This is topic 3g upgrade in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by SacGrown89GT (Member # 7435) on :
 
Finally did the upgrade to my 89. So i have a few questions to anyone who has done it and succeeded.

1. Do i really need to add a fuse between the alternator and silenoid?

2. Did i need to also hook up the 2 black and orange wires to the positive post on the alternator?

Thanks for any help
 

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Posted by diablounicorn (Member # 13033) on :
 
yea you need a fuse or circuit breaker. i used a 140amp circuit breaker.

dont use the black/orange wire unless you upgrade all your grounds, that still can be an fire starter that because it cant handle all the amp from the alternator. some people got away with using it, some didnt but it is recommended to up grade your ground wires if you using those wires. i skipped that electric taped it until i upgrade all the ground.
 

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Posted by SacGrown89GT (Member # 7435) on :
 
Thanks i appreciate it. Ill work on that today. Will a 100 amp circuit breaker work ok?
 

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Posted by diablounicorn (Member # 13033) on :
 
your alternator is 130amp you might want play safe and stick with a 130amp and up circuit breaker or fuse.
 

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Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on :
 
Just because an ALT is 130A Does not mean it will put out anywhere near that. Normally it will never reach half it's output at best. We use the stock wiring in most cases with absolutely no issues whatsoever. Remember the alt only supplies the current your car requires and normally the battery recovers rather quickly after the initial start. In order for the alt to put out 100% charge rate it has to spin at Max RPM Normally 16,000 RPM and have a very heavy load. Adding a heavy feed wire is always good but most people go overboard on it. A Number 8 or 6 AWG is fine for just about any car on the road today. And as far as grounding the case of the alt is your ground on the system. And always use a fuse breaker or link if you install a new feed wire.(we normally dont do this because it is not necessary in most cases). Normally a protector somewhere around 100A max is what we use. having to big a protector can cause more troubles. If you have the alt i am thinking about it has 2 heavy feed wires on a heavy plug. If you parallel them they are plenty big enough for your instillation. The fire hazard on those old non lug alternators were the plug arrangement not the wiring.

[ 2014-04-24, 04:16 AM: Message edited by: Tom Renzo ]
 

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Posted by nasty93 (Member # 8935) on :
 
I use a 175amp fuse out of an expedition.works great.find one at pic n pull for almost nothing.get the plastic holder too.
 

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Posted by SacGrown89GT (Member # 7435) on :
 


I was just curious because i know a couple guys that dont have any kind of fuse and theyve been fine without one for years.

Heres a pic of my circuit breaker...

 

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Posted by 86_on_DA_machs (Member # 11083) on :
 
I know a few people that upgraded the alternators and didn't add the fuse breaker and haven't had any issues
 

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Posted by SacGrown89GT (Member # 7435) on :
 
Yeah same here. Well i put on a 100 amp circuit breaker. Not a cheap one either cause i know some go for like $10. This one i got from work and they go for $60. So its better than nothing i guess

Also whats the average voltage i should have now? Cause with a/c full blast amd radio and lights my battery readys 12.7 at idle. And then like 13.9 when i go
 

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Posted by diablounicorn (Member # 13033) on :
 
same spot i have mines, but i have my stock air box still.
 

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Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on :
 
12.7 is low. What is the voltage at 1200 RPM'S ??? It is important to have a fuse breaker or link somewhere in the system to protect the car from fire in case one of the diodes in the alt shorts out. But i would not go higher than 100A That is sufficient in my opinion and experience!!

[ 2014-04-24, 06:21 PM: Message edited by: Tom Renzo ]
 

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Posted by Duncan Motors (Member # 7045) on :
 
i didnt have a fuse or breaker in a old school that i did this too, and my chevy alt conversion took a dump and put out some crazy 24 volts or close and fried everything electrical in the car, so,,,,,,,,,,,,, i run them every time now lol
 

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Posted by SacGrown89GT (Member # 7435) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by Tom Renzo:
12.7 is low. What is the voltage at 1200 RPM'S ??? It is important to have a fuse breaker or link somewhere in the system to protect the car from fire in case one of the diodes in the alt shorts out. But i would not go higher than 100A That is sufficient in my opinion and experience!!

