This is topic FiTech and smog. in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by Brokn Nx (Member # 8526) on :
 
Anybody tried running a carb’d fox, 85 and earlier, through a smog check with a FiTech efi setup to see if they catch it? There’s a unit that looks a lot like a carb, and Holley makes a similar product as well. I know it’s not kosher, but probably cleaner emission wise than any carb ever made.
 
Posted by wilit (Member # 3367) on :
 
Doubtful it would pass visual. It doesn't have an EO number and wouldn't be classified as a stock replacement part.
 
Posted by Brokn Nx (Member # 8526) on :
 
I’d doesn’t pass visual, the question is, would shops even notice it because it’s not super obvious with a stock air cleaner on. It looks like a carb.
 
Posted by Blown93Snake (Member # 94) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Brokn Nx:
I’d doesn’t pass visual, the question is, would shops even notice it because it’s not super obvious with a stock air cleaner on. It looks like a carb.
Depends on the shop, dude.

One I took mine to noticed a fucking adj. fpr.. tucked away.. ugh.
 
Posted by Martinna (Member # 12493) on :
 
I agree with the guy above. It depends on the shop. If the tech is a guy use to newer import cars, he won't know what a carburetor is. A new tech that just graduated might not know what a carburetor is. If it's dirty and faded, he'll think it's stock. You must run the minimum timing allowed to pass smog with low numbers. Probably 7 degrees at idle is the minimum allowed for your car. Retard the advance with the FiTech EFI system a lot more if it allows it.
 
Posted by Brokn Nx (Member # 8526) on :
 
I’m planning on leaving the stock distributor setup as it doesn’t look suspicious. The FiTech won’t be running my distributor, just the fuel. There’s a zillion vacuum lines on 85 and earlier cars, so hiding the fuel system is less challenging.
 
Posted by Martinna (Member # 12493) on :
 
Run the minimum 7 degrees base timing with the stock setup. Lower timing lowers both NO and HC emissions. Everything else raises one and lowers the other. Both rich and too lean are equally bad. Your air fuel needs to be right at 15 and 25 MPH light load cruise. Anodized metal stands out as non factory to a tech. Replace or cover up all anodized metal under your hood. Wrap it with electrical tape if you have to. Let us know what ends up happening.
 
Posted by Brokn Nx (Member # 8526) on :
 
Several years ago I built a ‘legal’ long block for it using a 306, AFR 165’s and a stock HO cam. The intake is the Edelbrock Performer 302 with the egr passages. It has bbk shorties and a true dual setup off an 86 and later. Exhaust heat risers have been tacked on for a stocky look. The distributor has a custom curve from Performance Distributors. I’ve passed with a stock 4180 carb and a 4160, neither time was the air cleaner removed to check the carb. Everything is painted, nothing sticks out. Even the Motorsport plug wires are black!

The car sits alot, so the efi would be easier to deal with when the fuel gets stale, no more rebuilds! Good news is, we don’t have the chassis dyno test in my zip, just the idle and 2,500 test.
 
Posted by Martinna (Member # 12493) on :
 
Do you have a wide O2 meter? The challenging dyno test is made more challenging with an idle test. Catalytic converters are tuned to work best around 14.6:1. Use a wide band O2 to tune your FiTech and get a perfect 14.6:1 air fuel ratio at idle and 2500 RPM. Ethanol lowers it. I've heard 14.5 and 14.3:1 for winter fuel. Let us know if you find the answer. Does the tech measure your base timing in your county? If base timing isn't measured, almost any car can pass with heavily retarded timing. You don't want it popping through the intake. You want it retarded so it still runs okay. Usually it's at 0 degrees to negative 5 degrees. If you can tune the curve, cutting the whole timing curve by 50% is a good start for smog.
 
Posted by Brokn Nx (Member # 8526) on :
 
I use a wideband to tune the carbs, with the 4180 it’s really clean, the 4160 not so much. As for the FiTech, I’m hoping it runs near stoich at idle.
 
Posted by Martinna (Member # 12493) on :
 
I can help you with tuning if you post your 4160 smog number results.
A lopey cam will trick the O2 sensor at idle. If your last smog numbers have a low HC and high NO, it means you are lean at idle, even if the wide band says you're at stoich.
 




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