This is topic Suspension Suggestions? in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by Bulkster90 (Member # 11621) on :
 
Got a 89LX. Looking to start upgrading the suspension. The only upgrade to the suspension would Eibach Sportline lowering springs. Otherwise it is completely stock. It is my daily driver. Im probably gonna get parts here and there so just tryin to get some suggestions on where to start. Not good with all the acronyms, some links would be great. Thanks.

here are some pics of the car.
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dont mind the paint job, just bad lighting [Roll Eyes] lol (thats up next after suspension)

[ April 30, 2012, 02:16 AM: Message edited by: Bulkster90 ]
 
Posted by sneakyfox90 (Member # 9379) on :
 
get good shocks if you already got sportlines
KONI
BILSTIEN
TOKIKO ..ect

subframeconnectors should be #1 suspension mod perferably full length

id throw a panhard bar in it after that jus because how much more stable it makes the car while cornering hard (a must have in a fox that handles)

then caster camber plates for optimum/more agressive alignment

then id do ALL urathane bushings up front and a stut brace

MAXIMUMMOTORSPORTS.COM < lots of good TECH information and just about everything you need for suspension

[ April 30, 2012, 02:33 AM: Message edited by: sneakyfox90 ]
 
Posted by NEIGHT (Member # 8741) on :
 
1. Full-length subframe connectors
2. Upper N lower control arms in the rear
3. Shocks
4. Caster camber plates
5. Strut tower brace
6. Tubular K-member setup
 
Posted by Bulkster90 (Member # 11621) on :
 
Adjustable or just regular lower control arms?

whats the difference.
 
Posted by 93nIFtYgT (Member # 7804) on :
 
Same question on what's the difference between adjustable & not?? How about torque box braces? & with the K- member? Is that something that takes a little more mechanically inclined skills? Or should I be left up to pros? I've read things about people can't get it aligned correctly. I wanna start my suspension soon also
 
Posted by Greasy (Member # 5258) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by 93nIFtYgT:
Same question on what's the difference between adjustable & not?? How about torque box braces? & with the K- member? Is that something that takes a little more mechanically inclined skills? Or should I be left up to pros? I've read things about people can't get it aligned correctly. I wanna start my suspension soon also
These are adjustable lower control arms, you can actually adjust the spring perch up or down to raise or lower the vehicle.
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Here are some Battle Boxes that I installed over the weekend, I did all four but only have a pic of the lowers.
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It was an easy install, I don't know how mechanically inclined you are but all you need are some basic hand tools.
 
Posted by 79 cobra (Member # 10137) on :
 
Baseline suspension Is good too [worship]
 
Posted by FivePTSlow (Member # 7682) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Bulkster90:
Got a 89LX. Looking to start upgrading the suspension. The only upgrade to the suspension would Eibach Sportline lowering springs. Otherwise it is completely stock. It is my daily driver. Im probably gonna get parts here and there so just tryin to get some suggestions on where to start. Not good with all the acronyms, some links would be great. Thanks.

here are some pics of the car.
-
-

dont mind the paint job, just bad lighting [Roll Eyes] lol (thats up next after suspension)
This all really depends on how much you want to spend.

-Sub Frame Connectors top the list for sure. They're relatively inexpensive and make the car feel much more solid with a lot less flex. I used BBK SFC's with seat support brackets. Make sure to have them welded in. Bolting them in helps, but is nowhere near as firm as when they're welded in.

