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Posted by wicked02gt (Member # 6652) on :
 
hello everybody ive been having a problems the las 2 days when i start my car it will fire up normally but then right after it dies the rpms jump up and down then it turns off. after maybe about 5 min of turning it on it will be ok. today in the morning it fired up perfect but when i drove to the store and i only spent like 10 min in the store it did the same thing it fired up but the bogged and turned off then it took me like 5 min of turning it on again and i was able to make it home any ideas of what it could be?????? i have a 2002 gt with 116,XXX miles on it.
 
Posted by 9svtcobra8 (Member # 8408) on :
 
Is it pulling a check engine light?
 
Posted by wicked02gt (Member # 6652) on :
 
no, no check engine light thats the first thing i checked for but it never turned on.
 
Posted by 9svtcobra8 (Member # 8408) on :
 
Wow thats weird usually with obd2 cars everything sets off a code..... What kind of mods do you have done?
 
Posted by wicked02gt (Member # 6652) on :
 
yea thats what i thought too it usually throws a code right away.well the only mods i have are asp pullies,k&n intake, mac pro-chamber ive had those on for like 2yrs now. i checked the vacume lines that hook up to the intake and plenum but were all good.
 
Posted by jp (Member # 8045) on :
 
Can you hold the gas pedal down and get it to keep running while cold? If so I would say IAC but if not I would check fuel presure. Most times when a car doesnt want to start in th a.m it is a loss of fuel presure. Have a friend start the car and smack th IAC with a screw driver and see if the idle jumps up and stays there and LUK.
 
Posted by wicked02gt (Member # 6652) on :
 
no as soon as i fire it up it starts to idle rough and turns off the when i go to do it again i accelerate but it just turns off. what does the iac look like?
 
Posted by bwkelley76 (Member # 8792) on :
 
It could be many things but if you take it one step at a time you can find this.

You obviously have a problem but you need to find out why you don't have a check engine light FIRST.

Forget about the problem for a minute and focus on the system and how it works. If you find out why the light isn't on it may actually help you narrow your problem down.

There are only a few things that wont turn on a light assuming your light is working properly.

Type "B" failures will trigger the light after the second time in a row that it fails. That means your system has to act up twice in a row or you'll never see a light. However the first time it acts up it will set a pending code in the computer. So hook up a scanner and look for pending codes and go from there.

Here's a list to help...

No light and sometimes no code usually means one or more of the following

-a problem that happens in the first 30 seconds of cold start-up

-a problem caused by a bad ignition switch circuit

-"type B" problem that has not happened 2 times in a row

-a malfunctioning or non-functioning Check Engine lamp.

-If the car's computer thinks the problem was caused by a normal situation or driver's command like shutting off the ignition or letting off the throttle ...(HAPPENS OFTEN!)


Turn your key from the off to the on position and make sure the check engine light illuminates momentarily. If not then hook up a scantool and retrieve your codes, fix your problem, and fix your light. If it works then check for codes anyway, you may have a pending code (type B failure that hasn't set a light yet)which can help you locate the general area of the problem.

...If you have lower than normal fuel pressure or another problem that causes lean conditions (not enough fuel) then your car may run poorly on cold startup (or sometimes not at all) and then be ok after it warms up.

The computer may not know there is a problem because it doesn't monitor the sensors and systems until it's warm enough (usually the first 30-seconds or before the engine has reached 150 degrees.)

...If you have a bad electrical connection at the ignition switch the car's computer may think you're simply shutting off the car. that's a normal thing to the computer. No check engine light will come on and no code will be set if that's the case.

Check for aftermarket alarm systems installed poorly, inspect all ignition switch wiring closely, and shake under-dash wiring a little and see if it has any bearing on your problem.

Good luck and I hope this helps.

...I repeated a few things and changed the wording a bit to try and give you a few different ways to look at it. Sorry if this sounds redundant but not everyone comprehends everything the same.

[ December 23, 2008, 07:07 AM: Message edited by: bwkelley76 ]
 
Posted by 9svtcobra8 (Member # 8408) on :
 
As stated above... But if you dont have a scanner let me know I have one.
 
Posted by wicked02gt (Member # 6652) on :
 
i have a scanner and already scanned it but no codes show up. i did the cluster check and got this code dtc d262 and dtc 9356. i tried all the things you guys said today in the morning it did the same thing but on the 3rd start up it was fine and ran fine all day.

[ December 23, 2008, 07:47 PM: Message edited by: wicked02gt ]
 
Posted by bwkelley76 (Member # 8792) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by wicked02gt:
i have a scanner and already scanned it but no codes show up. i did the cluster check and got this code dtc d262 and dtc 9356. i tried all the things you guys said today in the morning it did the same thing but on the 3rd start up it was fine and ran fine all day.
I'm not too familiar with the Ford Cluster Check but those codes sound manufacturer specific and some scanners may not retrieve them. They could also be nothing and may not give you any assistance. You wont know until you look em up. I would go to Ford's website and see if they have any info on those numbers. Ford actually has a good database of free information online. We actually used a few of their "Mode 6" descriptions for a class assignment in my Clean Air Car Course at ARC.

Good luck to ya and it definitely sounds like a "cold-start only" type of problem. The easiest way to find out if it's fuel related assuming you are so inclined is to introduce propane to the intake system upon first start-up, (have a buddy help you with this), and see if it runs/starts better.
 
Posted by wicked02gt (Member # 6652) on :
 
whats up guys ive been checking everything out to try and find the problem but no luck. now the car doens even stay on at all.
 
Posted by bwkelley76 (Member # 8792) on :
 
It does fire up but doesn't stay running or doesn't even fire? Definitely sounds like the "run" position of your ignition switch could have a problem? That might be something to look into. Either that or something non-computer related (hard-wiring, etc.) Hard to say exactly though.

I'm off to dinner this evening, I'll let you know if something pops into my head that may help ya.

Good luck
 
Posted by wicked02gt (Member # 6652) on :
 
i checked the igntion wires but theres alot wires ddown there i dont even whats going on down there. the car has remote start that was installed like 2 1/2 years ago tho.
 
Posted by bwkelley76 (Member # 8792) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by wicked02gt:
i checked the igntion wires but theres alot wires ddown there i dont even whats going on down there. the car has remote start that was installed like 2 1/2 years ago tho.
I'll bet there's your problem. Your wiring has been hacked for the remote start. Best thing is to figure out a way to remove it or simply to bypass it and then see if the car works ok. Good luck to ya and Happy holidays.
 
Posted by JohnB (Member # 969) on :
 
Need to check the fuel pressure. My money's on a bad fuel pump. I'll give you a call today...
 
Posted by wicked02gt (Member # 6652) on :
 
sounds good john
 




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