This is topic Check charging system help! in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners .
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Posted by Chava211 (Member # 11918) on
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Hey guys so im having an issue with charging system. I have a 06 mustang gt & I replaced the alternator a couple months ago. I got a bama tune nd then about 3 weeks later the check charging system popped up. I didnt drive the car for bout week and a half and when i tried to start it up it was completely dead. I replaced the battery now nd the check charging system with the battery keeps poppin up. Does anyone have an idea of what it can be? The car has already died on me while driving once i dnt want to take it out again until i know what i can do
Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on
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Charge the battery fully then start the car. Connect a digital Voltmeter across the battery. Start the car and increase the RPM to app 1300 RPM. If your meter reads 13.8- 14.8 your alt is OK. If not and it reads app 12 Volts your alternator and or regulation circuit is NG. Do this and post back. I will check ALL DATA to see if the ECM controls the voltage in your car.
OK just checked out the PRINTS. Looks like your car has an internal regulator in the ALT. So if you are not charging either your ALT is shot or the field fuse is blown. Check all fuses and have the alt tested at the auto store. Some of the off engine alternator testers are marginal at best for testing but it is better than nothing. If that does not work FULL FIELDING is an option if your alt allows it. I am not 100% on Full fielding unless i see the ALT. Most ford alternators allow this. Good luck!!
[ 2013-09-12, 08:06 PM: Message edited by: Tom Renzo ]
Posted by Chava211 (Member # 11918) on
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sweet thanks il try it out and post back
Posted by Chava211 (Member # 11918) on
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hey so i found out i have a parasitic draw but i checked all the fuses both under the hood and inside the car and nothing lowered the power. i even unplugged all my HID lights and the power going to my subs and amp and still nothing changed. any other ideas ? thnx
Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on
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How did you check IT!!! Here is how i do it! Remove the negative battery terminal and install an old fashion test light in series with the battery and the cable. You know the BULB TYPE ONES not the circuit safe ones.Or you can use an old tail light socket and bulb that works very good also. If the test light lights up with the doors closed and all the electrical loads off. (key off and out of the ignition) The test light should just glow a bit. If it is bright you have a draw down. Remember only concentrate on the accessory's or components that have constant battery. Forget the circuits that are KEY BATTERY as those circuits are off any way!!! Then start disconnecting or removing fuses. Many times the test light will blink because of clock circuits and lets not forget the ECM which always draws a few Milli AMPS. Most times i find draw downs on fords to be the alternator. They have a nasty habit of doing that. And make sure you disconnect all the wires on the alt not just the heavy charge lead. GOOD LUCK!!!
[ 2013-10-01, 02:18 AM: Message edited by: Tom Renzo ]
Posted by Duncan Motors (Member # 7045) on
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u are the only other guy beside myself and who showed me do this, great help!
Posted by Chava211 (Member # 11918) on
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I used a digital voltmeter. I turned off everything closed the doors took off the negative cable and then tested it. The lowest i got was .13. I pulled out every fuse out from both under the hood and inside TWICE, and still no change. Should i still try and use the light test? I dnt have the light tester i would have to use the tail light bulb.
Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on
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Digital meter is OUT!!! That will not tell you anything. You need an old fashioned test light or an old tail light socget with pigtails ans like an 1156 lamp!! Good luck!@!
Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on
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quote:
Originally posted by Tom Renzo:
Digital meter is OUT!!! That will not tell you anything. You need an old fashioned test light or an old tail light socket with pigtails and like an 1156 lamp in series with the negative pattery post and the disconnected cable!! Good luck!@!
Posted by 4IDFOX (Member # 9921) on
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Probably the alternator
Posted by Chava211 (Member # 11918) on
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quote:
Originally posted by Tom Renzo:
Digital meter is OUT!!! That will not tell you anything. You need an old fashioned test light or an old tail light socget with pigtails ans like an 1156 lamp!! Good luck!@!
Ok il pick up a test light nd il try it out that way. Hopefully better results. I appreciate it
Posted by Chava211 (Member # 11918) on
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quote:
Originally posted by 4IDFOX:
Probably the alternator
Alternator is good already tested it nd it it charges the battery when car is on
Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on
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NO NO NO NO it can charge like gang busters and still present a parasitic draw. That kind of thinking will definitely cause you to chase BALLOONS when trouble shooting. Trust me i have seen many an alternator charge perfectly and cause this issue. Check it to be sure. Never trust anything unless you have tested it. Good luck!!
Posted by 4IDFOX (Member # 9921) on
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The alternator could have a short in it that will drain the battery when it is not running.
Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on
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quote:
Originally posted by 4IDFOX:
The alternator could have a short in it that will drain the battery when it is not running.
Absolutely true and i find this a lot on FORDS. Not saying that is your issue but it has to be checked.
Posted by Duncan Motors (Member # 7045) on
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test light !!!!!
Posted by Chava211 (Member # 11918) on
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Alright so i bought a test light nd it turned on bright. i pulled all the fuses under the hood, And no change. I havent had a chance to get to the inside fuses yet, but exactly how would i chrck to see if the alternator has a short and is drawing the power. I had already unplugged the main power line from the battery to the alternator
nd didnt make a change, but u were saying to unplug all the wires from the alternator?
[ 2013-10-03, 10:14 PM: Message edited by: Chava211 ]
Posted by Duncan Motors (Member # 7045) on
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are your doors shut? ignition off? u have to have everything like it is off, if your doors are open it will have the light on and u wont be able to tell the difference, do u have the car like it was to be parked over night?
Posted by Chava211 (Member # 11918) on
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quote:
Originally posted by Duncan Motors:
are your doors shut? ignition off? u have to have everything like it is off, if your doors are open it will have the light on and u wont be able to tell the difference, do u have the car like it was to be parked over night?
Yea doors closed lights off keys out. I had even tried with with disconnecting the power line into my amp for my subs. Even looked in the trunk thru the back seat to make sure the trunk light was out. Its just sitting in the garage as if i wasnt gona use it. I checked all the fuses inside nd out nd none made it drop. I use the test light on the battery itself and it WAS way brighter then when i was just checking the draw. I wanted to believe that there wasnt a draw afterward but that voltmeter still keeps reading 130 mA so i think the test light is still too bright.
Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on
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You will draw down as the ECM and alt does draw a tiny bit of current. But 130 MA is a bit high. Some cars do draw down like 100MA but if the test light is bright you are going to drain the battery. It takes a little experience to know what a normal draw down is. Can you get the test light to completely shut off. REMEMBER you need to jump out the test light before using it to indicate a draw. Reason being some cars have a dome light time out circuit. If the time out circuit is not satisfied it will falsely indicate a stand alone draw down. Normally what i do is use a jumper across the trest light to time out the delay circuit in the dome light then look and see if you have a dim light draw down or a brighht light one. This will indicate if you are drawing down. Is your battery GOOD. Can you disconnect it over night and connect it in the morning and the car starts. You just might have a bad battery have it tested. Good luck
Posted by LockNLoad (Member # 12949) on
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Do you have a Shaker audio system? If so there have been instances of the amp drawing power, the "fix" is to turn the radio off when you turn the car off.
Hope this helps
Posted by Chava211 (Member # 11918) on
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Ok guys so i finally just took it in and apparently it WAS a bad alternator. I replaced the alternator and hopefully that will be the end of this issue(fingers crossed) ! I appreciate all your help!
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