This is topic Need advice on Suspension. in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners .
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Posted by blkfoxbody89 (Member # 8361) on
:
Lets start off with this, I Like Hitting The twistys! And I'm already riding on semi built suspension.. But I want to get all the grip and predictability I can out of my fox so I can do some road racing..
this is what I'm working with right now:
-upper/lower control arms
-front and rear eibach* sway bars
-chromoly tube k member
-chromoly tube a arms
-front coilovers 175lb..
-disc 5 lug all around (stock sn95 front, rear 98 cobra)
-wilwood proportioning valve
-front/rear mm steel braided lines
-(need to install) pan hard rod..
-(need to install, I know I'm an idiot for not doing this first!) tube weld on sub frame connectors
-3.73's
-alum drive line
-13.5 lb fidanza alum flywheel
-stock clutch ![[Frown]](frown.gif)
-crap just caster plates, spherical
-gr2's all around.. Not sure if I should have with fr c/o..?
-stock motor and trans mounts..
-need to replace rear uca bushings.. (Go stock or harder?)
-also have an adjustable rod that mounts on top of ds swaybar hardware, to ds cyl head, behind accessory bracket. (supposed to give a solid mm feel, and takes about 30 seconds to mount/remove w/pins for dd-abillity)
-front mich pilots 225/50r17
-rear kuhmo ecsta's v710 275 40r17
know I need torque arm.. beefed up torque boxes.. beefier front springs.. Ds safety loop.. Sfi approved bellhousing.. Stb.. Cage.. 5 point Safety harness.. Probably need through body sf's, but I'm not rich, nor have tools to do cutting/welding yet..
Should I go coilovers in rear?
Please Let me know what I've got wrong or need to change/ add to my setup..
Thanks,
Mike N
Posted by 70mach351 (Member # 7528) on
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I have maximum motoersports extreme lca's for rear coil overs
Posted by SteveL (Member # 1241) on
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The suspension already has more modifications than what's allowed in the Camaro-Mustang Challenge (CMC) series.
The only thing that stands out from your list is the tires. You have too much tire in the back and not enough in the front. Get the same size, brand and type of tire on all four corners even if it means going with something slightly smaller for the back.
After that work on the slowest part of the setup: you. Get some seat time.
Posted by Blind (Member # 3052) on
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what kind of upper/lower control arms are on it? When you replace the upper control arm bushings use only the ford rubber ones, anything stiffer than the stock upper control arms and stock bushings will just make the car drive worse.
Posted by blkfoxbody89 (Member # 8361) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by 70mach351:
I have maximum motoersports extreme lca's for rear coil overs
Pm me w/ price because I may be interested..
quote:
Originally posted by SteveL:
The suspension already has more modifications than what's allowed in the Camaro-Mustang Challenge (CMC) series.
The only thing that stands out from your list is the tires. You have too much tire in the back and not enough in the front. Get the same size, brand and type of tire on all four corners even if it means going with something slightly smaller for the back.
After that work on the slowest part of the setup: you. Get some seat time.
I had this as a strait liner car until this change in direction, luckily I do have some 245/35zr17's mounted on matching back up rims already, so i'll change the fronts to match rears. And I'll check out that site to see my limits. but since we're here.. What am I overboard on suspension wise?
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
what kind of upper/lower control arms are on it? When you replace the upper control arm bushings use only the ford rubber ones, anything stiffer than the stock upper control arms and stock bushings will just make the car drive worse.
Right now I'm running non adj tube lowers, and non adj boxed uppers.. I think their called performance products or something.. I'll have to check. And thanks for the verification to get ford replacements. I'm thinking they will be easier to install also?
Posted by Blind (Member # 3052) on
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throw some stock 94-04 uca's in when you change the bushings and get some movement back into the rear end, especially for when you install that phb.
Posted by SF Coupe (Member # 1810) on
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What brand of k member and a arms are you running?
The stock clutch is fine.
I've been around tracks for a little while now and I've never heard of a device that attaches the sway bar to the cylinder head. Who makes it? Sounds like a good way to ruin motor mounts.
Front CO spring rates for a street/track should be around 325Lb/in, on a race car 425lb/in is a starting point.
[ April 08, 2011, 03:12 PM: Message edited by: SF Coupe ]
Posted by Blind (Member # 3052) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by SF Coupe:
What brand of k member and a arms are you running?
The stock clutch is fine.
I've been around tracks for a little while now and I've never heard of a device that attaches the sway bar to the cylinder head. Who makes it? Sounds like a good way to ruin motor mounts.
Front CO spring rates for a street/track should be around 325Lb/in, on a race car 425lb/in is a starting point.
it's a torque strap, not used on cars that turn, but supposed to help straight line cars...I'd never run one
Posted by SF Coupe (Member # 1810) on
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Silly drag racers.
Posted by SteveL (Member # 1241) on
:
quote:
What am I overboard on suspension wise?
Nothing. It's fine.
It's a mistaken belief that you need to modify the hell out of a car before it can be run on a road course. Fix any leaks, have some reasonably fresh fluids in it, get a helmet and run the car.
Posted by blkfoxbody89 (Member # 8361) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
throw some stock 94-04 uca's in when you change the bushings and get some movement back into the rear end, especially for when you install that phb.
so the movement you speak of.. is the reason you prefer 94-04 because of the way it travels up/down/side/side? Are mine toooo restrictive?
quote:
Originally posted by SF Coupe:
What brand of k member and a arms are you running?
The stock clutch is fine.
I've been around tracks for a little while now and I've never heard of a device that attaches the sway bar to the cylinder head. Who makes it? Sounds like a good way to ruin motor mounts.
Front CO spring rates for a street/track should be around 325Lb/in, on a race car 425lb/in is a starting point.
I went with the UPR k, a-arms, coilover setup because it was cheap/light/and I couldn't fund any actual proven failures, just alot of people saying ill break welds.. but that has yet to happen to me, and I can't find any documented fails.. But who knows..
I'll def upgrade to atleast 325 lbs now though.
This is the connector.. I kept going through motor mounts so I tried something new..
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=10307&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1206126327
Posted by 4IDFOX (Member # 9921) on
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The GR2's are a week link. Go with Tokico's at a minimum and Bilstein's or Koni's if you can.
Change the K when you can to one that is designed to handle instead of staight line.
stock rear upper arm's will help not bind as much as one's with stiff bushings. Once you get the phb on you can make a pm3l out of it by removing the bushing in one uca.
Posted by Blind (Member # 3052) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by 4IDFOX:
The GR2's are a week link. Go with Tokico's at a minimum and Bilstein's or Koni's if you can.
Change the K when you can to one that is designed to handle instead of staight line.
stock rear upper arm's will help not bind as much as one's with stiff bushings. Once you get the phb on you can make a pm3l out of it by removing the bushing in one uca.
if you go with a PM3L you want the remaining upper control arm to be at a minimum a boxed stock upper with poly bushings, and have torque box reinforcing plates and the upper box welded to add strength.
Most people recommend running spherical bushings and an adjustable tubular upper control arm when going with a PM3L.
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