This is topic Batt relocation kits. in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by Jmir018 (Member # 1414) on :
 
so.. what kits have you guys used and which ones do u recomend? i rather just buy a complete kit that comes with everything needed than piece one myself.
Thanks.
What's needed to make it nhra legal?
thanks.
Jersey

 

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Posted by blind (Member # 3052) on :
 
I made my own, cost about $80 to do.

0/1awg wire from switch to starter
0/1awg fuse holder, 300amp fuse ($30!)

4awg wire from alternator to switch
4awg fuse holder, 150amp fuse (~$15)

0/1awg wire from battery - to quad shock mounting bolt
0/1awg wire from battery + to switch

0/1awg battery terminals

I got the cut-off switch for $2.50 at harbor freight, it physically appears the same as my buddies $50 flaming river switch




(last pic is looking down with the trunk open at the switch hidden behind my license plate, I plan to just pull the plate off at the track.


I like how the engine bay looks now, I can stand in it
 

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Posted by Jmir018 (Member # 1414) on :
 
thanks blind. that engine bay looks great.
.. dirty but great.

anyone else? i'm not really concerned about looks as long as it passes tech inspection at the track
 

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Posted by blind (Member # 3052) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by Jmir018:
thanks blind. that engine bay looks great.
.. dirty but great.

anyone else? i'm not really concerned about looks as long as it passes tech inspection at the track

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pfft, that dirty engine bay just passed smog an hour ago with 0.00 for all the readings except CO% and O2%
 

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Posted by two-gun kid (Member # 5891) on :
 
hey blind did you get the cables from harbor frieght also? and do you know the lengths for all the wires?
 

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Posted by Letsrunem (Member # 6305) on :
 
Isn't it a $100 buck to buy one???
 

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Posted by blind (Member # 3052) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by two-gun kid:
hey blind did you get the cables from harbor frieght also? and do you know the lengths for all the wires?

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no, my buddy (he posts on here) got me most of them and the fuse holders. He runs a car stereo shop (Lethal Audio)

the main long run 0/1awg I actually took out of a wrecked BMW e36 that has a factory trunk battery.

I ordered 25feet of 4awg and I have about 3 or 4 feet left over, you would need that same length for the 0/1awg run from the switch to the starter also, maybe a couple feet less. Then I have a few feet of 0/1awg in the trunk for the ground and from the battery to the switch.
 

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Posted by 1991CHP (Member # 5097) on :
 
This is the one I bought. Comes complete except no remote battery disconnect, but I can post the link to the one I have, it was $17.69 made by HELLA.


http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&Ntt=sum%2Dg1200a&searchinresults=false&N=115
 

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Posted by hockeyguy713 (Member # 5354) on :
 
Taylor aluminum battery box kit.
 

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Posted by 88DroptopGT (Member # 2535) on :
 
Taken from http://www.nhra.com/contacts/tech_faq.html:

I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need?

Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.

I use that Moroso box.
 

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Posted by Dusty122 (Member # 4480) on :
 
this is the 0 ga that blind is running
http://www.cardomain.com/item/STRUF007S
i still have some left and can definitly do a better deal than that. Im in so cal though so id have to ship it.
 

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Posted by 88DroptopGT (Member # 2535) on :
 
You can get any 0/1 gauge wire along with the connectors from any reputable welding shop.

I suggest using welding cable since it can handle the rigors of outdoor use and is much more flexible to bend around your car.
 

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Posted by 166 Merlot (Member # 1549) on :
 
that wiring looks like shit, i like where you put your cut off though, that's slick.
 

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Posted by blind (Member # 3052) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by 166 Merlot:
that wiring looks like shit, i like where you put your cut off though, that's slick.

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are you talking about mine?

sorry I charred the insulation a little when I used a propane torch to solder the ring terminal on
 

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Posted by 166 Merlot (Member # 1549) on :
 
yea oh well
 

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Posted by two-gun kid (Member # 5891) on :
 
fuck it as long as it gets the job done,
Blind can you make a list of the parts to space the L plate out from the body for the switch? i remember some where i rear it was some copper 1/8 pipe sone nuts and bolts.
thanks
 

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Posted by blind (Member # 3052) on :
 
I just went to the hardware store and got a long screw that matched the threads of the stock license plate screws, then got a huge nut that was like 1.25" long that fit over that screw without threading to act as a spacer.
 

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