Try changing the thermostat to a 185 and new coolant. The fan shouldnt just spin free, it should have a little bit of drag. Depending on milage you could have a bad radiator.
 

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Posted by sic5pointSLOW (Member # 4347) on :
 
keep the thermostat stock temp range!!! if u are going to change to a 185 the car will never run in a closed loop. it will always think that it is "warming up" check the thermostat and see if its working and opens all the way.check your cap. maybe it leaks pressure a lil. i had the same prob and changed to a 3 core, now i never go over 200F even with a/c on. besides all that maybe u have air pockets in your system.
 

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Posted by sic5pointSLOW (Member # 4347) on :
 
radiator maybe bad after all like asskickin88 said, i know that was the problem with mine. the temp on the coolant leaving the radiator should be at least 100F cooler then what is entering.
 

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Posted by 90FoX (Member # 1974) on :
 
Thanks everyone. Ill flush the water and put coolant in and probably buy a new cap, because i noticed when it was "overheating" that steam was leaking through the cap so i think it maybe bad. also ill just pull out the thermo to make sure its okay.
 

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Posted by Sean90GT (Member # 33) on :
 
Get a baking thermometer from the grocery store. Dip it in the radiator when it's hot (BE CAREFUL TO NOT GET BURNED OPENING THE CAP). This will be more accurate and tell you what the actual heat of the water is. That should tell you if the gauge is working or not.

Also, feel the top radiator hose coming out of the thermostat housing when hot (wear a glove or something). Can you collapse the hose or is it firm (full of water)? If you can compress or collapse the hose then your thermostat is probably stuck shut. You could also pull the thermostat and drop it in boiling water. It should snap open.

Finally you should be running a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and distilled water, not tap water. Cooling systems fail because people put tap water in and the minerals and metals in the water cause the corrosion and rust. Distilled water is available cheap enough from the grocery store by the gallon.
 

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Posted by 89lx (Member # 1703) on :
 
To add to what has been said, check all of that. I second keeping the thermostat no lower than 190 to keep the computer in closed loop. If it is still running high and the car has A/C, check to see if you're getting any flow through the "A/C radiator" (evaporator?). Mine was plugged from all the road grime and bugs. Temp would creep on the highway, but be fine around town. Replaced the radiator with a 4 row, thermostat, cap, changed fan to electric. No luck. Changed the radiator. No more problems. Car never approaches half way.

I also had a old Olds which had pin holes in the rad. Never lost a noticable amount of water and there was no steam, but on the freeway, it would slowly overheat because it did not hold enough pressure.

As for the gauge, I'm sure it isn't the most accurate. I agree with Sean90GT. The baking/candy thermometer works great for checking the temp at idle. If you're concerned that you're running fine and the gauge is wrong, pick up a $15 electric gauge and run it for a bit. The stock gauge is probably accurate enough (unless you really need to know exactly what the temp is).
 

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Posted by forced331 (Member # 1270) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by 90FoX:
Thanks everyone. Ill flush the water and put coolant in and probably buy a new cap, because i noticed when it was "overheating" that steam was leaking through the cap so i think it maybe bad. also ill just pull out the thermo to make sure its okay.

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quote:

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Originally posted by sic5pointSLOW:
keep the thermostat stock temp range!!! if u are going to change to a 185 the car will never run in a closed loop. it will always think that it is "warming up"

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I thought that you could get away with a 185. If your going to all the trouble to pull the thermostat out to check it, just replace it. they only cost like $7 or $8.
 

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Posted by 90FoX (Member # 1974) on :
 
Thanks everyone for the input , I ended up just putting a new thermo and radiator and hoses. The Ford Muscle article was good because I ended up buying the modine 3 core. Tomo im going to take it out in the heat for the real test, but tonight it was just a bit above the line next to the "A" in normal.

Mine still has the two brass fittings for an automatic transmission (i have a 5spd) but in this picutre it shows that the author capped them off with some type or red cap.



is this necessary? or can i just leave it with the open brass fittings?


Also on my coolant overflow tank i have a cap but its not connected to the sensor that is in this picture. Whats its purpose and should i connect it ?


[ June 25, 2005, 10:18 PM: Message edited by: 90FoX ]
 

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Posted by forced331 (Member # 1270) on :
 
Put the brass fittings on there!
 

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