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Topic: Looong shot....looking for my old 5.0 92 LX Hatch, 5 spd ...UPDATE: Found it!
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NEIGHT
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Member # 8741
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quote:
Originally posted by the walrus:
quote:
Originally posted by NEIGHT:
BTW is that a leather wrapped 90-93 steering wheel? Wanna sell? The one on my convertible has a tear in it and drives me crazy.
I will be selling a ton of stuff in time. The steering wheel in the red car has a cut on it (maybe from the glass breaking from the hit?) so I'm not sure if I will use it or not. I know how annoying that can be.
Last night I discovered that the headlights on the white car have bluetooth RGB LEDs in them. My kids had fun changing the colors and seeing the strobe function. ![[Cool]](cool.gif)
Well honestly the one on my drop is more than a tear. It was originally a tear but the owner before me thought he could just yank the little piece off and ended up taking a chunk off the leather. I've been trying to look for a NOS one or a very lightly used one but most leathers seem to be ripped or cracked bad.
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-Savage Habits-
1992 Summer Edition
1986 Hatch- catfish killer
1964 Impala hard top
Posts: 18528 | From: EA$T $IDE REDWOOD CITY | Registered: Nov 2008
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Martinna
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Member # 12493
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Can you super glue another piece of leather in its place and sand it flush? Cover the original leather with tape so the sand paper won't touch it.
Posts: 1093 | From: City | Registered: Oct 2012
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NEIGHT
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Member # 8741
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Martinna:
Can you super glue another piece of leather in its place and sand it flush? Cover the original leather with tape so the sand paper won't touch it.
Maybe? I rather not and just replace the steering wheel. Eventually I'll find a really nice one for a decent price.
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-Savage Habits-
1992 Summer Edition
1986 Hatch- catfish killer
1964 Impala hard top
Posts: 18528 | From: EA$T $IDE REDWOOD CITY | Registered: Nov 2008
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the walrus
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Member # 6010
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Quick update on the project car. I swapped in the good tranny, BH, etc from the donor car, found out that the PO put in a bell housing and clutch fork from a 94 so the geometry was all wrong, no wonder it wouldn't shift right and the clutch fork came off. Cleaned up and installed the junkyard hood. Installed the donor headlights. Cleaned the plastidip off the rims. Was finally able to get all 4 types of lugnuts off the rims, lol.
The car shifts fine now, motor pulls strong but I'm still gonna yank it out. This car will get completely gutted and then I'll focus on body and paint.
Making progress little by little, and still having fun with it. With the mild HCI and 4.10s it will fishtail 2nd gear quite nicely. ![[burnout]](graemlins/burnout.gif)
[ 2019-02-04, 08:56 AM: Message edited by: the walrus ]
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1992 LX Hatch 13.9@99, sold and bought back after 11 years and restored.
1965 FFR Cobra (sold)
2003 Mach 1 (sold)
Moved from Sac, CA to SLC, UT
Posts: 281 | From: SLC, UT | Registered: Sep 2005
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Marks93
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Member # 11130
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![[worship]](graemlins/worship.gif)
Great progress. Keep the updates coming!!
It's amazing the crap people do to these cars. ![[Mad]](mad.gif)
[ 2019-02-04, 01:04 PM: Message edited by: Marks93 ]
Posts: 824 | From: Earth | Registered: Jul 2011
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Martinna
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Member # 12493
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The input shaft from a 94 95 T5 is a different length. I am not sure a pre 94 T5 would have bolted up to that 94 bell housing you had. Drive shaft length would probably be an issue too.
Plan to put Cobra R wheels back on?
Posts: 1093 | From: City | Registered: Oct 2012
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the walrus
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Member # 6010
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I need to post up another video soon.
Correct, as the 94/95 bellhousing is deeper, the input shaft length is about 3/4 inch longer. The trans that was in the car is from a 92 (bolted up fine) but it is likely that the input shaft wasn't even touching the pilot bearing. And then the clutch fork was about 2 inches too long as well. Oh well, shifts great now. So glad I bought a donor car. As it was said before in this thread, this thing is whooped. ![[dance]](graemlins/dance.gif)
Edit: Yes I am planning on silver 5 lug Cobra Rs. They look kinda dated now but they were awesome back in the day.
[ 2019-02-04, 06:18 PM: Message edited by: the walrus ]
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1992 LX Hatch 13.9@99, sold and bought back after 11 years and restored.
1965 FFR Cobra (sold)
2003 Mach 1 (sold)
Moved from Sac, CA to SLC, UT
Posts: 281 | From: SLC, UT | Registered: Sep 2005
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the walrus
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Member # 6010
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Quick video, cleaning plastidip off the wheels and fun with mismatched lugnuts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3E1OKoQR5Os&t=
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1992 LX Hatch 13.9@99, sold and bought back after 11 years and restored.