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quote:

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Originally posted by Tom Renzo:
The protector is placed at the furthest point away from the alt. It is not there to protect the alt it there to protect the wire. It has to be near the battery or at the end of the heavy wire closest to the source of power. Another words the battery. Now just for the record and do not take this wrong!! Ford alternators SUCK BIG TIME. A chevy alternator is the way to go. They always charge at idle and they put out more than enough power to run your car. As far as those so called 200A alternators they do put out more power but no where near 200A. Once again they would have to be spun at MAX RPM and even at that they will not put out 200 AMPS. Once again as i posted up dating to a bigger alt especially a ford one is very disappointing at best. Remember most alternators will normally charge at approximately the same power. Just a fact. The chevy ALT is wired Y where as the Ford units are delta. You should never have a voltage flare up from off idle to lets say 1200 RPM.Only if you are having a very high load and the alt can not keep up. Once again the alt you are using is a good one one of the best ford has for this application but it is no where near as good as a gm unit!!

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What alt you recommend? I can still return this one. Thanks. And ill b switchin fuse toward battery side
 

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Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on :
 
You need a GM 140A with 180* ears that can mount in your ford. Take the old alt with you to come up with a match. The pulley can be transferred to the new alt.But first check out the pulley ratio. It just might be a ratio issue. Better to check and maybe you can use what you have . Good luck!!

[ 2014-04-25, 04:45 PM: Message edited by: Tom Renzo ]
 

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Posted by SacGrown89GT (Member # 7435) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by Tom Renzo:
You need a GM 140A with 180* ears that can mount in your ford. Take the old alt with you to come up with a match. The pulley can be transferred to the new alt.But first check out the pulley ratio. It just might be a ratio issue. Better to check and maybe you can use what you have . Good luck!!

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quote:

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Originally posted by Tom Renzo:
Let me look around the shop i think i have an old one with a part number. Hang tight!!

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Thank you
 

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Posted by *Als50* (Member # 6003) on :
 
Pm sent. Remember the "kiss" principle, Tom.
 

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Posted by racsirx (Member # 1710) on :
 
http://www.corral.net/index.php/tech/electronics/67-fox-3-130-amp-3g-alternator-upgrade
 

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Posted by SacGrown89GT (Member # 7435) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by racsirx:
http://www.corral.net/index.php/tech/electronics/67-fox-3-130-amp-3g-alternator-upgrade

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but no where in there does it say about a 4ga wire and fuse

[ 2014-04-26, 11:06 AM: Message edited by: SacGrown89GT ]
 

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Posted by *Als50* (Member # 6003) on :
 
Lee's seen my setup in my bucket. 1/0 gauge wire with a 200ap fuse.
 

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Posted by racsirx (Member # 1710) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by SacGrown89GT:

quote:

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Originally posted by racsirx:
http://www.corral.net/index.php/tech/electronics/67-fox-3-130-amp-3g-alternator-upgrade

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but no where in there does it say about a 4ga wire and fuse

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I posted it to show you the voltage readings, yours seemed kinda of low
 

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Posted by SacGrown89GT (Member # 7435) on :
 
Yeah like i said only when i rev up jus a tiny but the volts shoot up
 

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Posted by SacGrown89GT (Member # 7435) on :
 
Ok something is def wrong. So i just checked it and at idle with no a/c or lights its at high 12s. With ac and lights high 11s. I think that alt is no good. Ima go tommorow and swap it out
 

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Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on :
 
That alternator is NG. Or it is turning to slow. Pulley ratio please!!! By the way 200A breaker or fuse and a 1/0 cable. WHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!! Talk about a waste of money. Read the article the guy used a number 10 AWG in the article
 

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Posted by SacGrown89GT (Member # 7435) on :
 
Yeah ima exchange it tomorrow before something messes up
 

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Posted by racsirx (Member # 1710) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by Tom Renzo:
That alternator is NG. Or it is turning to slow. Pulley ratio please!!! By the way 200A breaker or fuse and a 1/0 cable. WHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!! Talk about a waste of money. Read the article the guy used a number 10 AWG in the article

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Yeah but that was written back in 1996, I always use 4 gauge
 

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Posted by *Als50* (Member # 6003) on :
 
Tom......with all due respect....STFU....thanks....
 

