This is topic 331 build in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by blown95svt (Member # 8893) on :
 
ok so i am building a 331 for my 95 cobra, stock block, scat cast crank,scat i beam rods,mahle pistons, the compression with my heads is 8.7-1 now how much boost will i need to achieve 500rwp. my h/c/i are gt40x heads, new ferra 1.94in 1.55ex,comp 914 springs,10* locks/retainers, they are ported to felpro 1262in and felpro 1415ex.push rod tubes sleeved in intake ports. my cam is a comp 284h-r14 .533in .544ex 220/230 114. intake is a holley systemax with a truck lower that has been ported and welded.have 1 5/8 longtubes and 2 1/2 exhuast all the wat back and the blower is a v2 s-trim. also do i need to run a aftermarket oil pan?
 
Posted by 1SLOWLX (Member # 558) on :
 
My guess would be around 15psi for 500rwhp
 
Posted by JohnB (Member # 969) on :
 
Yup, 15 psi is a good start. Don't need a aftermarket oil pan..but do need at least 42lb injectors, 255 intank pump and 255 inline pump, 70+mm TB, 75+mm MAF, and a powerpipe of some sort. Your pulley combo should be a 3.33 upper and a 8" lower, 8 rib.
Make sure the balance job on the rotating assembly is spot-on, otherwise you'll find out the hard way.
 
Posted by turbo50 (Member # 6700) on :
 
I think you would be happier with the f cam.

[ July 17, 2009, 02:44 PM: Message edited by: turbo50 ]
 
Posted by onesicklx (Member # 285) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by blown95svt:
ok so i am building a 331 for my 95 cobra, stock block, scat cast crank,scat i beam rods,mahle pistons, the compression with my heads is 8.7-1 now how much boost will i need to achieve 500rwp. my h/c/i are gt40x heads, new ferra 1.94in 1.55ex,comp 914 springs,10* locks/retainers, they are ported to felpro 1262in and felpro 1415ex.push rod tubes sleeved in intake ports. my cam is a comp 284h-r14 .533in .544ex 220/230 114. intake is a holley systemax with a truck lower that has been ported and welded.have 1 5/8 longtubes and 2 1/2 exhuast all the wat back and the blower is a v2 s-trim. also do i need to run a aftermarket oil pan?
only thing your missing is a better block, but if a better block is not a option, then i would just do a 302 with the rest of the parts you mention in you post...a 302 with good heads/intake and good blower is capable of doing 500rwhp...
 
Posted by blown95svt (Member # 8893) on :
 
The car currently has 42's, 92mm pro m, 255 intake and 255 external. The rotating assembly is going to the shop on Thursday, motor machine in sac is doing it.
 
Posted by blown95svt (Member # 8893) on :
 
Also would like to know if a Canton fox specific oil pan would work on my sn95?
 
Posted by 707vibrantcobra93 (Member # 4702) on :
 
i dont agree with the aftermarket block comment, repectfully. your stock block main studs and a spot on balance, perfect main and rod bearing gap, perfect crankshaft endplay and you will be able to get some serious power out of this thing, but be very precise with these critical measurements, ask johnb what his crank hp is and what block he uses you may be surprised. I would def. use a head stud also and with 15 pounds you will be happy
 
Posted by 707vibrantcobra93 (Member # 4702) on :
 
i could be very off on this but i believe your sn95's enginge sits further forward/backward? in the engine bay so a fox pan may have kmember/clearence issues. don't take that for gold because i am not 100% on that. good luck with your build
 
Posted by blown95svt (Member # 8893) on :
 
My motor already has head and main studs. Does anyone one have the specs and tolerences that I should run with my setup?
 
Posted by jordan_0806 (Member # 5888) on :
 
a Fox oil pan will fit on a 95
 
Posted by 707vibrantcobra93 (Member # 4702) on :
 
U are prob gonna want to have your block align honed equal decked and torque plate honed and a polish on the crank. The machine shop can size your bearings rod and main and also size your thrust bearing you are gonna want 5 thou end play it will be up to u to get the specks from them on bearing gap should be about 26 thou mic these measurements not plastiguage. This is for optimum oiling at the bearings. U will have to set the crank in with just the thrust bearing cap torqued down no other caps on and all block side main bearings in and beat it back and forth to seat the thrust cap to the block. Then torque all caps and check with a dial indicator.

