This is topic Need some help in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by Cobraboy (Member # 7826) on :
 
went to start my car and it wouldn't start. i could hear the starter clicking over so i knew that wasn't the problem.

Jumped it, it started right up. Then went to drive it out of the parking lot and the rpm gauge stopped reading and the car started to bog and die out.

So the car will start with a jump... and soon after you take the cables off the battery terminal it starts to die out.

I called a guy i know and got his opinion and he told me that it is probably the alternator based on how it is running and starting up but dies out shortly after the jumper cables are removed.


So i am going to pull the alternator off within the next couple hours and have it checked out. If that isn't the problem i don't know what it is. But let me know what you guys think.
 
Posted by Cobraboy (Member # 7826) on :
 
also, will a mach 1 alternator work mount to my motor? i have a 98 cobra.

if the mach 1 alt would work... i have one i can use.
 
Posted by 93ReefBlue5.0 (Member # 5780) on :
 
the mach 1 alternator will work. just compare pulley diameter... im not sure its the same.

take the alt down to autozone and have it load tested. also, the battery is probly dead as well.. get it charged and tested...
 
Posted by Cobraboy (Member # 7826) on :
 
the pulley diameter wonnt make a difference to me because i have aftermarket pulleys. so i will just pull the stock pulley off the mach 1 alt and bolt my pulley to it. thanks for your help too on the mach alt because i think i will be able to get one for a good price from a buddy of mine

thanks again and anybody else feel free to chime in your 2 cents [patriot]
 
Posted by 93ReefBlue5.0 (Member # 5780) on :
 
all the dohc alternators will bolt up. except for the 03/04 cobras.. so anything off a bullitt, mach or 96-01 cobra will work...

hopefully that fixes it. if not let us know...
 
Posted by Cobraboy (Member # 7826) on :
 
will do. thanks again
 
Posted by turbo50 (Member # 6700) on :
 
Check for shitty connections on your power and ground cables.

Those can be flaky and blow the diodes out in your alternator just like you can do when removing the power cables for the engine while it is running.
 
Posted by Cobraboy (Member # 7826) on :
 
where would i look to check those?
 
Posted by 93ReefBlue5.0 (Member # 5780) on :
 
check on the starter to make sure the cable from the battery is tight. also check the small cable between the 2 posts on the starter...
 
Posted by 92stangLX (Member # 3252) on :
 
Before you replace a bunch of expensive parts I would do a full charging system test and check all connections (ie positive battery cable, grounds, etc)
 
Posted by Cobraboy (Member # 7826) on :
 
i don't think the problem has anything to do with the starter or any of the connections with the battery ect ect... the reason is because it runs perfectly fine if the jumper cables are left on it after i have it jumped but as soon as i remove them the car dies after about 20-30 seconds like it's not getting enought power to the ignition system.

i will still check grounds, but i am betting on the alternator
 
Posted by 93ReefBlue5.0 (Member # 5780) on :
 
brain fart....

haha.. sorry, i was thinking starters because thats what ive been working on in school....
 
Posted by turbo50 (Member # 6700) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Cobraboy:
i don't think the problem has anything to do with the starter or any of the connections with the battery ect ect... the reason is because it runs perfectly fine if the jumper cables are left on it after i have it jumped but as soon as i remove them the car dies after about 20-30 seconds like it's not getting enought power to the ignition system.

i will still check grounds, but i am betting on the alternator
I am 100% sure it is your alternator if the car wont stay running when the power cable to the battery is removed, no arguement there.

But what I am trying to tell you is that some things that can cause the new alternator (or even the old one to fail) to fail prematurely is loose connections, bad grounds and shorted battery cells.

These are things to look at before installing that new alternator only to have it blow the diodes out a week later because you have a flaky power lead or ground somewhere in your charging system.
 
Posted by Cobraboy (Member # 7826) on :
 
yeah i checked everything, all grounds seemed fine. not sure about the battery though... it is charging right now because it was dead. if it holds its charge then i assume it will be ok.

also, i have a new alternator... car runs perfectly once it is started up.

thanks for your input guys really appreciate it [patriot]

i will keep you guys updated if anything else happens or if this alternator takes a shit on me haha
 




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