-Polyurethane Bushings & Mounts are another really good bang for the buck. You can order anything made from Energy Suspension through Autozone's special order. I outfitted my entire Mustang with poly bushings & mounts and what a difference! Much less body roll, more predictable cornering/braking etc I have poly sway bar bushings, end link kits, transmission crossmember bushings, transmission mount, motor mounts etc

-Coil Overs I have only done coil overs on the front(I used a retrofit sleeve kit from qa1 on top of lakewood 90/10 struts), but man huge difference. My car rides much smoother now. I'm not sure what it's called, but the "delay" so to speak of when you run over a bump or pothole in the road is no longer there. I suppose it allows your suspension to work faster and absorb more rather than transfer that to the body

-Tubular K Member & Tubular A Arms I have these installed on my car. I used D&D Motorsports Tubular K Member and Granatelli Tubular A Arms(front control arms) Between the K Member, A Arms, and Coil Overs I saved about 70lbs over stock parts and have much more room to work on everything under the car. Once the all of this stuff was installed the car felt a lot more balanced from front to back and a heck of a lot more rigid. Between all of the stuff I've listed above I now have nearly zero body roll, so if I go around a corner fast it will start sliding with no roll at all, but with the smallest correction I can be going straight as an arrow easily.

-Control Arms I used UPR Chromoly Adjustable length control arms. They have a poly bushing in the back and a spherical bushing up front. I have no wheel hop and with all other mods if I mash the throttle all I get is wheelspin and I go completely straight with very minimal side to side movement, so it feels a lot more safe and predictable. No more fishtailing and nearly hitting the guy next to you.

-Caster/Camber Plates these are necessary to run proper alignment and have a lot more alignment freedom. I used the Maximum Motorsports with my coilover setup because it was one of the few manufacturers that said you can. Most others say they're too weak and will fail sending your strut through your hood.

These are just my experiences. All other cars I've mostly stuck with drag springs and drag shocks/struts with no swaybars etc. That setup is very sloppy and even if it helps go down the 1/4 mile faster it's not worth driving around like that on the road for me any longer.
 
Posted by 93nIFtYgT (Member # 7804) on :
 
Nice.. What would you give each task a rating of from 1 - 10 on difficulty to perform. I would say I'm about a 6 or 7 when it comes to mechanical work.. The main thing I am concerned about is the K-member? Do you need an engine lift? & what else is involved?
 
Posted by FivePTSlow (Member # 7682) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by 93nIFtYgT:
Nice.. What would you give each task a rating of from 1 - 10 on difficulty to perform. I would say I'm about a 6 or 7 when it comes to mechanical work.. The main thing I am concerned about is the K-member? Do you need an engine lift? & what else is involved?
Most of everything is pretty easy. Sub Frame connectors I took to my buddy's shop to have them welded in I didn't bother bolting them in at all, so unless you know how to weld you will have to take them to a shop. I don't know how to weld very well, so the difficulty for me would be high on these. If you know how to weld and have a lift then the difficulty would be very low. All that really needs to be done is to prep for welding, check fitment, mock up, tack weld, weld, then paint over the welds, so that they dont rust.

Shocks/Struts/Coilovers, Caster/Camber plates are all very easy. Control arms are super easy, polyurethane bushings super easy. I would put all of these at a 5 or less as far as difficulty.

K Member: I would guess that this really depends on which K member you purchased. I went to my buddies shop and used a lift, air tools etc for my install and it took several hours even with all the right tools. It wasn't a difficult install, but it took a lot of time. I'm sure I could have installed this in my garage, but I really wouldn't want to. Getting mt K Member to line up was hard enough on a lift with 2 people and plenty of room to work in all directions. As far as difficulty I would probably put this right around a 7
 
Posted by Duncan Motors (Member # 7045) on :
 
sub frames, torque boxes, iron 50 does a great job and is very inexpensive for a very top notch job.then as for suspension goes, its really the skys the limit depending on your budget
 
Posted by fredfifty (Member # 10320) on :
 
in order to get the sub frames, might need to take your car to a body shop and see if the frame is straight first...
 
Posted by fast305s (Member # 11897) on :
 
nothing puts power down better to the floor or around the corners than a good set of tires my friend.
 
Posted by fredfifty (Member # 10320) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by fast305s:
nothing puts power down better to the floor or around the corners than a good set of tires my friend.
for some reason i feel like a dos equis right now lol
 
Posted by fast305s (Member # 11897) on :
 
haha, stay gripped up my friends
 
Posted by Bulkster90 (Member # 11621) on :
 
Thanks for the info guys
 




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