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Posted by *Als50* (Member # 6003) on :
 
Dp.

[ 2014-04-26, 10:07 PM: Message edited by: *Als50* ]
 

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Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on :
 
What is STFU???? Does that make an alternator work properly. I have been in this business for many years and even a trunk mounted battery does not require a 1/0 cable. And i crank over 1600 WHEEL HP ENGINES. Why in the world would an alternator need a 1/0 cable. If that is what floats your boat that is great. But an entire waste of time as the ALT lug at even 5/16 diameter can never handle the current a 1/0 cable can carry. Basically you are limited to the size of the battery lug on the ALT. So does this alternator have a GIGANTIC BOLT TO CARRY THAT CURRENT??? Please advise.

[ 2014-04-26, 09:18 PM: Message edited by: Tom Renzo ]
 

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Posted by SacGrown89GT (Member # 7435) on :
 
I have a belly button

I came to a conclusion that the alt it a POS and im returning it tomorrow. Ill keep you guys posted tomorrow on outcome. Im also going to put the circuit breaker closer to battery instead of alternator. Thanks cafords i appreciate any help and you guys have been plenty
 

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Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on :
 
I think you have a bum alt. I checked my mustang today and it has a 130 and it idles at 14.6 volts as it should.
 

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Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on :
 
@*Als50* here is a detroit with a 250Amp alt. Look at the size of this alternator. It is a true full output unit capable of a full 250 Amps. Note the factory battery cable. It is a number 4 AWG. Now tell me you have a 200Amp alternator that fits the stock mount on any car you own or have built that needs a 1/0 cable. I for one call that a stretch at best. So how big are your battery cables 4/0 fascinating!! This alternator has 7/16 uss lugs for the ground and battery feed and it is fed with a number 4 AWG as stated above and verified by my trusty craftsmen open end wrench. Thank YOU



[ 2014-04-26, 08:28 PM: Message edited by: Tom Renzo ]
 

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Posted by *Als50* (Member # 6003) on :
 
Its time to step away from the computer, Tom.....
 

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Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on :
 
Why is it that you do not like good info!! Or are you so versed in the automotive trades you do not like to hear factual info!!! Just checking. By the way i double checked the battery lug size on a 3G and it can handle exactly 100 Amps continuously. So that would necessitate a number 8 AWG. But being an alternator in a car only puts out app 40-45% of its power it would safely be wired with a number 10 AWG. So be it as it may your number 1/0 cable is mighty impressive to people that do not understand whats going on or just a talking point at the car hang out. Thanks

[ 2014-04-27, 05:26 AM: Message edited by: Tom Renzo ]
 

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Posted by triple b (Member # 8763) on :
 
Tom Renzo easy search pops up all the other ford site you have been to and one by one everyone found out your just a hack, talk alot of bullshit and have no verified experience at all. GTFOH.
 

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Posted by SacGrown89GT (Member # 7435) on :
 
Update:
Got another alternator today. Volts still read low. Im taking battery in tomorrow to get checked. Anyone have a clue of what it can be besides alternator or battery? Basically my volts never hit 14. And since day one volts drop from 11-high 13s. Its fkn frustrating
 

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Posted by triple b (Member # 8763) on :
 
bad cell in the battery. and when they check it with the cheezy volt meter ove rthe counter and say it good have them put it on the charger to "full charge" it and it may not take a full charge because it has a bad cell. just my 2 cents not that it not happened before...
 

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Posted by SacGrown89GT (Member # 7435) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by triple b:
bad cell in the battery. and when they check it with the cheezy volt meter ove rthe counter and say it good have them put it on the charger to "full charge" it and it may not take a full charge because it has a bad cell. just my 2 cents not that it not happened before...

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Yeah its what im thinking now. Good thing i have warranty on it. Gonna jus get a new one. F all the bs! Thanks
 

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Posted by diablounicorn (Member # 13033) on :
 
did you change the pulley? i put my stock pulley on the 3g, i read that the stock 3g pulley spin slower.
 

