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Author
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Topic: The XE274HR and the lovely state of CA!
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2stangs69-91
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Member # 1951
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posted
 
 
My smog test was just a idle and 2500 rpm test no Dyno. My 331 and V2-SQ S trim has plenty of torque. I gave one of my buddies a ride who installs KB bloweres and he was very impressed to say the least. Have fun with what you are doing. wave hello to all the centrifical guy's when the pass you LOL(just having a little fun)
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69 Mustang on hold
1991 LX hatch getting a make over
1994 F150 4X4 351
2006 Yamaha V-max 1200 Modded
Posts: 3711 | From: Redding | Registered: Oct 2002
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NO MANRZ
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Member # 566
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by onesicklx:
[ if your worried about cracking the block going over 500rwhp then why build a 331?...you could do over 500rwhp with just a 306 (even a 302) good heads cam and a blower...just trying to save you a couple of bucks...good luck...
I agree. It sounds like Casey90GT is going to change his combo a few times before reaching his goals. Some like to take the expensive route to learn.
Posts: 1938 | Registered: Nov 2001
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Casey90GT
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Member # 6175
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by NO MANRZ:
quote:
Originally posted by onesicklx:
[ if your worried about cracking the block going over 500rwhp then why build a 331?...you could do over 500rwhp with just a 306 (even a 302) good heads cam and a blower...just trying to save you a couple of bucks...good luck...
I agree. It sounds like Casey90GT is going to change his combo a few times before reaching his goals. Some like to take the expensive route to learn.
Actually, since I am buying a crate motor short block I only had a couple of choices. Consequently the 331 cost me less than a 306 because the place doing my build uses all new components. They are an Eagle dealer, and Eagle doesn't make a stock stroke crankshaft without stepping into the 4340 line. It would have been ludicris to step up to a 4340 forged crank, spending over $450 more, when all of the shops that I spoke with (DSS, Central Coast, and CHP) agreed that a cast steel crank is strong enough for the stock blocks capabilities. I only dropped $2000 on my shortblock, and should end up with something sufficiently stout for only spending $2000. It oughta make 500 rear wheel just fine, and live a while doing it. I didn't have $5000 to find an R302 or Dart block, and use all 4340 forged internals. If I did I would be going with a Vortech or a Pro Charger and aiming closer to the 800 rear wheel mark. According to the folks at KB, I may go decently far over 500 rwhp with this combo, which is not what I want. I really want to keep this build mild. Like I said, I am not trying to build a race car, just a quick street car. I want a combo that will survive! I'm thinking about only running like 8 psi.
Posts: 1064 | From: Santa Rosa | Registered: Nov 2005
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92stangLX
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Member # 3252
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by blind:
I would have gone with the trick flow stage 1 cam
![[patriot]](graemlins/patriot.gif)
I like this cam too. It is a good street cam with good low/mid range power. It is also smog legal.
Posts: 5302 | From: San Francisco | Registered: Sep 2003
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a50sn95
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Member # 527
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posted
NO, none of the TFS cams are "legal" in CA. Meaning they don't have an E.O.
I have the Crane 2031 in mine (which technically isn't legal for my '95. The E.O. is 86-93....), and just passed the dyno with some nice LOW numbers on an old H-pipe....
H/C/I/Vortech car....
Just make sure it's close to 14.7-1 at idle, 15, and 25 mph....
[ November 14, 2005, 06:50 PM: Message edited by: a50sn95 ]
Posts: 226 | From: Galt | Registered: Nov 2001
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