This is topic Having some driveability issues, need some help... in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners .
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Posted by roseville5oh (Member # 406) on
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Recently changed my valve covers. Noticed that the 1 inch intake spacer (upper to lower) has been infused with a slight amount of gassy smelling oil. Put it all back together and noticed that the engine was shaking a little more than usual at idle. A few days ago I yanked my tranny and clutch in hopes of tracking down a vibration issue I feel in my shifter handle that is RPM dependant. Clutch was in great shape. Everything looked fine. Put a new polyurethane tranny mount in. Made vibrations worse. I now get a horribly shaky idle. Car idles around 600-800 and sounds like it wants to die. I also pull thermactor inoperative and HEGO o2 always lean code. Car seems to run strong any time I crack the throttle plate. If I unplug the IAB, nothing happens. There is a slight miss under LIGHT load between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm. I just figured that was normal of the cam. Sorry about the novel, any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks Eric
Posted by PunkINa5.SLOW (Member # 10) on
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I can only imagine what your plugs look like.Car to enlighten me?
Posted by roseville5oh (Member # 406) on
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I'll yank one when I get home in a little bit.Dan- I think I'm going to exchange my dampner for a new one to see if it goes away. It's worth a try for troubleshooting.
Posted by PunkINa5.SLOW (Member # 10) on
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Yeah but most of those I have seen get toasted are only on blower cars.I have a spare motorsport one you can try if you want.
Posted by T-TopTerror (Member # 480) on
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Hey Eric,
As for your vibration I'd have to feel it. But as for the drivability just stop by my house I'm sure we could figure this out. 
Posted by roseville5oh (Member # 406) on
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Dan - pulled a plug and it looks normal. I pulled the IAB off the TB while the car was running and it didn't move at all. Voltage to it was around 11 volts.Eric - I'll give you a call. I want to get this shit fixed man. It's driving me nuts.
Posted by st5150 (Member # 51) on
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O2 codes can have a big affect on idle. When O2's get old, they get lazy and throw rich codes though, not lean. Are you getting codes for both O2's, or just one?
Posted by roseville5oh (Member # 406) on
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Sawson - thanks for joining in. Well, i looked up the code in Corral's EEC page and it said left bank O2 was lean:CODE: 91 (KOER) - Left HEGO Lean
Engine: 5.0L
Year: 86-93
Description:
Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor circuit indicates system lean (left HEGO
CODE: 91 (Continuous) - Left HEGO Missing
Engine: 5.0L
Year: 86-93
Description:
No Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor switch detected (left HEGO
I don't understand how that can be the case though. O2's are fairly new. I've got the FP at 46 psi with vac. off. Should be running rich if anything. What do you think? It idles like absolute shit. Car shakes badly at idle.
Posted by 93PONY (Member # 60) on
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A bit of vibration through the tranny seems to be normal with that cam. The poly trans mount will transfer the shake from the drivetrain to the body even more.
Heather ought to take you for a ride in her car. That things shakes WAY more than yours.As for the idle.... I'd say you've got a combination of a bad O2 & IAB valve, which would make the car shake more of course. You can fine tune the idle to not use the IAB as much (especially since you don't have AC), but a new one will smooth it out way better.
I had an IAB valve slowly go out on me once. My throttle respones was AWESOME when that thing was dead! The new one slowed response which was disapointing, but my idle problems dissapeared.
Do you have access to a good working used IAB?
Posted by st5150 (Member # 51) on
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Eric, try this.... since your EEC is only complaining about ONE O2 sensor, switch the O2 sensors around and see if you get a code 41 (right side). If the code follows the sensor, then you found your problem.