1965 FFR Cobra (sold)
2003 Mach 1 (sold)
Moved from Sac, CA to SLC, UT
Posts: 281 | From: SLC, UT | Registered: Sep 2005
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Martinna
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Member # 12493
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The input shaft bearings of the 92 T5 could have gotten damaged if it was wobbling around with the fly wheel on its tip and no pilot bearing. Remove the throw out bearing retainer to take off the input shaft and inspect its bearing. It is not hard to remove and replace the input shaft bearing on T5 and T45 transmissions. If the splines on the input shaft are starting to twist like a screw you'll need to replace the input shaft to get back good smooth clutch control.
Posts: 1093 | From: City | Registered: Oct 2012
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the walrus
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Member # 6010
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Martinna:
The input shaft bearings of the 92 T5 could have gotten damaged if it was wobbling around with the fly wheel on its tip and no pilot bearing. Remove the throw out bearing retainer to take off the input shaft and inspect its bearing. It is not hard to remove and replace the input shaft bearing on T5 and T45 transmissions. If the splines on the input shaft are starting to twist like a screw you'll need to replace the input shaft to get back good smooth clutch control.
Agreed. That trans was pretty noisy all around so it is due for a full rebuild. Luckily the trans from the donor car is smooth and quiet.
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1992 LX Hatch 13.9@99, sold and bought back after 11 years and restored.
1965 FFR Cobra (sold)
2003 Mach 1 (sold)
Moved from Sac, CA to SLC, UT
Posts: 281 | From: SLC, UT | Registered: Sep 2005
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NEIGHT
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Member # 8741
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posted
I kinda like the wheel setup on the white hatch now. What kind of wheels are those?
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-Savage Habits-
1992 Summer Edition
1986 Hatch- catfish killer
1964 Impala hard top
Posts: 18528 | From: EA$T $IDE REDWOOD CITY | Registered: Nov 2008
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the walrus
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Member # 6010
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by NEIGHT:
I kinda like the wheel setup on the white hatch now. What kind of wheels are those?
They are Niche 18s. Model is Niche M131 Targa Silver with machined face.
They do look kinda cool from 20 feet but up close they are oxidized a fair bit. I may actually do plastidip on them again, like an anthracite color with glossifier. Could look nice if done right. Either way they will ultimately be sold.
Hey Neight did you see this:
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-3600-GT350/mustang-sve-fr350-steering-wheel-90-93
Or they have the regular black one for $199.
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1992 LX Hatch 13.9@99, sold and bought back after 11 years and restored.
1965 FFR Cobra (sold)
2003 Mach 1 (sold)
Moved from Sac, CA to SLC, UT
Posts: 281 | From: SLC, UT | Registered: Sep 2005
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i
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Member # 12534
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by the walrus:
quote:
Originally posted by NEIGHT:
I kinda like the wheel setup on the white hatch now. What kind of wheels are those?
They are Niche 18s. Model is Niche M131 Targa Silver with machined face.
They do look kinda cool from 20 feet but up close they are oxidized a fair bit. I may actually do plastidip on them again, like an anthracite color with glossifier. Could look nice if done right. Either way they will ultimately be sold.
Hey Neight did you see this:
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-3600-GT350/mustang-sve-fr350-steering-wheel-90-93
Or they have the regular black one for $199.
I would buy it if it was 85-86 svo wheel 3 spoke.
Nice update on the car looks way better.
Posts: 1901 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Nov 2012
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the walrus
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Member # 6010
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Tranny swap vid, out of order a bit...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IcP66L4ICYU&t=
Next vid will be gutting the interior.
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1992 LX Hatch 13.9@99, sold and bought back after 11 years and restored.
1965 FFR Cobra (sold)
2003 Mach 1 (sold)
Moved from Sac, CA to SLC, UT
Posts: 281 | From: SLC, UT | Registered: Sep 2005
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Martinna
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Member # 12493
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posted
Coming together nice. Finding a clean donor car was the best thing you did. If you can feel the ridges on the throw out bearing retainer with your fingernails, use medium grit emery cloth to sand it down until it's smooth. If it's aluminum, it's worth the $50 to get a steel retainer and never have to hassle with it again.
Posts: 1093 | From: City | Registered: Oct 2012
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the walrus
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Member # 6010
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Martinna:
Finding a clean donor car was the best thing you did.
