quote:

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Originally posted by FoX GT:
just checked the intake everything looks good. This sucks cuz i just bought the car last night!

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That has to suck! Did You check it out or test drive it first? Do You know who You bought it off of, or just some stranger? How many miles on the car? I hope it's just a coil pack or something cheap like that. Good luck.
 

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Posted by FoX GT (Member # 4587) on :
 
yeah did the test drive and all that good stuff car just hit 19,000 miles. I really hope its nothing big.
 

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Posted by FoX GT (Member # 4587) on :
 
Think it might be the clutch, car is shaking at idle and when the clutch is relased it starts to make a rattling noise.

anybody know of a good shop that can do this for me or have it looked at around the dublin area, willing to travel but not to much
 

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Posted by blind (Member # 3052) on :
 
with 19k miles I'd take it to a dealer, isnt the warranty until 36k?
 

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Posted by 94gt (Member # 3060) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by blind:
with 19k miles I'd take it to a dealer, isnt the warranty until 36k?

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with those mods? unless he bought it from a dealer... his warranty is gone
 

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Posted by 93PONY (Member # 60) on :
 
Got free towing on your insurance?

Good mechanics are worth the drive.

From your description it doesn't sound good.
Compressin check time!
Was this car tuned correctly?
No 87 octane in it right? I mean, you didn't fill up at a 'one pump wonder' where there's 1 hose for 3 grades of fuel.....because the 3/4 ID fuel hose holds a few gallons of fuel & if the previous customer bought 87.....you got some 87 with your 91.
 

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Posted by 94gt (Member # 3060) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by 93PONY:
No 87 octane in it right? I mean, you didn't fill up at a 'one pump wonder' where there's 1 hose for 3 grades of fuel.....because the 3/4 ID fuel hose holds a few gallons of fuel & if the previous customer bought 87.....you got some 87 with your 91.

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Good advice!

I try and go out of my way to avoid those gas stations
 

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Posted by 92stangLX (Member # 3252) on :
 
I would take it back to the dude you bought it from and ask him "WTF is up with this car!". If you can't get any satisfaction from him then I would swap the exhaust, maf, and pulleys back to stock, remove the boost-a-pump (if you can get a hold of the stock parts) and then take it to the dealer.

They shouldn't be able to tell if the blower is ported or not.

Good luck
 

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Posted by gt40 (Member # 3587) on :
 
Call John Morris a call at Alterspeed in Lathrop.
(209)234-7890
 

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Posted by Apexmotorsports (Member # 5307) on :
 
FoxGT,

Give us a call. We probably have worked on more 03/04 Cobra's than any other shop around and know them very well. Just ask Rick (RixSikCobra) about the job we did diagnosing and fixing his problems.
 

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Posted by 93PONY (Member # 60) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by Apexmotorsports:
We probably have worked on more 03/04 Cobra's than any other shop around and know them very well.

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quote:

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Originally posted by 93PONY:

quote:

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Originally posted by Apexmotorsports:
We probably have worked on more 03/04 Cobra's than any other shop around and know them very well.

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Awefull big "ass"umption there.

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quote:

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Originally posted by Apexmotorsports:
FoxGT,

Give us a call. We probably have worked on more 03/04 Cobra's than any other shop around and know them very well. Just ask Rick (RixSikCobra) about the job we did diagnosing and fixing his problems.

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quote:

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Originally posted by AJBlackGT:

quote:

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Isn't his car now at HCI with a blown motor?

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quote:

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Originally posted by FoX GT:
Think it might be the clutch, car is shaking at idle and when the clutch is relased it starts to make a rattling noise.

anybody know of a good shop that can do this for me or have it looked at around the dublin area, willing to travel but not to much

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quote:

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Originally posted by AJBlackGT:

quote:

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Originally posted by Apexmotorsports:
FoxGT,

Give us a call. We probably have worked on more 03/04 Cobra's than any other shop around and know them very well. Just ask Rick (RixSikCobra) about the job we did diagnosing and fixing his problems.

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Isn't his car now at HCI with a blown motor?

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Nope. Rick called a few time....we helped him diagnose the problem over the phone as best we could. Hopefully he'll get it taken care of.
 