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Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on :
 
@ Triple B If you think i BS that is your prerogative. But as far as my ability building cars and owning a shop that has been in my family since 1900. I have a photo for you. my reputation is everything and in this business people do not like to hear when they do something wrong or someone corrects them. That is what these sites are all about. It is personal experience and what works in this business. If you like i will bow out of this site if in fact you can post a photo of your accomplishments. Bellow is some of my accomplishments. First place in many many car shows across the country with my cars that i build. So here is some now post yours or tell your story walking. Now can you identify the car bellow. I could care less what you say about me i was trying to help this guy out. Sorry for taking my time to help this person as usual there is someone like you that gets pissed off when someone actually knows something about a subject. I think in 51 years i have earned the ability to pass on my knowledge. If in fact this site and other car sites do not like my answers PROVE ME WRONG . If so i will man up and move on just so your pride is not hurt. Now i have to go to work as i have been doing in my shop for 51 years. And William Chase from SEAL POWER seems to like my engine building techniques as they used my Connecting rod modification to repair and recall thousands of 2.3 fords which i specialize in, Now i am not mad at you but you should give people a chance before bad mouthing them. Please explain what is with you and the attitude!!







[ 2014-04-28, 03:17 AM: Message edited by: Tom Renzo ]
 

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Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on :
 
Here is the print for the 3G did you wire it correctly and does the dash alt or battery light up when you key the car?? If in fact the light on the dash does not come on it wont charge. Good luck!!

http://www.bcbroncos.com/3ginstall.pdf
 

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Posted by SacGrown89GT (Member # 7435) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by diablounicorn:
did you change the pulley? i put my stock pulley on the 3g, i read that the stock 3g pulley spin slower.

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quote:

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Originally posted by Tom Renzo:
Here is the print for the 3G did you wire it correctly and does the dash alt or battery light up when you key the car?? If in fact the light on the dash does not come on it wont charge. Good luck!!

http://www.bcbroncos.com/3ginstall.pdf

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quote:

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Originally posted by Tom Renzo:
I think you have a bum alt. I checked my mustang today and it has a 130 and it idles at 14.6 volts as it should.

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This post alone proves that you dont know your shit. Come one you had to "check" if your mustang had a 130. Everyone that has done this conversion know what the fuck is on their car. And as far as your pictures that prove what? Nothing on there has your name and my point is that you throw your "experience" around as if you have the biggest cock around this site and your word is law. Your initial post was to clown someone else on the board for suggesting a bigger wire then "Tom suggested". Its funny that that your pissed off with all your exclamation points and capitalized spam, but yet you think I mad. You can't take what you dish out on a daily basis.
 

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Posted by triple b (Member # 8763) on :
 
http://webpages.charter.net/darrell1/mustang_electrical.html

^ this is a very good write up if you don't have a bronco, or pinto...or want ACdelco GM parts on ur car.
 

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Posted by racsirx (Member # 1710) on :
 
I agree with you triple b, I forget what exactly made me think he is full of it, I think it was his disbelief of my dyno numbers I have made with a S-trim and a turbo and my 1/4 mile times.
 

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Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on :
 
Both those alternators can not be bad. The reason i posted about one of my mustang alternators was because it has a 3G with reduced pulleys and it charges normally at an idle.I had to figure out Which mustang had the reduced pulley and a 130 ford alt. Reason being i always convert them to GM units. I did not get to this particular car yet and it is 100% stock other than the pulley ( i bought the car this way). It took me a while to figure out which one it was. Thats why i posted what i did. So if you do not excite the alt with a dash light or power it if you have a gauge it will not charge. Unless of course it is a single wire unit. Hope this helps. Good luck

NOTE i was not aware what capitals meant when posting.. My daughter explained it to me as yelling at someone and i do apologize for that. My main concern is helping others and posting my experience to those that will take the advice. If you think i am throwing bull so be it. Years back i did not have a camera and people said without photos i was a bull thrower. Now i learned how to post photos of my work and modifications and people still call me a bull thrower. I guess i can not win.

[ 2014-04-28, 05:48 PM: Message edited by: Tom Renzo ]
 

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Posted by *Als50* (Member # 6003) on :
 
This shit is too funny.....
 

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Posted by fredfifty (Member # 10320) on :
 
My readings are exactly like the bronco manual, however my stock battery gauge needle still sits below the M (half way) point?? Do i need a new gauge? Do they go bad?
 