[ July 17, 2009, 08:48 PM: Message edited by: 707vibrantcobra93 ]
 
Posted by 707vibrantcobra93 (Member # 4702) on :
 
Don't forget about havi g the right ring gap for boosted application either
 
Posted by turbo50 (Member # 6700) on :
 
Dont waste your money spending upwards of 1000 dollars in machine work on a stock block with studding it and all just to see it come apart.....especially if you fill it with higher dollar goodies.

Some may be getting by with the stock block motor making decent power but I can guarantee you that a. it is just a matter of time or b. they have not been down the track with it many times.

Get an aftermarket block.

I was driving hand grenades years ago and it is just not worth the worry.
 
Posted by turbo50 (Member # 6700) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by blown95svt:
My motor already has head and main studs. Does anyone one have the specs and tolerences that I should run with my setup?
Whoever puts this together will be able to dictate this or go elsewhere.

Remember there are those that talk about putting motors together and there are those that actually do it.

HUGE difference.

I have seen and owned stock blocks that made 630RWHP and lived to tell about it and I have seen stock blocks make 408RWHP and explode.

The difference? The 630RWHP block made it once and hit the track once. The 408RWHP motor made it 400+times and made it to the track 350+times.

Sorry bro, your setup sounds pretty good and I love the fact that you will be going fast with smallish valve sizing.

There are SOOO many deals, especially on corral right now, that you just cant pass them up for the money you are gonna drop.

Was the stock block align bored or honed with the main studs in? The saddles need to be checked with the main studs you are going to be using in.

Also plasti gauge will give you a good idea on some clearance if you go around the crank on it, however, I would suggest for this use bore mic and outside mics if you have them and know how to use them.
 
Posted by blown95svt (Member # 8893) on :
 
I bought the motor from blown67, the guy had it infor 4k and for some reason had scored 1 piston up. I couldn't get the same piston so I ordered mahle pistons and am having it rebalanced. My buddy is helping me put the shortblock together, he has built a couple of motors that run strong. I just want my car done! Tired of driving the 86 Benz around!
 
Posted by turbo50 (Member # 6700) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by blown95svt:
I bought the motor from blown67, the guy had it infor 4k and for some reason had scored 1 piston up. I couldn't get the same piston so I ordered mahle pistons and am having it rebalanced. My buddy is helping me put the shortblock together, he has built a couple of motors that run strong. I just want my car done! Tired of driving the 86 Benz around!
I hear ya.

Have fun with it!

Good luck.
 
Posted by onesicklx (Member # 285) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by 707vibrantcobra93:
i dont agree with the aftermarket block comment, repectfully. your stock block main studs and a spot on balance, perfect main and rod bearing gap, perfect crankshaft endplay and you will be able to get some serious power out of this thing, but be very precise with these critical measurements, ask johnb what his crank hp is and what block he uses you may be surprised. I would def. use a head stud also and with 15 pounds you will be happy
what do you consider serious power?
 
Posted by onesicklx (Member # 285) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by turbo50:
Dont waste your money spending upwards of 1000 dollars in machine work on a stock block with studding it and all just to see it come apart.....especially if you fill it with higher dollar goodies.

Some may be getting by with the stock block motor making decent power but I can guarantee you that a. it is just a matter of time or b. they have not been down the track with it many times.

Get an aftermarket block.

I was driving hand grenades years ago and it is just not worth the worry.
[worship]
 
Posted by smokealot (Member # 3108) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by blown95svt:
ok so i am building a 331 for my 95 cobra, stock block, scat cast crank,scat i beam rods,mahle pistons, the compression with my heads is 8.7-1 now how much boost will i need to achieve 500rwp. my h/c/i are gt40x heads, new ferra 1.94in 1.55ex,comp 914 springs,10* locks/retainers, they are ported to felpro 1262in and felpro 1415ex.push rod tubes sleeved in intake ports. my cam is a comp 284h-r14 .533in .544ex 220/230 114. intake is a holley systemax with a truck lower that has been ported and welded.have 1 5/8 longtubes and 2 1/2 exhuast all the wat back and the blower is a v2 s-trim. also do i need to run a aftermarket oil pan?
i know u know this but if you don't get some high octaine
when you dyno. [burnout] [burnout]
 




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