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Posted by bunchmyfunky (Member # 360) on :
 
Take it to HCI
 

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Posted by 93PONY (Member # 60) on :
 
A clutch failure would not shut off the motor at 100mph.
The vibration at idle is most likely not the clutch either. When a disc scatters there's very little weight that's out of balance compared to the 60+lbs of balanced rotating assembly. Typically an out-of-balance situation due to clutch is from a faulty pressure plate from the factory, in which case it would have been out of balance from the begining.
Could have wiped out the pilot bearing, but that's not likely either.

Mike, what is the surface of the 'Apex clutch' on both sides?
Kevlar, cintered iron, organic? Curious because we've pulled more then a few that have eaten up flywheels pretty good & not even been broken in yet (after thousands of miles). Bruce over at moderndriveline also sells those clutchs. He swears by them....& I know they handle power. The current trend in high HP clutches is for Cintered iron on the flywheel side & kevlar on the pressure plate side. Is that what these clutches have?
 

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Posted by autumnstang97 (Member # 6111) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by 93PONY:
Got free towing on your insurance?

Good mechanics are worth the drive.

From your description it doesn't sound good.
Compressin check time!
Was this car tuned correctly?
No 87 octane in it right? I mean, you didn't fill up at a 'one pump wonder' where there's 1 hose for 3 grades of fuel.....because the 3/4 ID fuel hose holds a few gallons of fuel & if the previous customer bought 87.....you got some 87 with your 91.

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quote:

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Originally posted by FoX GT:
I was getting on the freeway and gunned it to about 100 MPH then the car shut down got off on the next exit and truned the car back on. Its started up but now it running very funny. it will gain speed but at about 3000-4000 RPMs it feels like something is holding it back like its not getting eoungh fuel. I have no idea what it could be.

Car has following mods:

stiegmeier stage 3 ported blower
2.9 upper / 4lbs lower
TB
bassani cat back
bassani catted x-pipe
KB boost-a-pump
CAI
SCT mass air
LFP heat exchanger

Does anybody know a good mechanic for these cars because i have no idea what the hell is wrong or does anybody know what could be wrong with it?

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man....hopefully your car is okay..that sure is a long list to bring back to stock if your warranty is intact. some dealers are pretty careful in inspecting the car for any warranty work on an 03/04.
that sure is alot of boost for that eaton..4lb lower+2.9" pulley.
 

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Posted by FoX GT (Member # 4587) on :
 
Well having it towed to newtech today. Hopefully nick can find the problem.

[ November 11, 2005, 03:09 PM: Message edited by: FoX GT ]
 

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Posted by Apexmotorsports (Member # 5307) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by 93PONY:
Mike, what is the surface of the 'Apex clutch' on both sides?
Kevlar, cintered iron, organic? Curious because we've pulled more then a few that have eaten up flywheels pretty good & not even been broken in yet (after thousands of miles). Bruce over at moderndriveline also sells those clutchs. He swears by them....& I know they handle power. The current trend in high HP clutches is for Cintered iron on the flywheel side & kevlar on the pressure plate side. Is that what these clutches have?

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quote:

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Originally posted by 93PONY:
Got free towing on your insurance?

Good mechanics are worth the drive.

From your description it doesn't sound good.
Compressin check time!
Was this car tuned correctly?
No 87 octane in it right? I mean, you didn't fill up at a 'one pump wonder' where there's 1 hose for 3 grades of fuel.....because the 3/4 ID fuel hose holds a few gallons of fuel & if the previous customer bought 87.....you got some 87 with your 91.

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quote:

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Originally posted by Apexmotorsports:

quote:

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Originally posted by 93PONY:
Mike, what is the surface of the 'Apex clutch' on both sides?
Kevlar, cintered iron, organic? Curious because we've pulled more then a few that have eaten up flywheels pretty good & not even been broken in yet (after thousands of miles). Bruce over at moderndriveline also sells those clutchs. He swears by them....& I know they handle power. The current trend in high HP clutches is for Cintered iron on the flywheel side & kevlar on the pressure plate side. Is that what these clutches have?