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Posted by triple b (Member # 8763) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by Tom Renzo:
Both those alternators can not be bad. The reason i posted about one of my mustang alternators was because it has a 3G with reduced pulleys and it charges normally at an idle.I had to figure out Which mustang had the reduced pulley and a 130 ford alt. Reason being i always convert them to GM units. I did not get to this particular car yet and it is 100% stock other than the pulley ( i bought the car this way). It took me a while to figure out which one it was. Thats why i posted what i did. So if you do not excite the alt with a dash light or power it if you have a gauge it will not charge. Unless of course it is a single wire unit. Hope this helps. Good luck

NOTE i was not aware what capitals meant when posting.. My daughter explained it to me as yelling at someone and i do apologize for that. My main concern is helping others and posting my experience to those that will take the advice. If you think i am throwing bull so be it. Years back i did not have a camera and people said without photos i was a bull thrower. Now i learned how to post photos of my work and modifications and people still call me a bull thrower. I guess i can not win.

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No you cant win because you try to hard to prove other wise. It throws red flags, that others on this board can see through the bull shit. Im not doubting your expertise its the fact that your a dick to everyone else that gives advise contrary to what you believe...Oh btw (by the way) foxbody mustangs are not "100%" stock with a 3G alt. Which further address my point your use of absolutes is annoying and "bullshit" to my standards so consider yourself educated now you know foxbody mustangs don't come stock with a 3G alt...and your excuses nobody cares just quit being a dick its fucking annoying
 

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Posted by SacGrown89GT (Member # 7435) on :
 
Idk why the hell im so confused. Im sure i have the wiring right but can someone please take pics of their wiring so i can copy it? I think im jus over thinkin everything.
 

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Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on :
 
There you go i never said i checked a FOX BODY did i. But i checked my fourth gen for the charging comparison. Not a third gen. And my forth gen in fact has a 3G.


3G alternator (130 amp comes in large and small frame sizes 3G alternator (130 amp) comes in large and small frame sizes small frame can be found stock in some 1995 5.0L Mustang

They came in these cars just a short list

3.8l Tbird non s/c
3.8l windstar
all 94-95 5.0l stangs

This info was supplied by FORD!! Not me!!

Ok here is ME in the flesh with one of our conversions. This way you have no dought it is me. By the way the Ferrari is a short wheel base GTO. We also build foreign jobs, And just for the record it makes no difference to me my cars work. And just for the record i own many many fords as well as GM so please spare me the GM crap. Can we move on now and stop bashing each other Thank you. lets just help this guy!! If i annoyed anyone i apologize. It is not my intent to do that. All i want to do is help people like me that love cars. Thank you.





[ 2014-04-29, 04:54 AM: Message edited by: Tom Renzo ]
 

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Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on :
 
OK is your alternator wired like this


B+ battery post large wired directly over to regulator A terminal? Is the single spade tip connector wired to the S regulator terminal? And is the I terminal wired to ignition switch key battery or battery indicator lamp with a bridged resistor? If so it is wired correctly and should work. Check this and post back. Good luck!
 

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Posted by triple b (Member # 8763) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by SacGrown89GT:
Idk why the hell im so confused. Im sure i have the wiring right but can someone please take pics of their wiring so i can copy it? I think im jus over thinkin everything.

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5. Wiring modifications. Remove any tape and conduit from the wiring harness on the D-shaped plug to expose the two 10 gauge (black w/orange stripe) wires. These two wires come out of the rectangle connector and then join to one wire. Cut the wires where they join into one which will leave the two wires on the rectangle connector. This will leave you with a single 10 gauge wire. This wire will still have power because it shares a fusible link with another wire at the starter solenoid. You can go thru the work of chasing the wire back to the solenoid and cutting it there or you can simply tape the end off where you made the cut. You can also use a butt connector to cover the end of the wire. In this harness you will also find a smaller white wire with a black stripe. This is the stator wire. Cut the stator wire off of the factory rectangle connector and discard the connector. This stator wire is on a separate connector on the 3G alternator which you can find at a salvage yard and possibly at an auto parts store. If you can�t find a factory plug anywhere, you can use a female spade connector. The D-shaped plug from your factory alternator will plug right into your 3G alternator so you can go ahead and plug that in now.