Truer words were never spoken my friend. I would be so hosed without the donor car. Gutting the 92 this week I have found so much stuff, wiring going nowhere, homemade brackets, more stuff missing or not connected. I think the door lock actuators are from the HELP section at Oreilly's or maybe from Harbor Freight, they're definitely not factory. I just shake my head all day long. The donor car is what will make this build possible while keeping my sanity lol.
Good call on the emery cloth. When I do the final reassembly I think I'll just throw a new steel unit on there and forget about it.
More to come...
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1992 LX Hatch 13.9@99, sold and bought back after 11 years and restored.
1965 FFR Cobra (sold)
2003 Mach 1 (sold)
Moved from Sac, CA to SLC, UT
Posts: 281 | From: SLC, UT | Registered: Sep 2005
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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fwiw, I have had better luck with aftermarket door lock actuators that don't mount or look like the original ford ones. All the replacement stock ones I tried from 50resto and foxresto have been junk, maybe my door lock stuff is gummy and has extra resistance but I couldn't consistently get them to lock/unlock, which is a PITA since I have been working on putting in an RFID passive keyless system (just walk up to it like a modern car with key in pocket and the car unlocks, walk away and it locks).
I switched to a super powerful one that just clamps onto the lock rod and although a lot louder, it works every damn time!
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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the walrus
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Member # 6010
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This is what is in my 92 right now:
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Door-Lock-Actuator-Motor/dp/B00V7BFHIG
One of them used the included bracket and the other has one screw and is just dangling more or less. Quality my brothers... lol.
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1992 LX Hatch 13.9@99, sold and bought back after 11 years and restored.
1965 FFR Cobra (sold)
2003 Mach 1 (sold)
Moved from Sac, CA to SLC, UT
Posts: 281 | From: SLC, UT | Registered: Sep 2005
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the walrus
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Member # 6010
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posted
Junkyard hood polished up nicely. I used a magic eraser to get the paint pen off, then did clay bar, 2 steps of machine polishing and some wax. Plenty of deep scratches in it but got some of the shine back. Still may run the cowl hood from the donor car but I wanted to get this one cleaned up anyway.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K-Kv9jekxCE
[ 2019-03-07, 11:30 PM: Message edited by: the walrus ]
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1992 LX Hatch 13.9@99, sold and bought back after 11 years and restored.
1965 FFR Cobra (sold)
2003 Mach 1 (sold)
Moved from Sac, CA to SLC, UT
Posts: 281 | From: SLC, UT | Registered: Sep 2005
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by the walrus:
This is what is in my 92 right now:
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Door-Lock-Actuator-Motor/dp/B00V7BFHIG
One of them used the included bracket and the other has one screw and is just dangling more or less. Quality my brothers... lol.
yep that's the style I have in one of my doors which has worked flawless for 9 years, where-as the replacement ford OE one lasted less than 6 months before I tried it. If it were me, I'd just make sure they are mounted securely and they don't interfere with window track/glass or door panel. The ford ones are f'ing junk and a joke in terms of reliability, IMO.
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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the walrus
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Member # 6010
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posted
Good to know. If they work maybe I'll just hook them up right and run em. Thanks for the info.
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1992 LX Hatch 13.9@99, sold and bought back after 11 years and restored.
1965 FFR Cobra (sold)
2003 Mach 1 (sold)
Moved from Sac, CA to SLC, UT
Posts: 281 | From: SLC, UT | Registered: Sep 2005
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Robb
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Member # 9444
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Crazy to see how beat down that car became over the course of 10 years. Its no wonder why clean examples of Fox bodies are bringing so much money these now.
[ 2019-03-09, 02:50 PM: Message edited by: Robb ]
Posts: 2467 | From: Sacramento,CA | Registered: Sep 2009
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Martinna
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Member # 12493
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Ford used the same lock actuator on a lot of different cars. They only changed the shaft length. If the rubber boot over the boot wears out, moisture and dirt wears out grease and kills the mechanics. Grease up the shaft, all the joints and replace worn boots.
Posts: 1093 | From: City | Registered: Oct 2012
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the walrus
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Member # 6010
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Car is basically gutted. Getting ready to start body work.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpVQYZPSLBM&t
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1992 LX Hatch 13.9@99, sold and bought back after 11 years and restored.
1965 FFR Cobra (sold)
2003 Mach 1 (sold)
Moved from Sac, CA to SLC, UT
Posts: 281 | From: SLC, UT | Registered: Sep 2005
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NEIGHT
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Member # 8741
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posted
Nice, keep up the work! I like seeing cars getting stripped down and built back up.
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-Savage Habits-
1992 Summer Edition
1986 Hatch- catfish killer
1964 Impala hard top
Posts: 18528 | From: EA$T $IDE REDWOOD CITY | Registered: Nov 2008
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