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Apex Clutches are made on a one by one base and go through a 7 point test before they are shipped. We just don’t make one style of clutch, each is tailored to the car and its requirements… for example if its drag only, road raced, street driven even if it’s a drift car. To sum it all up the Apex clutch is not mass produced, it is serial numbered and built within 2 days of customer order.

As for materials we use 100% true Kevlar, true Kevlar is bright yellow, real Kevlar CANNOT be dyed. Some other clutch makers use Kevlar powder which is mulched up Kevlar and sprinkled in the mix, by doing this the maker can claim that they use Kevlar, but in reality this type of process counter-acts the presence of Kevlar.

As far as metals we use mainly 2 types an "aggressive" and another that is a ferro metallic which is not as aggressive of a hit when the pedal is released, we also have the ability to use sintered iron. With sintered iron or sintered metal, same thing just different names, it is now the hot thing because its a "performance" unit. Sintered iron is used mainly in drag race applications, this resulting in a heavy pedal. In the past we have used sintered iron and had a few issues with longevity and customer complaints on pedal pressure. Although we try to mainly use only two types of metal we also have access to
sintered iron material. Each clutch that is made can be in many configurations- Kevlar on both sides, Kevlar metal or even metal-metal. We also have clutches that have a factory configuration, but still go through our 7 point test, also serial numbered before they leave the door. The factory configuration type clutch exceeds factory specs and is our entry level performance clutch...

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Good info.
What weight pressure plates are you using?
Also, if you would please PM me info on what you can do for HCI price/availability. We'd be interested in the sintered iron/kevlar units with stock stiffness pressure plates (11" both 10 & 26 spline). We currently use Spec 3's left & right....but I'm not satisfied with those clutches. They hit too hard. I personally destroyed a Tremec with a spec 3 due to it hitting the drivetrain too hard. We've been looking for a better alternative. I know Ram & a few others make some nice clutches....Yellow94GT just bought one that NMRA racers use...can't remember what the company was, but the disc was supper cheap at under $200 (compared to RAM & others).
 

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Posted by FoX GT (Member # 4587) on :
 
well just in case you guys wanted to know the motor is bad, no compression in one of the cylinders. This fu*ken sucks!
 

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Posted by Eddie510 (Member # 2354) on :
 
WOW BRO THATS BS< TAKE IT BACK TO THE OWNER BRO OR SOMTHING> WOW! how muh did you pay for it bro< thats hella crzy because when we was talking at my house you were saying you hella wanted one bad> good luck bro>take it back!
 

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Posted by Apexmotorsports (Member # 5307) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by FoX GT:
well just in case you guys wanted to know the motor is bad, no compression in one of the cylinders. This fu*ken sucks!

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quote:

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Originally posted by Apexmotorsports:

quote:

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Originally posted by FoX GT:
well just in case you guys wanted to know the motor is bad, no compression in one of the cylinders. This fu*ken sucks!

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FoxGT,

Give us a call if you would like us to help you out. We have a great relationship with Ford Motorsports and can obtain a factory reman 03/04 Cobra engine for you at a pretty good price. The great thing is we have a 1 year/ 12000 mile warranty from Ford on these engines. Let me know if we can help you out.

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no compression in 1 cylinder to me sounds like a blown headgasket or a dropped valve, that doesn't require a new engine

 

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Posted by 94gt (Member # 3060) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by blind:
no compression in 1 cylinder to me sounds like a blown headgasket or a dropped valve, that doesn't require a new engine

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quote:

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Originally posted by FoX GT:
Well having it towed to newtech today. Hopefully nick can find the problem.

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quote:

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Originally posted by FoX GT:
well just in case you guys wanted to know the motor is bad, no compression in one of the cylinders. This fu*ken sucks!

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maybe I missed something?
looks like he towed it to a shop that gave him that news... I'm sure that they would look at those 2 possibilites b4 trying to sell him a motor.

Apex was just offering a stock 03/04 cobra motor with a warranty... I see NO harm in that.

