This is topic 5 LUG CONVERSION PROBLEM !!!!! in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners .
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Posted by 91redmustang (Member # 10019) on
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Just finished the 5 lug conversion on my 91 and I tried pushing the car foward(has no radiatior) by myself and car wouldnt budge. Had the get the neighbor to help and we were just able to move it forward a little bit.
Fired up the car and let off the clutch, car will not move and the rear break lights are on. Is there an adjustment when installing a SN95 booster?
Posted by 91redmustang (Member # 10019) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by 91redmustang:
Just finished the 5 lug conversion on my 91 and I tried pushing the car foward(has no radiatior) by myself and car wouldnt budge. Had the get the neighbor to help and we were just able to move it forward a little bit.
Fired up the car and let off the clutch, car still will not move and the rear break lights are on. Is there an adjustment needed to the brake pedal when installing a SN95 booster?
Posted by dvuspny (Member # 10949) on
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Did you do the full disc conversion? If so.... Disconnect the rearcbrake cake and see if the car moves. May be the cable routing you chose. Causing too much binding inside the park brake cable housing. This keeps the brake engaged. Found this issue on a couple diy customer projects. Gl
* Northracecar rear caliper brackets needed also*
[ October 30, 2011, 09:15 AM: Message edited by: dvuspny ]
Posted by 68stanger (Member # 7842) on
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the stock drum proportioning valve is setup for drum brakes, which means that it will always retain a little bit of pressure to the rear.
gut your stock proportioning valve and run a inline adjuster
Posted by blown95svt (Member # 8893) on
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What axles are you using? Check your rotor to make sure your not hitting the caliper bridge.
Posted by 91redmustang (Member # 10019) on
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Maybe I should add more info.. have a wilwood adjustable PV and the MM 3-2 Port conversion and FMS plug. 13 rotors/cobra calipers w/ss lines and 11.65 cobra rotors/sn95 calipers w/stock lines and ranger axles.
Have the thinner pads, correct E brake cables with the welded handle. I was able to move the car prior to bleeding the brakes. What would cause the rear brake lines to be on though?
[ October 29, 2011, 08:36 AM: Message edited by: 91redmustang ]
Posted by dvuspny (Member # 10949) on
:
Did you do the full disc conversion? If so.... Disconnect the rearcbrake cake and see if the car moves. May be the cable routing you chose. Causing too much binding inside the park brake cable housing. This keeps the brake engaged. Found this issue on a couple diy customer projects. Gl
*even with ranger axles you will need the Northracecar brackets for proper caliper positioning.*
[ October 30, 2011, 09:09 AM: Message edited by: dvuspny ]
Posted by 91redmustang (Member # 10019) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by dvuspny:
Did you do the full disc conversion? If so.... Disconnect the rearcbrake cake and see if the car moves. May be the cable routing you chose. Causing too much binding inside the park brake cable housing. This keeps the brake engaged. Found this issue on a couple diy customer projects. Gl
Ill give thhis a try....
Posted by blown95svt (Member # 8893) on
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I think your gonna need to run the sn95 axles, if Im not mistaken. Im pretty sure they are a tad bit longer that the fox/ranger shafts. Im gonna bet your rotor is hitting the inside of your caliper bride. By bolting your wheels down it will push that rotor against the caliper
Posted by sydewayzLX50 (Member # 10217) on
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check to see if one of your calipers are sticking. common problem
Posted by Adam5.0 (Member # 6995) on
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did you adjust the booster rod correctly? having it too far out means the master cylinder will be engaged
Posted by 91redmustang (Member # 10019) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by blown95svt:
I think your gonna need to run the sn95 axles, if Im not mistaken. Im pretty sure they are a tad bit longer that the fox/ranger shafts. Im gonna bet your rotor is hitting the inside of your caliper bride. By bolting your wheels down it will push that rotor against the caliper
Need to run ranger axles.. have 18x10 w/305 DR tires otherwise the wheels will stick out.
quote:
Originally posted by sydewayzLX50:
check to see if one of your calipers are sticking. common problem
just waiting on my brother to bring over his jack so I can start messing with the car.
quote:
Originally posted by Adam5.0:
did you adjust the booster rod correctly? having it too far out means the master cylinder will be engaged
think this might be my problem.
[ October 29, 2011, 10:01 AM: Message edited by: 91redmustang ]
Posted by BrokenDownNotch (Member # 6371) on
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[ October 29, 2011, 12:22 PM: Message edited by: BrokenDownNotch ]
Posted by BrokenDownNotch (Member # 6371) on
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im gonna bet your rotor is hitting the inside of your caliper bride. By bolting your wheels down it will push that rotor against the caliper [/qb][/QUOTE]Need to run ranger axles.. have 18x10 w/305 DR tires otherwise the wheels will stick out.
thats a neg. i have 96 axles. u use the 05 and up offset. i have a 96 rear wit a 18x10 295 rear tire and its flush with the fender well... as far as the brakes go my guess would be the caliper on the rotor as well when the wheels got bolted down... gl
quote:
Originally posted by sydewayzLX50:
check to see if one of your calipers are sticking. common problem
just waiting on my brother to bring over his jack so I can start messing with the car.
quote:
Originally posted by Adam5.0:
did you adjust the booster rod correctly? having it too far out means the master cylinder will be engaged
think this might be my problem. [/QB][/QUOTE]
Posted by Blind (Member # 3052) on
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what rear axle brackets are you using? I run northracecars.com brackets for cobra 11.65" discs with fox-length 5 lug axles and it works perfectly.
Posted by JZTRK (Member # 7641) on
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jack up a corner at a time and try to turn that wheel
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