Now its time to run your new power (4 - 6 gauge) wire. You can run it along the factory conduit in front of the radiator or you can make it nicer install and actually run the wire thru the conduit so everything looks like it came from the factory that way. If you choose to run the wire inside of the factory conduit you will need to remove your battery and battery tray as the factory conduit runs underneath it. After you are done running your new wire you can secure the factory harness in place and reinstall the battery tray and battery if you removed them.



When you connect the wire to the starter solenoid it would be wise to use a fusible link or an inline fuse (150 amp) in case the wire or alternator would short out for any reason. Always solder wire connections and use shrink tube to cover the connection. Now you can install a 3/8 ring terminal on the end of the wire and connect it to the battery side of your starter solenoid. Then install a 1/4 ring terminal on the other end of the new power wire and connect it to the alternator post. Go back and double check your installation. Make sure the wires don�t get in the way of any hot or moving parts. Tape up the new wires at the alternator nice and tight just like the factory harness was


The small white wire with black stripe stator wire the other wires black with orange that joins the other wire junk it or cut it back and tape the end... put a new power wire with fusible link in or fuse and wire it up...

[ 2014-04-29, 08:55 AM: Message edited by: triple b ]
 

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Posted by triple b (Member # 8763) on :
 
The 3G can be re-clocked by removing the 3 bolts on the housing and simply clocking the the base into the position need to fit the mustang... and it came in a shit load of cars.

- 94-95 Mustang V8
- 94-98 V6's
- Other cars with the 3.8L motor in it. 5.0L cougars with the 94-95 style motor and others.
- There are a lot of cars with the 3g alt that will fit. Late 90's is when Ford switched to the 4G alternator.

- Mid 90s Taurus and escort. Says 130A on the back etched into it.
- 93-96 Taurus 3.0 V-6 (non SHO)
- 94-96 Mustang 3.8 V-6
- 94-95 Mustang 5.0
- 94-96 Thunderbird 3.8 V-6 (non SC)
- 95-96 Windstar 3.0 V-6 (most are 3.8's)
- 93-96 E/F series Trucks/Vans 4.9 L6*
- 96 Sable 3.0 V-6
- 94-96 Cougar 3.8 V-6
*Probably the best one if you can get it (should be easy to find, too) is off the E/F series...this series uses a threaded top ear like the stocker on the Mustang....E/F series with threaded ear uses metric bolt. ALSO, make sure the E/F series is 130 Amps and NOT 95. For all other cars listed above 130A is only option listed.

[ 2014-04-29, 09:02 AM: Message edited by: triple b ]
 

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Posted by SacGrown89GT (Member # 7435) on :
 
Yeah idk why i was so damn confused. Thanks for breakin it down guys i had it right. I think my battery has a weak cell or something. Appreciate it ill get battery looked at today if not swapped i have warranty
 

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Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on :
 
Here we go your alternator should be wired as such. This is how i do it to simplify the issue. Connect the left wire to the heavy lug along with the battery heavy feed. The center position goes to the small lug. Then the far right wire goes to key battery or the alt light lead. This is as simple as i can make it for you. Good luck

I do it this way so only one wire is needed from the original wiring harness. As i do wire tucks it makes it much easier to consolidate the wiring and eliminate bulk ugly wire bundles. Just saying!




[ 2014-04-30, 02:53 AM: Message edited by: Tom Renzo ]
 

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Posted by SacGrown89GT (Member # 7435) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by Tom Renzo:
Here we go your alternator should be wired as such. This is how i do it to simplify the issue. Connect the left wire to the heavy lug along with the battery heavy feed. The center position goes to the small lug. Then the far right wire goes to key battery or the alt light lead. This is as simple as i can make it for you. Good luck

I do it this way so only one wire is needed from the original wiring harness. As i do wire tucks it makes it much easier to consolidate the wiring and eliminate bulk ugly wire bundles. Just saying!

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This is what i needed!!! Thank u
 

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Posted by SacGrown89GT (Member # 7435) on :
 
Everythings good now. Thanks cafords!!!
 

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