[ November 12, 2005, 07:46 AM: Message edited by: 94gt ]
 

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Posted by venomous99 (Member # 1917) on :
 
damn...that freakin sux. hopefully the previous owner will work with you but most likely not.
the buyer is always taking a chance in buying a used car from a private party so its always buyer beware.
i wonder if the seller had already known of this problem and was pawning off a bad car to u?
hopefully it works out for you in the end w/out spending too much $$$,.
 

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Posted by 93PONY (Member # 60) on :
 
#7 or #8 cylinders?
Those 2 are the hot cylinders due to the firing order (they fire back to back). Typically if you're running a little lean, or too much timing, one of those 2 cylinders will be the first to go.

If it's one of these cylinders the damange is most likely due to detonation & limited to the piston. In which case your Crankshaft, rods, block, & heads should be fine & there's no real need to replace them. Great time to step up to a better piston. Like .020 overbore CP's, bore/hone the block, new rings/bearings....basically a freshen up w/new pistons. But it's still probably your cheapest option since you won't be replacing the entire rotating assembly. All of the 03/04 cobra motors we've built came to us with piston damage due to detonation....nothing else damaged.

If it's not the #7 or 8 cylinder....you could have other problems. Like a dropped valve (although that typically happens just after initial fire up), or a bad injector driver in the computer..... We've seen it all!
 

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Posted by 91 5.0 5speed (Member # 1867) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by FoX GT:
well just in case you guys wanted to know the motor is bad, no compression in one of the cylinders. This fu*ken sucks!

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quote:

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Originally posted by racercosmo:
Factory reman motor does not mean Ford factory. Most of the "Factory Reman" engines actually come from AER in Texas. From what I've seen of factory reman DOHC motors, I'd settle for no less than assembly line new.

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quote:

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Originally posted by CDT:
now is a good chance to buy an upgraded engine from an actual engine builder like HCI or us.

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quote:

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Originally posted by Apexmotorsports:

How do you know the parts you are using are as spec'd since you did not make them?

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because we measure them. Then if they are not to spec, we send them back, or machine them in house.
 

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Posted by Apexmotorsports (Member # 5307) on :
 
The last thing I have to say about CHP is.. if they are so bad, as you claim, why do they supply pistons for Roush's crate motors, which sell for close to $15,000 and have a 2 year/ 24,000 mile warranty?

[ November 13, 2005, 01:20 AM: Message edited by: Apexmotorsports ]
 

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Posted by CDT (Member # 5004) on :
 
if they are so good, why dont they supply the whole engine?? Anyway to help the person out that posted this, as always do a lot of research and weigh your options, there are a lot out there.
 

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Posted by Apexmotorsports (Member # 5307) on :
 
I am not saying CHP is the best but they do offer an excellent product for the money. And yes... whatever decision the customer decides to make do some research and not just trust what you read or hear. Make sure it is fact.

[ November 13, 2005, 01:29 AM: Message edited by: Apexmotorsports ]
 

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Posted by racercosmo (Member # 1864) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by Apexmotorsports:

quote:

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Originally posted by racercosmo:
Factory reman motor does not mean Ford factory. Most of the "Factory Reman" engines actually come from AER in Texas. From what I've seen of factory reman DOHC motors, I'd settle for no less than assembly line new.

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racercosmo,

You are wrong about the Ford Reman engines we resell. The engines we resell come straight from Ford's warehouse and come with a 1 year, 12000 mile warranty which is valid at ANY Ford dealership. I am sure some reman engines are not very good but we have sold 4 of these units and have not had 1 issue with them.

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quote:

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Originally posted by racercosmo:
So are you now saying that I'm not wrong about the engines you sell? That's what it sounds like.

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We are both right..

#1-Ford may not reman the engines inhouse BUT it does not mean they are low quality. I am sure the suppliers they use are held to very strict guidelines or they would not offer a 1 year 12,000 mile warranty available on all their reman engines through ANY Ford dealer. In fact, Ford doesn't even offer that warranty on BRAND NEW CRATE ENGINEs!

#2-Just because a manufacturer does not do the "actual" manufacturing does not mean they are not the manufacturer. 99% of all manufacturers do NOT have their own factories and contract out with other companies to do it.

So, yes you are probably right to a point and so am I

[ November 14, 2005, 01:28 AM: Message edited by: Apexmotorsports ]
 

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